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Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl (Read 1,712 times)
 
Kris E. Karlson
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Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Apr 14th, 2010 at 8:17am
 
Ok Ive decided to try to do s natural edge bowl. What i am stuck on is , do you sand it when green and then let dry? let it dry and then jam chuck and round it out or is there a combination of the 2 that i am not getting. I searched woodturners and cant find anything on it( that may be user error)  I also watched some u tube stuff but nothing i have watched talks about seasoning and or how to complete the bowl if its wet.  Sad
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Frank Van Atta
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #1 - Apr 14th, 2010 at 9:39am
 
I let them dry before returning and sanding, the few that I've done wet.
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Bill Bolen
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #2 - Apr 14th, 2010 at 11:23am
 
On my NE's once it is turned I go ahead and finish it all the way. If it is still a bit to wet to sand I leave it in the chuck and just set it on the bench for a week or so. Being thin it will dry out enough to sand within a few days. Once dryed a bit I can then return to the lathe and finish sand. Usually it has warped a bit and is no longer round. That is ok, the lathe just makes a nice holding fixture while I power sand. When using a surface finish like poly I also make sure to hid the bark hard with the finish. I feel as if the finish adds a bit of strength to the bark and keeps any loose pieces from falling off...Bill..
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« Last Edit: Apr 14th, 2010 at 11:24am by Bill Bolen »  

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Kris E. Karlson
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #3 - Apr 14th, 2010 at 11:56am
 
thanks guys. Bill if i let the bowl dry for a bit does is matter what i put on it ? You mentioned poly can the bowl be 2 wet for for it or will it work its way in no mater what?  smiley=dankk2.gif
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Bill Bolen
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #4 - Apr 16th, 2010 at 6:35pm
 
I don't think a little moisture will hurt much. Could slow down the drying process for the poly. Might even be sticky for a day or so.
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TomTunget
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #5 - Apr 17th, 2010 at 11:45am
 
I rough turn all my work, NE or not, and return them after dried. I just find everything works better that way, for me at least.
There are MANY different ways and opinions about drying techniques and the same about turning to final thickness and letting them warp.
I prefer the 'roughing em out and let em dry' way.

Like Bill indicated, wet wood will not sand as well as dried wood without some sort of stiffening.
If you do rough turn it, leave it a little thicker, to account for warping. I think the standard formula is 10% - 15% of final diameter. So a 10" diameter bowl should be left about 1" thick. I don't hold too much to formulas and tend to go with what feels right. But its a good guideline.

Try a couple of different ways and eventually you will settle on what will become your technique! Wink

Makes sure to secure your bark if you want it on. Either superglue it on or flood it with a stiffening finish, oil won't work. If you don't secure the bark it may warp off or fly off when you finish turning it.
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Kris E. Karlson
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #6 - Apr 19th, 2010 at 8:13am
 
Thanks guys I will try both. Smiley
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #7 - Apr 19th, 2010 at 8:50am
 
Kris -- the water based urethanes seem to be pretty tolerant of the moisture content vs oil based.   General Finishes Enduro sanding sealer works for me and Enduro is one of the harder waterbased finishes (that is why I have it and I tend to use what I have available on the shelf).
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #8 - May 7th, 2010 at 8:21am
 
A reasonably quick way to dry your bowl is to rough turn it, place in a plastic bag and freeze it for 3+ days, remove it from the freezer and the bag and put it in the domestic fridge, upside down for about 10 days. Then it should be dry enough to finish without any warping or checking. Not perfect on all timbers, very hard ones are the worst.
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #9 - May 23rd, 2010 at 10:57am
 
In my turning class with Mike Mahoney we did several NE bowls.  Mike advocates sanding to 320 and when dry he uses spray lacquer, gloss.

Walt
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #10 - May 25th, 2010 at 11:36am
 
I thought I would add to this;
If you do return the bowl to the lathe after it has warped, you need to use a very low speed.
Some lathes can only get down to 450 RPM and this is too fast for sanding. If your lathe won't go slower than that, use a power sander and rotate the bowl/turning by hand to prevent flat spots.
Faster speeds burnish the wood making it harder and thus harder to sand. If your paper is getting hot then your speed is too high, whether it is lathe speed or sander speed.
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Re: Finishing a Natural Edge Bowl
Reply #11 - May 25th, 2010 at 1:42pm
 
The second section on this page shows how Paul Porter mounts natural edge hollow forms to finish the bottom.

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Not related to the subject, but the third section shows how he mounts billiard balls to turn them into boxes.

JimQuarles
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