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Heat Transfer Technique (Read 4,588 times)
 
Leo Frilot
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #30 - Jun 29th, 2008 at 9:26pm
 
No problem Ken. I'm a firm believer in learning something new everyday.

Ken Grunke wrote on Jun 29th, 2008 at 9:23pm:
BTW Leo, thanks for posting this technique, it has opened up a whole new realm for surface decoration of turnings!

I guess that means I'm not all BS after all. Roll Eyes
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« Last Edit: Jun 29th, 2008 at 9:28pm by Leo Frilot »  

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Ron Sardo
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #31 - Jun 29th, 2008 at 9:52pm
 
Ken, after dabbing on the fluid.

Most color lasers and copiers run at a higher temperature than B&W lasers and copiers. That fixes the toner onto the paper better making it more difficult for the toner to be released form the paper. So far I only get bleached out images.  I have a couple of other chemicals I want to try out, one of them is stripper. 

I do want to add a word of caution, some of these chemical that can release toner from paper can be very dangerous, both health wise and as a fire hazard. They should not only be used in a well ventilated area and proper precautions, but also with common sense.

Be careful!
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« Last Edit: Jun 29th, 2008 at 9:56pm by Ron Sardo »  

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Stuart Ablett
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #32 - Jun 30th, 2008 at 7:10am
 
Hey, this looks like a great tip, I'd love to give it a try, and I have two perfect projects for this.

First is my parents upcoming 50th wedding anniversary, I'd love to make them something nice, but be able to put nice text on it.

Second, I have a customer, the Shinto shrine that I get most of my free wood from, they asked me before if I could make them up a bunch of key fobs from some of the wood that I got, they would gladly pay for them. This technique could make that very possible, the head priest does really nice calligraphy, and could write the name of the shrine, I could photocopy it or scan it and print it on our laser printer, as well as resize it for the keyfobs!

Is there anything really "Special" about this tool, besides the flat round "Iron" on the end of it, is this just a "Soldering Iron"? I have an extra soldering iron, I could make up an "iron" fairly simply. I'd happily buy the tool, but shipping cost and time are against that idea, I'm going to Canada on July 13th..........

Please let me know what you think.

Cheers!
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #33 - Jun 30th, 2008 at 7:17am
 
Nothing special

I even used a clothing iron
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Stuart Ablett
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #34 - Jun 30th, 2008 at 7:32am
 
Thanks Ron!

The chances of me finding any of the chemicals you mention, and then being able to BUY it, well they are slim to none Undecided

Took me nearly two years to get hold of some real DNA! Tongue

Cheers!
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #35 - Jun 30th, 2008 at 8:46am
 
The only two tricks needed is to have the wood as smooth as possible and to have a heat source hot enough to melt the toner but not hot enough to scorch the wood.

Oh and one more: don't move the paper until you are done.

You know... if you built yourself a still... you can make your own "DNA". 
But then you probably already know that.
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Stuart Ablett
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #36 - Jun 30th, 2008 at 1:24pm
 
Well the heat thing was not working out, the soldering iron I have does NOT have a removable tip Angry

So I tried the nastiest stuff I have in the shop, Lacquer thinner and it worked fairly well, right off the bat!

See the attached pic  Smiley
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Ken Grunke
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Re: Heat Transfer Technique
Reply #37 - Jun 30th, 2008 at 5:22pm
 
Ron Sardo wrote on Jun 29th, 2008 at 9:52pm:
Ken, after dabbing on the fluid.

Thanks Ron, I'll try that.

Stu, if you have a piece of aluminum, brass, or copper 1/16" to 1/8" thick and just big enough to put over the paper, you can heat that up with your iron. That's how I first tried it. But the chemical transfer method is better in my opinion, and it looks like it worked great for you.
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« Last Edit: Jun 30th, 2008 at 5:24pm by Ken Grunke »  

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