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Ebonizing wood (Read 2,222 times)
 
John Frigillana
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Ebonizing wood
Jun 5th, 2008 at 2:25pm
 
UndecidedAny suggesstions in ebonizing wood? Around the woods suggest steel wool and vinegar soak, anyone tried this method?
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Paul Zerjay
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #1 - Jun 5th, 2008 at 2:44pm
 
Look under finishing
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Rev. Doug Miller
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #2 - Jun 5th, 2008 at 11:37pm
 
Steel wool soaked in vinegar for a few days is the best that I know about.  Works with the tannins in the wood.
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« Last Edit: Jun 5th, 2008 at 11:37pm by Rev. Doug Miller »  

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Stuart Ablett
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #3 - Jun 6th, 2008 at 7:50am
 
I use the Japanese "Fude Pen" (say Foo-Day) This is a pen that has a paint brush like tip, the "Ink" in the pen is ground up super fine charcoal and water. It is black, black, black.

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I sand to #400, then I seal it with sanding sealer,  sand to #400 again, then seal it again. Once I have a good smooth coat on the wood, I color it with the Fude pen, let it dry, and then hit it again, let it dry. Buff off any charcoal bits that have not stuck. Next, I speed it up to about 1800 RPM and use the turners Carnauba wax, and then buff it well.

The pieces come out like black glass  Smiley

Next time I do one, I'll try to get some pictures.

Cheers!
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Rev. Doug Miller
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #4 - Jun 6th, 2008 at 8:11am
 
Another solution to this issue is to use indian ink.  You can still buy it at most office supply stores.  Sand the piece really smooth, use a small brush to apply the ink, let dry.  You may want to lightly sand after with 400 or 600 grit just to knock down any fuzzies that might be raised.  Apply finish and you're done.
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thostorey
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #5 - Jun 8th, 2008 at 1:40am
 
I did the vinegar/metal/salt = rust and it took a few months to brew the rust solution. I tried it out on an oak bowl and I could not believe the chemical reaction, right before my eyes Shocked Instant ebony! Works on maple as well.
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Norbert Dupas
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #6 - Jun 8th, 2008 at 10:36am
 
Do you have a photo of the piece you Ebonized?  I would like to see the results.

...Bertthostorey wrote on Jun 8th, 2008 at 1:40am:
I did the vinegar/metal/salt = rust and it took a few months to brew the rust solution. I tried it out on an oak bowl and I could not believe the chemical reaction, right before my eyes Shocked Instant ebony! Works on maple as well.

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...Bert

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Ron Sardo
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #7 - Jun 8th, 2008 at 12:28pm
 
Stuart Ablett wrote on Jun 6th, 2008 at 7:50am:
the "Ink" in the pen is ground up super fine charcoal and water. It is black, black, black.


Once upon a time the best printer's ink was made from coal soot.

Environmentalists threw a hissy fit and it is no longer on the market.
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Stuart Ablett
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #8 - Jun 9th, 2008 at 11:26am
 
Just curious, but steel wool is NOT in any local stores that I can find here, I guess it is not commonly used for much any more ?

I do have some "SOS" pads, but they are full of detergent, I guess I can try rinsing one or two of them out and see if I can rid them of the detergent.......

What kind of a mix are you guys recommending?

Also, "thostorey" mentioned that he added "Salt" to the mix, is that common? If so, how much and what kind of salt, sea salt, table salt.........?

Thanks Smiley
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #9 - Jun 9th, 2008 at 11:50am
 
Stuart Ablett wrote on Jun 9th, 2008 at 11:26am:
Just curious, but steel wool is NOT in any local stores that I can find here, I guess it is not commonly used for much any more ?

Use rusty nails... just takes longer for the brew to get to full strength. Steel wool would take a few days, rusty nails a few weeks

Quote:
What kind of a mix are you guys recommending?

Mix? You mean ratio?  I never measured, I just add steel wool and vinegar. Once in a while I add a little more of either one when the jar get low.  I've been using the same jar now for maybe 8 years, maybe more. Now that I'm thinking of it, I'm going to add a few nails in my jar.


Quote:
Also, "thostorey" mentioned that he added "Salt" to the mix, is that common? If so, how much and what kind of salt, sea salt, table salt.........?

Just a dash of salt and pepper should work fine, and a little oregano might be nice too.

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« Last Edit: Jun 9th, 2008 at 11:52am by Ron Sardo »  

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thostorey
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #10 - Jun 9th, 2008 at 3:13pm
 
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Here is the one I 'ebonized' with vinegar. Looks more brown in the photo than it really does in life.

Tom
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George Carrigan
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #11 - Jun 10th, 2008 at 9:51am
 
I've been using leather dye. I goes on real easy and dries almost instantly. You can get it a any Tandy Leather store or on  line. George
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Ric Rountree
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #12 - Jun 10th, 2008 at 11:08am
 
George Carrigan wrote on Jun 10th, 2008 at 9:51am:
I've been using leather dye. I goes on real easy and dries almost instantly. You can get it a any Tandy Leather store or on  line. George


Leather dye sounds interesting.  What kind of finish do you apply over it?
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George Carrigan
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #13 - Jun 10th, 2008 at 12:05pm
 
I haven't tried finishing with anything yet. When doing a black hollow form you want the surface to be flat so that the viewer is looking strictly at the form and not at the wood or the finish. I've only buffed the surface by hand but I may try using the Beal buffer without the Carnuba. George
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Re: Ebonizing wood
Reply #14 - Jun 10th, 2008 at 8:56pm
 
George Carrigan wrote on Jun 10th, 2008 at 12:05pm:
I haven't tried finishing with anything yet. When doing a black hollow form you want the surface to be flat so that the viewer is looking strictly at the form and not at the wood or the finish. I've only buffed the surface by hand but I may try using the Beal buffer without the Carnuba. George


I was thinking of using it to ebonize smaller pieces like finials and stands and was wondering if it needed a top coat of some kind.
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Roundwood
 
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