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Danish oil (Read 2,839 times)
 
boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #15 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 11:25pm
 
I wouldn't mix more than maybe a qt at a time unless you plan on using quite a bit,as for soaking the blanks in it,you wouldn't accompish anything,as it does not soak into the wood that much.Once you get so much on the wood it wouldn't absorb any more.
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John Frigillana
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #16 - May 1st, 2008 at 4:14pm
 
BOXMAKER, Whats your recipe for the mix, thinner ,linseed oil, and poly? What type of wax can you use after the oiling?

Aloha, John
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« Last Edit: May 1st, 2008 at 4:15pm by John Frigillana »  
 
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #17 - May 1st, 2008 at 4:26pm
 
1/3 thiner
1/3 BLO or Tung oil
1/3 Poly

Any wax will work on top of oil.
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John Frigillana
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #18 - May 2nd, 2008 at 12:31pm
 
SmileyBOXXMAKER, Your  mixture seems easy enough. On the safety side of working, while soaking and preparing the pieces, how do you store the mix. Is it left in an open soaking container or do you cover it like in a bucket with a lid. Whats the flash point of the oil. I work in my garage  in the evenings and weekends and keep the garage door down when I'm away at work. The temp  where I live in Hawaii is moderate, 75+ to 88- degrees. Is there nay danger for spontaneous combustion ? Just want to work safe!

Aloha, John
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« Last Edit: May 2nd, 2008 at 12:32pm by John Frigillana »  
 
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #19 - May 2nd, 2008 at 2:29pm
 
[quote BOXXMAKER, Your  mixture seems easy enough. On the safety side of working, while soaking and preparing the pieces, how do you store the mix. Is it left in an open soaking container or do you cover it like in a bucket with a lid. Whats the flash point of the oil. I work in my garage  in the evenings and weekends and keep the garage door down when I'm away at work. The temp  where I live in Hawaii is moderate, 75+ to 88- degrees. Is there nay danger for spontaneous combustion ? Just want to work safe!

Aloha, John [/quote]

All I keep mine in is an old coffee can.Just keep it out of direct sunlight,don,t set it next to a window where the sun shines directly on it as it will darken,plus start gelling up.As for spontaneous combustion.No danger there,just like I said tust try and keep it in a cool place.Where you have a good chance of that is with old oilly towels,rags.keep them in a metal container untill you can dispose of them proberly.
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John Frigillana
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #20 - May 7th, 2008 at 8:26pm
 
Roll EyesMixed up a batch of your concoction and applied several coats and again with steel wool 0000. Doesn't have the luster . Should I soak it for awhile ,let it sit and wax it later?, I'm working with spalted mango ( mangifera), guava (Psidium Guajava), Lychee (Litchi Chinensis). The guava and the lychee are hard woodsand are redish brown and have a richness to them, the mango is a light wood in color and composition so it soaks up the oil. Don't have any pics right now. Will post some later. Any suggesstions as to finish? I planned on waxing them after several oil coats.
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #21 - May 7th, 2008 at 10:26pm
 
One thing about this mixture is you have to let it set for a while.Here is how I do it,one you don't have to apply it with steel wool  or anything special.I use those old foam brushes,untill they fall apart,or I run out Grin Or old paint brushes,anything you want.Then I set what ever it is aside,whether its a bowl box or whatever for at least a week.I usually get a bunch of work ready,then oil it all up at one time,then for the 1st couple of hrs I will go back and check on it and if there is wet oil still on it,I wipe it down with paper towels.If some look a little dry,I don't worry with them untill I am ready to buff(maybe a week or to)doesn't matter.Depends on what I am doing as to how soon I go back and finish them off.Then I will buff them with 0000 steel wool,then buff with the beal buff compound,course then medium,then wax and I am done.I havn't post any pics for a while,but if I can,I will post some in a few days.Good luck
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