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A NEW Challenge & Trade (Read 20,070 times)
 
Vaughn McMillan
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #30 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 4:49am
 
Aw, what the heck. I'm in.  smiley=thumbsup.gif  I'll have to see if I can turn one of them natural edge thingys.  Grin

BTW, Erika, if your mini lathe is like mine, you may well be right. It might not have the power to do it. (Mine is 1/5 hp and variable speed, which means it has about as much torque as a wet Kleenex.) Maybe we could arrange for you to try one on my Big Girl lathe.  Wink
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« Last Edit: Jul 11th, 2011 at 4:52am by Vaughn McMillan »  
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Robert Harper
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #31 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 6:12am
 
I'm in. I've done a few of these over the last year. For those who are just starting out, some tips I've learned.

Hard rule #1, nothing. except the tool, goes past the tool rest. This keeps those valuable digits and other body parts where they belong.

Use very light cuts with very sharp tools. I prefer using my spindle gouge or a good bowl gouge. I think if it as a shaving lesson. Since you are cutting lots of air, hold the tool very steady and don't plunge it into the wood like when you make a bowl. Just hold the tool steady and see how light you can cut. This also reduces tear out. Sanding these things is more painful than almost any other piece.

Start at the outside and work your way in. Once you have the outer edge done, move on. You can't really go back and clean things up later. The wood will change shape and there will be less there to support it. This will really teach tool control.

Take your time and work slowly.
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Vaughn McMillan
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #32 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 8:39am
 
To add to Robert's excellent tips, I like to turn things like this in the dark.  Shocked 

I find it's easier to see the "ghost" image of the wood when the shop lights are turned off and I'm only using a single 100w task light at the lathe. It's not really dark, but it's kind of strange turning in a darkened shop. It really helps me see what I'm cutting, though.
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« Last Edit: Jul 11th, 2011 at 8:39am by Vaughn McMillan »  
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Rev. Doug Miller
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #33 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 8:52am
 
I agree with Robert's idea to cut lightly.  But, wouldn't you guys who have done a lot more of these than I have agree that lathe speed is your friend?  My experience and what I remember from those who have specialized in this kind of turning is that the faster the wood is spinning, the easier it is to stay on the wood and not drop down between the wings.  Sounds crazy as that prop gets to whirring, but it really does make the turning much smoother.
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Carrie Bradfield
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #34 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 8:52am
 
Oooh, I love a challenge.  I'm in!  I just picked up some random logs a week or two ago, so hopefully one of them will work for this!
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TomTunget
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #35 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 10:50am
 
Rev. Doug Miller wrote on Jul 11th, 2011 at 8:52am:
But, wouldn't you guys who have done a lot more of these than I have agree that lathe speed is your friend? 

Yes. I think I read some place that at about 1700 rpm that the wood basically becomes solid.
When shaping the outside which you do first,  you don't need to worry too much about going over some previous cuts.
On the inside I usually hollow down to about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thickness and then go back for my final cuts.
This is the area when you get thin that you have to be very careful about completing every step.
You want to make sure you establish the correct thickness for the entire piece as you go down and once you move past that point don't go back.

I hope we see some really interesting new shapes.

After reading my post I realized I have to add that those thicknesses mentioned above are for a piece about 8 inches in diameter not for a larger piece.
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« Last Edit: Jul 11th, 2011 at 12:40pm by TomTunget »  

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Robert Harper
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #36 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 11:18am
 
Rev. you're right. Increasing the speed helps but it also flexes the wood more. This puts a premium on working from the outside to the inside and make sure that you don't have to go back because as you remove material from the outside, there is less support and more flex. If you end up with a tool mark, you're better off sanding it out than trying to clean it up at the end like you would with a normal bowl.

I usually spin these as fast as I can and keep the vibration low. If you want to sand on the lathe, go to HF and pick up some of those large hemostats for cheep. Clamp the sand paper in the jaws and use that to sand. DO NOT leave your fingers in the rings. Hold them by the shaft with the rings in your hand. That way if you get a catch with the tool, you can let go.
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Kevin Stanbary
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #37 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 12:50pm
 
I'd really like to try this but I've been having difficulty finding shop time lately.  Not going to commit, but if I can find some shop time, I'll try to make one.
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TomTunget
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #38 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 1:03pm
 
As a rule of thumb, when making these type of Natural Edge pieces;

For Bowls using an entire log or branch section, i.e. not half a log;
  • If your diameter of the piece is the width of the log, the edge will dip halfway into the bowl.
  • Increasing the diameter means a larger dip into the bowl and more flexing.

For a flatter bottom and more of a canoe shape;
  • Diameter should be 1 1/2 to 2 or 3 times width of log.
I experimented with a few of these types during our turning get together here. Rolling the lip in, makes an interesting shape...
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leo Makepeace
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #39 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 3:32pm
 
Been waiting for a new C&T Smiley. but oops, this is a goodun. Smiley Not easy..... Smiley

Count me in please.

Leo
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Leo Frilot
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #40 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 9:10pm
 
Yep, count me in.  Been wanting to try one, and this gives me an excuse to do it.
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Tim Crews
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #41 - Jul 11th, 2011 at 10:11pm
 
I'm sort of new, but I've made a couple of these already, so I'm in.
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Vaughn McMillan
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #42 - Jul 12th, 2011 at 2:12am
 
I agree that speed is your friend on these, with the caveat that the higher the speed, the more chance for a catastrophic failure. I had a tenon break on one this evening at about 1200 rpm (pretty soft wood, and I probably got a little too aggressive with the cut...I was cutting near the center). At that speed, things can fly fast and far. I was out of the line of fire, so no blood no foul. I did have to go to the other side of the shop to pick up the remains, though.

And it goes without saying...always wear full face protection.  Wink
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Rev. Doug Miller
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #43 - Jul 12th, 2011 at 7:13am
 
Hey Jim, what is the number up to now?
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Re: A NEW Chanenge & Trade
Reply #44 - Jul 12th, 2011 at 8:40am
 
Vaughn,

+1 on that. Evidently there was a crack or fault in the limb I was trying to turn, I cleared off almost to it from the bottom and then changed over with a expansion hold from the chuck.
Worked my way down to an almost finished thickness and all of a sudden Pow pieces all over the shop. It came apart in 4 pieces and with 2K revs they spread fast, I was working from the tail stock end and only caught a ricochet from the ceiling.

I have two more possible branched to check out.
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