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Gorilla Glue (Read 4,493 times)
 
Bert Delisle
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #15 - Jan 8th, 2012 at 11:15am
 
I agree with the comments about the glue is hard to work with for some projects but it does has a niche for tough loose fits.
I used to use it for the waterproof capabilty but now that  Titebond III has been fomulated to do wateproof work and it is so much easier to use.
Titebond III my new best friend. smiley=thumbsup.gif
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« Last Edit: Jan 8th, 2012 at 11:17am by Bert Delisle »  
 
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Joseph Schlawin
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #16 - Jan 14th, 2012 at 6:50pm
 
I made a bent wood rocker and after soaking the pieces in water, I slathered on the Gorilla glue and got it all clamped in the form.  It was a mess on the hands but PVA would not have worked on the wet wood.  IT certainly has its place.  I also use it to glue tooling into handles.  Bonds to everything.
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #17 - Jan 14th, 2012 at 7:05pm
 
I used to make and sell bent wood clocks, yellow glue worked fine for me.
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Glen Shaffer
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #18 - Jan 16th, 2012 at 9:09am
 
Gorilla glue for ALMOST all of my pen tubes. I use Epoxy on the inlay kits. I don't know if the GG will push the inlays out or not & I'm never in the mood to find out.  smiley=lolk.gif
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Tim Hyatt
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #19 - Oct 12th, 2012 at 10:52am
 
I haven't tried it for my cabinetry work at all, only place i've used it was for repair of existing furniture.  does a pretty good job in that regard...(though as someone else said, it does require some cleanup...)   but once it's cured, it's VERY stable...
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Mike Sharpe
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #20 - Oct 16th, 2012 at 10:01pm
 
Gorilla Glue is all I use for gluing the brass tubes inside pen blanks.  Yes it expands, but the Pen Mill removes the glue from the opening and end of the blank, so it is not a problem.
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #21 - Oct 17th, 2012 at 9:44am
 
My vote for all flat work or serious wood gluing boards into a block for turning is titebond III. It is the best glue I have ever used and I have been doing flatwork for many years. Gorilla glue is not even in the same category IMHO
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #22 - Oct 17th, 2012 at 2:23pm
 
I remember one time I test gluing some biscuits into expensive quartersawn oak plywood and when the glue dried I could feel a bump. The impression of the biscuit and the glue telescoped right to the top.

That was the last time I used Gorilla Glue.
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« Last Edit: Oct 17th, 2012 at 2:23pm by Ron Sardo »  

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Michael DeWald
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #23 - Oct 25th, 2012 at 11:17pm
 
Telescoping biscuits can happen with virtually any type of glue that soaks into and expands the biscuit. They are compressed wood, and expansion of them is a "design feature." Many wood workers will not use them anymore. They are somewhat useful for alignment, but it has also been shown that they often do virtually nothing to improve joint strength. At this point, I avoid using them.
As far as Gorilla glue (referring to polyurethane glues) goes, it has it's place. It does bond dissimilar substances pretty well, and until Titebond III came along, it was the waterproof choice.
A lot of us saw the foaming/expansion as a remedy for gappy joints, and I believe this was once part of the marketing strategy. Then strength testing was done, and it was shown that the foaming caused serious strength issues when joints were not tight fitting. The best gap filling glue is good old epoxy. As a matter of fact, epoxy has a great number of virtues, but it is harder to work with, requires some care in mixing, and has way too short an open time when assembling anything complicated. But it is a great problem fixer.
In summary, when I have a good fit, Titebond III is my choice, not only for it's waterproof quality, but for a longer working time and superior strength. Epoxy is for problem solving. Polyurethane I avoid, because of questions on strength, foaming, making a stained mess of my hands, and the fact that I inevitably end up throwing half of it out because of it's limited shelf life. I'm kinda surprised it's still a big seller, as its advantages and uses are limited, at least in woodworking.
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #24 - Nov 2nd, 2012 at 11:57am
 
Gorilla glue is good for marine plywood and boats.  Rebuilt inflatable transom and floor boards and it eas near perfect.
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Scott glass
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #25 - Nov 2nd, 2012 at 4:57pm
 
I too hate gorilla glue, I wanted tight bond and the store was out so I bought gorilla glue based on the salesman's suggestion. He swore it was great. I found it hard to use and the wood joints did not hold in the long run. I had to take apart the joints clean and re glue them. I also use a lot of ca glue, but gorilla glue is not for me.
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Rev. Doug Miller
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #26 - Nov 9th, 2012 at 12:26am
 
Gorilla glue has its place.  Use it where it doesn't belong and you have a mess, at best.  But use it where it is called for and you have a glue joint that no other glue can out perform.  This is how it is with nearly every glue.  Some are just a bit more restricted as to where to use them than others. 
Cool
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #27 - Dec 2nd, 2014 at 10:57pm
 
I am a fan of the GG. But like some of you have said it has its place. Tite bond III is my go to now.
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Richard Wilabee
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #28 - Dec 8th, 2014 at 3:14pm
 
I prefer 15 Minute epoxy.  It doesn't get a brittle as 5 minute and sure holds better.  I have never had a tube come lose during turning.

Rich
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Tom Coghill
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Re: Gorilla Glue
Reply #29 - Dec 8th, 2014 at 5:31pm
 
If used correctly, I like it.  I needed something adhesive to fill an imperfect recess and to adhere to metal and wood.  I used the expanding gorilla glue effectively, however I was right there to wipe off the extra, and then after it fully expanded and it was wiped level (or a bit less than level) I added wood dust to the surface and it turned out perfect.

Like I say, I rarely need its properties, however when I do, I can get it to work.

95 times out of 100, I use regular colored wood glue (Titebond II or III). Thumbs Up

Tom
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