Hi - First, if they are long enough just glue them into a handle. I don't weld so I can't help on that part.  A good starting place for spindle gouge angles would be about 30 - 40 degrees. For bowl gouges you could go anywhere from about 40 - 70 degrees. It seems 60 - 65 degrees is popular for fairly long side ground gouges. 40 degrees seems to be used alot with the shorter side grind. If you get steeper the 60 - 65 degrees I'd use the more traditional grind with the upper portion ground back just a little. I haven't studied tools or grinds, this is just based on some tools I've seen and some grinds I've tried. Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

Here you can find pictures of many different gouge grinds.
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Keith thanks for the angles, Gil thanks for the links the pictures with Keith's angles and what angles on the wood central links will help a lot.  As far as the welding I had better do so more research on that. I have been a welder all my life bad have never had a cause to weld any tool steel.  So if it is possible to welder with a degree of success I can do if possible.  I will check on the possibably of welding and let you all know. Since I have found eariler posts  before I  got stated that questioned the same.  Thanks to all again.  Tony

Thanks alot Gil this is very helpful.  I will go ahead and weld a tang onto the tools now with the info fronm your link. It will require a little guessing now since my temp stick only go to 800 and the way I read the info is to preheat to a 1000.  Temp stick is a chalk (cayron) material that marks on metal until it is applied to the heat range .  I have 500, 600, 700 and 800 sticks. Then is will post heat and bury the tool in flour to control the cooling.  I will do a scraper first since it should have the least amount of force applied to it  I think.  tony

Ken thanks for your thoughts and you might be right .  The only reason for welding in the first place was to have ability to attach to a handle.  The though of expoy to a handle never came to mind eventhough you talked about it in your earlier post.  The pieces I have are in 6 to 8 in pieces.  The thought about a catch is the only reason I haven't welded so far.  As far as the welding goes the place that a break would occur would be at the weld if it was to break.  This is usally caused by imbrittlement at the weld area.  This is caused without proper pre heat, the sudden large amount of heat causing the carbons to scatter away from the point of heat and then without a long period of cooling cycle the carbons return in clusters instead of the equal spaciong that they started at.  I say all of this so that others reading this post don't think that by pre and post heating anyone can weld tool steel, and without speical welding rod for the job.   So I think since I am so new at this turning and catchs are real regular with me I will use your ideas for now.  Thanks again Tony