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System 3 makes a water resistant formulation.  I believe that is what Chris used on his sinks that he made and had some good results with the experiment that he did with it.  Another finish idea that Russ Fairfield discussed with me was to use plexiglass.  Seems it will melt in acetone.  Melt the plexi down to a consistency that will brush out and apply it to the entire piece.  Once you have what you want you can buff it out like anything else.  Third option, a no-finish-finish.  Sand out all marks and then proceed up the grits to 2000.  You should then have a pretty nice glow to the wood.  Burnish with brown paper bag and buff with a stiff horse hair brush.  Folks will not believe that there is nothing on the wood.  The piece will darken and get rougher with use and wiping out with a wet rag, but that is a natural process that all wooden ware will go through with time.  Our modern finishes only postpone the aging process. 

Just some food for thought.  Your mileage will vary.
Rev. Doug Miller

Salad bowl finish will be shiny if you build it up with enough coats.  It soaks into the wood for the first 2-3 coats and actually hardens the surface of the wood.  It will build though.  Cleaning instructions should include that the piece should not be submerged, but wiped out with a soapy, wet rag, rinsed and allowed to air dry completely. 
Rev. Doug Miller

Being new to this section of woodworking where would I find a salad bowl finish?? I was asked last night to make a turning with a knob on either end for making some kind of cookies. I will use the maple that I have here. I see where burnishing would/could be a better option as the final user may not want to re-apply the finish,, or worse yet,,, use an unsafe finish. Is there an applicable food safe paste wax??


OOPS!! I like your cedar bowl!! Heck,, I just like cedar period!!

Any of the common Carnuba bar waxes are food safe if burnished.  Most of the paste waxes are also food safe.

JimQ