I let them dry before returning and sanding, the few that I've done wet.

thanks guys. Bill if i let the bowl dry for a bit does is matter what i put on it ? You mentioned poly can the bowl be 2 wet for for it or will it work its way in no mater what? 

I rough turn all my work, NE or not, and return them after dried. I just find everything works better that way, for me at least.
There are MANY different ways and opinions about drying techniques and the same about turning to final thickness and letting them warp.
I prefer the 'roughing em out and let em dry' way.

Like Bill indicated, wet wood will not sand as well as dried wood without some sort of stiffening.
If you do rough turn it, leave it a little thicker, to account for warping. I think the standard formula is 10% - 15% of final diameter. So a 10" diameter bowl should be left about 1" thick. I don't hold too much to formulas and tend to go with what feels right. But its a good guideline.

Try a couple of different ways and eventually you will settle on what will become your technique!

Makes sure to secure your bark if you want it on. Either superglue it on or flood it with a stiffening finish, oil won't work. If you don't secure the bark it may warp off or fly off when you finish turning it.

Kris -- the water based urethanes seem to be pretty tolerant of the moisture content vs oil based.   General Finishes Enduro sanding sealer works for me and Enduro is one of the harder waterbased finishes (that is why I have it and I tend to use what I have available on the shelf).

In my turning class with Mike Mahoney we did several NE bowls.  Mike advocates sanding to 320 and when dry he uses spray lacquer, gloss.

Walt

The second section on this page shows how Paul Porter mounts natural edge hollow forms to finish the bottom.

Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or

Not related to the subject, but the third section shows how he mounts billiard balls to turn them into boxes.