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jprosise

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Getting Hammered
Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 9:41am

I thought that would get your attention! But really, does anyone know how to get the "hammered" texture on the outside of a vessel? John Jordan uses this technique quite a bit. Do you literally use a hammer and lightly "beat" the piece? I would have a hard time even experimenting with this until I can get some advice. Thanks and a Merry Christmas to everyone!

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Jim Underwood WR Addict Offline It's better to turn than burn... Posts: 648	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #1 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 10:02am I read where a guy was using a scaler (needler) that welders use to remove welding slag. He disassembled the whole thing and rounded off each needle so it would make a nice finish.
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E. Bud Gillaspie WR Addict Offline Where'd I put that round tuit? Posts: 1,182 Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #2 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 10:42am Rule #1: Thin-walled vessels are a no-no. Rule #2: Practice w/various sizes of ballpeen hammers on scrap wood. Rules #3-10: Refer to rule #2. The best method is to "peen" the outside of finish-sanded vessel then turn the inside. Remember, dents are lower than the surface, see rule #1
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jprosise Active Member Offline Posts: 159 Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #3 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 11:55am Thanks guys. I have a needle scaler and it puts more of a pronounced eggshell texture on the piece. I will experiment with the hammer. I did not think an actual hammer was used. I will definately do it before the vessel is turned.
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Jim Underwood

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Re: Getting Hammered
Reply #4 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 12:59pm

I saw an article or something on the use of the needle scaler and it specified how the man did it. I can't lay my hands on it, but after some digging around in the AAW forums, I've come up with a couple of ideas for you...

Some folks use a Dremel tool and a burr.

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I've also liked what some of them did with a burning tool.

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I would also suggest using larger needles in the gun. If the needles are too small, they will, of course, leave smaller marks.

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« Last Edit: Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 1:00pm by Jim Underwood »

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Larry Charlot WR Addict Offline Professional Sawdust Maker Posts: 1,443 Yakima, Washington Washington USA Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #5 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 5:47pm So your telling me only 5,000 hits with a hammer to get that nice dimpled effect?.. Also I'm lost on this pyrography thing, how does this work? Larry
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Woodchip

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Re: Getting Hammered
Reply #6 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 6:14pm

Here's the flip side of the hammering idea. I read about this in a woodcarving book. If you lightly dimple (hammer) the piece and then soak it in water and let it dry, the dimples are supposed to become bumps raised above the surface of the unmarked area. It might make a neat effect. I have not tried it on a carving, simply because I couldn't see a practical use except for maybe carving a toad or something warty and knobby. After reading this thread I think I am going to give it a shot. It might make a neat rim accent or something. If it works I'll post it.

-Tom

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Jim Underwood

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Re: Getting Hammered
Reply #7 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 7:15pm

I'm not sure exactly how they do it Larry, but the general idea is to take a hot iron type thingie (soldering type iron) and use it to burn designs and patterns into the wood. Kinda' smoky I'd guess.

This kind of thing became popular in the 70's or so I think... you'd see those woodburning kits all over the place. Well now some folks have taken it to the next level (like Andi Wolfe). There's probably some high dollar woodburning equipment out there now. Hence the fifty dollar word "pyrography". Wink

It's not an open flame so you have more control over what it looks like.

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Larry Charlot WR Addict Offline Professional Sawdust Maker Posts: 1,443 Yakima, Washington Washington USA Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #8 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 10:09pm The designs look so uniform I thought it was more detailed like some type of machining.
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Ruff

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Re: Getting Hammered
Reply #9 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 10:40pm

You may want to take a look at your local leather craft store. Here we have one called Tandy, they are like a woodcraft. Their website is tandyleather.com. Check on the tabs, called punchs and also the stamps. There you will find metal stamps for patterns to punch on leather. They also work on wood. I have used them before for texturing wood.

Good luck.

Oh, also a lot of the uniform look is done by indexing your peice on the lathe. Some lathes have a built in 8 hole or 16 hole indexer. You can also make on, This allows you to draw accurate lines along a 360 degree item and then do what the art you want.

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« Last Edit: Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 10:43pm by Ruff »

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JimQuarles WR Addict WR Patron Offline WR Rocks, BIG Time! Posts: 13,194 Glendale, AZ Arizona USA Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #10 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 10:58pm Tandy Leather is the company that started Radio Shack. JimQ
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Larry Charlot WR Addict Offline Professional Sawdust Maker Posts: 1,443 Yakima, Washington Washington USA Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #11 - Dec 23^rd, 2005 at 11:12pm Thanks for the info guys I will look into that.
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dreamer Junior Member Offline anyone seen my lathe Posts: 48 Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #12 - Dec 24^th, 2005 at 1:20am I would think that hammering wood would break the fibers causing the grain to lift constantly every time the wood moves
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Ken Grunke

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Re: Getting Hammered
Reply #13 - Dec 24^th, 2005 at 8:07am

I played around with the raised bump idea, there's a name for it but can't remember.
After making the indentation(s), you turn the surface down level with the bottom of the indentations, then they'll raise up above the surface when wetted.
I used letter and number stamps for the experiment, looked kinda neat but they weren't very sharp, the grain was a bit fuzzy on the base surface, and it would have been difficult to sand between the raised areas. Leather design stamps would be a neat thing to try.

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E. Bud Gillaspie WR Addict Offline Where'd I put that round tuit? Posts: 1,182 Gender:	Re: Getting Hammered Reply #14 - Dec 24^th, 2005 at 11:25am I tried leather tooling stamps about 6 mo. ago. They work well on close-grained, hard, woods. The more open the grain the less effective the process. Remember, these tools are made to be used on a more-or-less flat surface; sharply curved surfaces can present a problem w/larger tools.
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