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Tips on signing my work (Read 968 times)
Breck Whitworth
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Tips on signing my work
03/09/12 at 05:21:55
 
I need some tips on how to sign my work, hearing from others is a great way for me to learn of the different techniques out there. (I have been engraving my name) I went to a local turners meeting the other day and someone mentioned an ink pen that won't dissolve under your finish. Where do you get these and what are they called (pros & cons) to using ink? Other methods?
Breck
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Bernie Weishapl
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #1 - 03/09/12 at 06:43:26
 
Breck I burn a lot of my signatures on light woods. May use a archival ink pen sometimes which when dry the only finish I have found that will smear it was lacquer. So the first couple of coats are really light coats. On dark woods I will use a dremel engraver and fill in with gold wax stick. Wipe off the excess and finish. Leaves a nice sig and can be seen nicely on like black walnut. I used to use a gold fine line paint pen on dark woods and it worked pretty well.
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Robert Harper
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #2 - 03/09/12 at 06:49:49
 
I use a pyrography pen. I've also used the cheeper wood burning pens sold for around $30 in craft stores. I find the cheep ones are either too hot or too cold, rarely just right. Being able to change the setting for the wood I'm marking is a big plus.

As for what I do, I always use the pyrography pen to sign, date, and if I know put down what type of tree it came from. The date I use is the date it was final turned and sanded so the date doesn't include the time spent on finishes and that varies based on the type of finish.
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Jack Hunsucker
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #3 - 03/09/12 at 07:56:28
 
I have yet to find a satisfactory way to sign either. I am also limited by a hand tremor in my writiing hand.
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robo_hippy
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #4 - 03/09/12 at 08:59:00
 
I have used the 'archival' type pens for a few years. They work fine, but I do like the signature to dry for a few hours at least before putting any finish on them. I pick up the pens at my local big box grocery store, in the art department. They use 'India Ink' and have no acid in them. I would guess you could go to an art store and pick them up as well. The art stores also have 'paint' pens which have a surface type of ink/paint, and you can use them on black walnut. There are branding irons, and you can have stickers made, but the stickers won't stick to walnut oil finishes, at least, not till the finish is totally cured, which is a week or two.

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Rev. Doug Miller
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #5 - 03/09/12 at 09:39:50
 
Walmart will carry the pens in question as well.  I still prefer to use my HF engraver.  I have filled a few with colored wax, but usually just engrave and add the finish as I finish the rest of the piece. 
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Kevin Stanbary
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #6 - 03/09/12 at 12:02:24
 
I've been using Sharpie Extra Fine Point Oil Based paint markers.  Once dry, they don't smudge or smear with any finishes.  Now if only I could remember where I found them... bang head
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Andrew Sobota
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #7 - 03/09/12 at 17:42:34
 
I played with gold pen for three years.  Never found one that didn't smudge over and under tru-oil.  I now brand with a custom branding iron (brandingirons.com) and engrave the serial in delicately underneath.  If I ever find a gold pen that works, I'll go back to that on my high end work....till then...warm up the branding iron.  Quick, simple, permanent.
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #8 - 03/09/12 at 22:18:34
 
branding iron.
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #9 - 03/10/12 at 02:58:12
 
Jack,
I sent you a PM.
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Jenny Trice
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #10 - 03/10/12 at 05:25:32
 
I have a similar but slightly different dilemna.  I have not been signing my work yet either.  I curreently have about a dozen nicely finished bowls with no signature.  Is it too late for them?  I am eagerly reading the debate on methods to use prior to finish too and am still undecided.  The cost of the pyro methods seems a little steep.
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Andrew Sobota
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #11 - 03/10/12 at 06:23:44
 
Jenny - Easy to still sign them.  Either engrave over the finish and refinish, or sign and do the same.  I have used my brand over and under with no problems either.  Finish is always weird around it though...
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Donald Carrow
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #12 - 03/10/12 at 14:04:28
 
I had ask the same question back in November and recieved a lot of good recomendations.

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My prefered method today is and archival pen or sharpy with a protective coat of laquear.

If i have a large enoguh flat area i use a branding iron i normaly use on my flat work.

I am sure in time I will use a different method or modified varient, but for now this is what i use.
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JimQuarles
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #13 - 03/10/12 at 19:20:28
 
Pigma Micron Archival pen.  I got it at a hobby shop.  Dries quickly and after about 5 minutes doesn't smear with finish.
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Re: Tips on signing my work
Reply #14 - 03/10/12 at 20:06:07
 
I have been using fine tipped  sharpies for some time now and haven't had a problem. Before adding any sealer I'll sign and date my piece, then apply the sealer or other finish, so far I haven't had any trouble with bleeding. While I was as WC today, I looked at the pyrography pen's, their nice but kinda expensive.
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