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Danish Oil - Mixed Results (Read 1,282 times)
 
Jim Van Hooser
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Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Jan 6th, 2008 at 10:37pm
 
Hello All,

I'm using Danish Oil (Watco) for the first time on two pieces.  The first, ambrosia maple, developed a really nice luster and feel after only two applications and a couple days of curing.  The other, western big leaf maple, isn't going as well.  I've applied several coats over the last 10 days and after 48 hours curing the wood still appears unsealed and there isn't any luster.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.
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« Last Edit: Jan 6th, 2008 at 10:40pm by Jim Van Hooser »  
 
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boxxmaker
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #1 - Jan 6th, 2008 at 11:05pm
 
I use a mixture of my own,which is a basically a form of danish oil.I always let it set for at least a week before the finish buff,unless I am puting more than one coat,then I will only wait one day between coats.Buffing with 0000 between coats.Then after the last coat I let it set for at least a week,sometimes longer,just depends on how busy I am it doesn't matter if it sets longer.Then I buff with 0000 steel wool then then beal buff.Hope this helps.
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Glen Shaffer
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #2 - Jan 7th, 2008 at 8:47am
 
FWIW-- On my larger woodworking projects I've found that with oils I need to let the finish flash completely off before buffing. This could take a couple weeks due to the weather. I also only hand buff. Less heat to regenerate the oil. It's more work but worth the effort. I believe those type oil finishes cure a lot slower.

HTH

Cool
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« Last Edit: Jan 7th, 2008 at 8:48am by Glen Shaffer »  
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Rev. Doug Miller
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #3 - Jan 7th, 2008 at 9:48am
 
Jim, a couple of thoughts.  One, your piece could be dryer and in need of more oil to soak in so that the pores are full.  Try saturating the piece with the finish, brushing on oil to the point of run-off and applying more as the "dry" spots appear or if you have the ability literally soak the piece, for a full twenty minutes.  Then wipe off all the excess and allow it to dry.  You should begin to see areas of "shine" within two or three coats.  Complete sheen will depend upon the porosity of the wood and how dry it is.  Hope this rambling helps.
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Jim Van Hooser
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #4 - Jan 7th, 2008 at 4:39pm
 
Thanks to all for the feedback!  I'm off to try your methods. 

I'm just puzzled as to why it worked so well on one and not the other.

Jim
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #5 - Jan 7th, 2008 at 6:08pm
 
Could be as simple as a different piece of wood that has reacted differently than the other.  Sorry to be so vague.
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #6 - Jan 7th, 2008 at 8:39pm
 
When all else fails try reading the directions on the can.  Huh works everytime for me.  Smiley

The same can be said for wipe-on poly & antique oil.
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #7 - Jan 7th, 2008 at 8:49pm
 
Another reason could be the age of the wood.I have a bunch of big leaf maple that is really old and dry and it soaked up the oil up like a sponge before finally getting enough in the woodwhere I could start buffing.Where as I have some that is much fresher that I can apply one coat,let dry then buff.Still tryin to help.  Smiley
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Jim Van Hooser
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #8 - Jan 7th, 2008 at 10:53pm
 
Thank you, boxxmaker.  I'm starting to think that's the case with this piece.  I'm new with oil finishes and I guess I'm just surprised at how much a little bowl can absorb. 

Thanks for the follow-up.
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #9 - Feb 22nd, 2008 at 7:56am
 
I only use Danish oil on Walnut. 5 coats over five days wet sanding (on lathe) in each coat with 400 or 600 paper and wipe dry as possible with paper towel.
On 6th coat I do not wipe very dry and leave till next day when I remount on lathe and buff with 0000 steel wool and Ren. wax. Works for me.
As for all other woods, I have came down to using Minwax Wipe on Poly and cut back the final coat after it drys for 5 days with 0000 steel wool.
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #10 - Feb 22nd, 2008 at 10:26am
 
I haven't used oils much but I would have to say that finishes really depend on the wood. My example is: The Manzanita that I did only took 4 or 5 coats of wipe on poly and it was done. I currently have a maple burl that I have been finishing for the last 2 weeks, 2 coats of sanding sealer, 3 coats full strength poly, and 8 coats of wipe on poly. I think 1 more will do the trick.
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #11 - Feb 22nd, 2008 at 4:24pm
 
I have often thought too 'one more coat will do' Grin
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #12 - Feb 25th, 2008 at 9:48pm
 
Different varieties of Maple will have different characteristics, including porosity.  In fact, I've worked with Maple that had inconsistent porosity characteristics throughout a single piece. Some of the folks I've talked to about it actually use a pre-sealer before applying finish to ensure that the finish penetrates more evenly.  In my experience, Maple doesn't like stain.  OK, perhaps some varieties of Maple will take stain  -  but I haven't found one that I was satisfied with for a stain finish.  I prefer a water based polyurethane for Maple but some oil based polys make a nice finish (Minwax Wipe On Poly) although they do tend to yellow the wood as they cure.
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« Last Edit: Feb 25th, 2008 at 9:50pm by N/A »  
 
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Re: Danish Oil - Mixed Results
Reply #13 - Feb 26th, 2008 at 6:21am
 
Ken Ward wrote on Jan 6th, 2008 at 11:05pm:
I use a mixture of my own,which is a basically a form of danish oil.I always let it set for at least a week before the finish buff,unless I am puting more than one coat,then I will only wait one day between coats.Buffing with 0000 between coats.Then after the last coat I let it set for at least a week,sometimes longer,just depends on how busy I am it doesn't matter if it sets longer.Then I buff with 0000 steel wool then then beal buff.Hope this helps.


Can you share your recipe with me if you do not mind?
Toni
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