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Danish oil (Read 2,768 times)
 
Dan1908
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Danish oil
Dec 27th, 2007 at 2:20pm
 
Does anyone know where a person could order Danish oil by the five gallon bucket ? an what is the shelf life of the oil ?

Thanks

Dan
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dilligaf4221
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #1 - Dec 27th, 2007 at 11:27pm
 
I have no idea but I've gotta ask.........Why so much  Huh Shocked Huh Shocked
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #2 - Dec 28th, 2007 at 1:07am
 
You can mix your own and for a fraction of the cost and I can guaranty it will give you the same results if not better.I used danish oil for yrs before switching to the home brew.I mix 1 part boiled linseed oil,1 part polyurathane and 1 part paint thinner.I usually mix about a qt at a time and keep it in a can.I have used it after it has set around for several mo's with great results.The only problem that I have with it at times is that it will darken,especially if you put it in a clear jar where the light will get to it.
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #3 - Dec 28th, 2007 at 2:21am
 
@ boxmaker
may I ask what do u use as thinner?

cheers
Martin
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #4 - Dec 28th, 2007 at 2:26am
 
Regular old paint thinner,I use the oil based clear poly.I get it all at local home centers.A gal.of poly last me over a yr.
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« Last Edit: Dec 28th, 2007 at 2:31am by Ken Ward »  
 
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #5 - Dec 28th, 2007 at 8:04am
 
Paint thinner AKA Mineral Spirits
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Dan1908
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #6 - Dec 28th, 2007 at 8:28am
 
I soak and final sand most all my turnings in the oil
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #7 - Jan 6th, 2008 at 11:51am
 
how long do you soak and how many times I have though about soaking greenwood in danish oil to try to control craking and warping for green turning in one setting.
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #8 - Jan 6th, 2008 at 6:45pm
 
Wheels I just slop it on then set it aside for a about 30 min or so then wipe off the access.I have never used it as a sealer for green wood though.
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #9 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 10:36am
 
Boxxmaker...kinda late to the thread, but what do you store your homebrew in? I saw that a clear container will darken it...
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #10 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 1:11pm
 
I just keep it in an old coffee can,but like I said before,I just mix about a qt at a time,because it will darken an set up a little if it sets for a long  time.You can allways mix a lttle more as you go along as it only takes a min or so to mix it up.If I am going to put it on light woods like figured maple then I will mix up a fresh batch and use it before it starts to change.Try to keep it in a cool place if you can as that helps prolong the life of it.
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #11 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 1:33pm
 
I have thought about soaking green turning in danish oil for like 24 to 48 hours at a time then allow to drain and do this several time then allow to dry.  Would it thicken if it was stirred once a week or so?
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #12 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 3:18pm
 
Thanks boxxmaker....wheels4, I've had the same thought before too and now that I have a recipe to make my own for much cheaper than buying I might do it. I think a 5 gallan bucket with a lid would work don't you?
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #13 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 6:07pm
 
I was thinking more like trash can size then wieghting down with a brick or something if your stuff would fit in a 5 gal bucket it would do just fine.  if the stiring and a dark colored contatiner would make it last long enough to justify the cost of large batches .  I was thinking along the lines of lamp shades turned real thin.
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #14 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 9:30pm
 
Ron Kent is one of the innovators of the DO finish method for translucency.  You can read about his techniques here:  Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register.  Scroll down to "Translucent Norfolk Pine" and you can read what Ron says about DO and how he uses it.  Sure ain't how it says on the can.  Beautiful work though.  Hard to argue with that.
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #15 - Apr 15th, 2008 at 11:25pm
 
I wouldn't mix more than maybe a qt at a time unless you plan on using quite a bit,as for soaking the blanks in it,you wouldn't accompish anything,as it does not soak into the wood that much.Once you get so much on the wood it wouldn't absorb any more.
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #16 - May 1st, 2008 at 4:14pm
 
BOXMAKER, Whats your recipe for the mix, thinner ,linseed oil, and poly? What type of wax can you use after the oiling?

Aloha, John
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« Last Edit: May 1st, 2008 at 4:15pm by John Frigillana »  
 
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #17 - May 1st, 2008 at 4:26pm
 
1/3 thiner
1/3 BLO or Tung oil
1/3 Poly

Any wax will work on top of oil.
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John Frigillana
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #18 - May 2nd, 2008 at 12:31pm
 
SmileyBOXXMAKER, Your  mixture seems easy enough. On the safety side of working, while soaking and preparing the pieces, how do you store the mix. Is it left in an open soaking container or do you cover it like in a bucket with a lid. Whats the flash point of the oil. I work in my garage  in the evenings and weekends and keep the garage door down when I'm away at work. The temp  where I live in Hawaii is moderate, 75+ to 88- degrees. Is there nay danger for spontaneous combustion ? Just want to work safe!

Aloha, John
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« Last Edit: May 2nd, 2008 at 12:32pm by John Frigillana »  
 
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #19 - May 2nd, 2008 at 2:29pm
 
[quote BOXXMAKER, Your  mixture seems easy enough. On the safety side of working, while soaking and preparing the pieces, how do you store the mix. Is it left in an open soaking container or do you cover it like in a bucket with a lid. Whats the flash point of the oil. I work in my garage  in the evenings and weekends and keep the garage door down when I'm away at work. The temp  where I live in Hawaii is moderate, 75+ to 88- degrees. Is there nay danger for spontaneous combustion ? Just want to work safe!

Aloha, John [/quote]

All I keep mine in is an old coffee can.Just keep it out of direct sunlight,don,t set it next to a window where the sun shines directly on it as it will darken,plus start gelling up.As for spontaneous combustion.No danger there,just like I said tust try and keep it in a cool place.Where you have a good chance of that is with old oilly towels,rags.keep them in a metal container untill you can dispose of them proberly.
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #20 - May 7th, 2008 at 8:26pm
 
Roll EyesMixed up a batch of your concoction and applied several coats and again with steel wool 0000. Doesn't have the luster . Should I soak it for awhile ,let it sit and wax it later?, I'm working with spalted mango ( mangifera), guava (Psidium Guajava), Lychee (Litchi Chinensis). The guava and the lychee are hard woodsand are redish brown and have a richness to them, the mango is a light wood in color and composition so it soaks up the oil. Don't have any pics right now. Will post some later. Any suggesstions as to finish? I planned on waxing them after several oil coats.
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish oil
Reply #21 - May 7th, 2008 at 10:26pm
 
One thing about this mixture is you have to let it set for a while.Here is how I do it,one you don't have to apply it with steel wool  or anything special.I use those old foam brushes,untill they fall apart,or I run out Grin Or old paint brushes,anything you want.Then I set what ever it is aside,whether its a bowl box or whatever for at least a week.I usually get a bunch of work ready,then oil it all up at one time,then for the 1st couple of hrs I will go back and check on it and if there is wet oil still on it,I wipe it down with paper towels.If some look a little dry,I don't worry with them untill I am ready to buff(maybe a week or to)doesn't matter.Depends on what I am doing as to how soon I go back and finish them off.Then I will buff them with 0000 steel wool,then buff with the beal buff compound,course then medium,then wax and I am done.I havn't post any pics for a while,but if I can,I will post some in a few days.Good luck
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