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Friction Polish (Read 1,490 times)
 
Glenn Jacobs
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Friction Polish
Dec 4th, 2012 at 1:07pm
 
In an eariler post, there was a recipe for FRench polish that consisted of White Shellac, DNA, BLO. My question: is white shellac mixed or flaked?  Glenn J.
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Larry Matchett
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #1 - Dec 4th, 2012 at 1:44pm
 
Glenn I use shellac in a can.  I do not use the dewaxed shellac for friction polish.  I also use a little extrea DNA it seems to work better.
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Louie Powell
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #2 - Dec 4th, 2012 at 2:22pm
 
Glen -

Here are some recipes for shop-made friction polish that I've accumulated:

1. equal quantities of BLO, shellac and DNA.
2. equal quantities of BLO, lacquer (Deft is fine), and lacquer thinner
3. equal quantities of BLO, carnauba paste wax (eg, Crystal Clear) and turpentine (results similar to Howard's Feed'n Wax, only doesn't smell as nice)
4. carnauba paste wax, with enough shellac added to make a consistency similar to peanut butter (results similar to Shellawax). Shake vigorously before applying.
5. beeswax melted in a double boiler, and with mineral oil added (by volume, about 4 parts oil to one part melted wax) to make a paste. Cool before using. Similar to Howard's Salad Bowl Finish.
6. equal quantities of Mequiars liquid carnauba automobile wax and shellac

As far as proportions go, my sense is that it ain't rocket science, so you don't have to be exact.
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« Last Edit: Dec 4th, 2012 at 5:53pm by Louie Powell »  

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Kathy Jekel
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #3 - Dec 4th, 2012 at 5:28pm
 
Glenn, if you are referring to the home made friction polish Angie and I use,  We use Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac Clear Transparente, Crown Denatured Alcohol, and Crown Boiled Lindseed Oil. We mix ours in a gallon milk jug. We use 1 quart of alcohol. 1quart oil and 42 oz clear shellac.  Shake well and pour into smaller containers for use. You use this the same as you would Mylands Friction Polish.  This recipe works well for us. Others have suggested adding liquid wax, but I haven't done that as I do not know how much to add.   Hope this helps. Smiley
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Glenn Jacobs
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #4 - Dec 5th, 2012 at 1:28pm
 
Alright! Thanks to all for the information/tips/recipes. I have a bowl that I was going to try it out on and now I can go forward.  THANKS Again, Glenn J.
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #5 - Dec 6th, 2012 at 6:37pm
 
Larry Matchett wrote on Dec 4th, 2012 at 1:44pm:
Glenn I use shellac in a can. I do not use the dewaxed shellac for fricetion polish. I also use a little extrea DNA it seems to work better.



The shellac in a can is dewaxed. 

The higher grades of flakes come dewaxed.  I have done some restoration work and had to use garnet shellac flakes which comes with wax.   It adds a separate hassle to mix and then separate the shellac solution from the wax. 

The formula cited above is tried and true for decades.  A similar mix with varnish and mineral spirits has been used almost as long.  Local tuener who likes NIP  mixed the varnish version in 30 gallon lots to soak his turnings.


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Larry Matchett
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #6 - Dec 6th, 2012 at 8:07pm
 
zinser Bulls eye comes in both waxed and dewaxed.
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #7 - Dec 6th, 2012 at 8:26pm
 
Locally, I find clear and amber  -  clear says dewaxed on the can, and the technical data sheets and MSDS are the same for both.  That is, wax is not shown as being present.

Since the wax reduces usable life in solution and durability of finish would be surprised to find it, but can only speak to what is on the local market here.




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Larry Matchett
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #8 - Dec 6th, 2012 at 9:56pm
 

Your Bullseye shellac is not dewaxed. Only the Zinsser Seal Coat is dewaxed.

This is what I was able to get from Rustoleum.  I think both the clear and amber have wax.  It does not settle out due to the other stuff zinser puts in it.  Increases shelf life.

I do not claim to be an expert on shellac by any stretch of the imagination.

This subject has been discussed on a lot of forums.  It really does not matter in the making of a friction polish anyway.  Use the shellac.  Zinsser sealcoat is shellac but is dewaxed and works great as a punky wood stabalizer.
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #9 - Dec 9th, 2012 at 8:01am
 
Larry is right,

Larry Matchett wrote on Dec 6th, 2012 at 9:56pm:
Bullseye shellac is not dewaxed. Only the Zinsser Seal Coat is dewaxed.

Is wax is not an additive but a natural component of shellac so it won't be on the list of ingredients or the MSDS sheet. Wax needs to be removed for dewaxed shellac.

Look at a can of coffee, it doesn't list caffeine as an ingredient.

Hint:
If you don't stir shellac the wax over time will settle to the bottom of the can. You'll see it as a cloudy blob. If you decant just the top clear part of the liquid you can use it as dewaxed shellac. I beleive Zinsser adds additives to prolong the life of shellac so the wax may not settle or take a really really long to do so.
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« Last Edit: Dec 9th, 2012 at 8:05am by Ron Sardo »  

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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #10 - Dec 9th, 2012 at 9:21am
 
Larry Matchett wrote on Dec 6th, 2012 at 8:07pm:
zinser Bulls eye comes in both waxed and dewaxed.


I suspect there is some interpertation in "dewaxed".  When mix the garnet, there is a lot of wax and I recover about 2/3 of the volume.  I have some lemon "dewaxed" that still leaves about 5% cloudy  in the bottom of the container.  The higher cost lighest grade flakes has only an occasional dark piece that I suspect is a bug part in the bottom after mixing.

Short of analytical info we speculate, but expect there is some wax reduction in the commercial premixed  --  but that labeled with specifics has the most removed. 



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Charlie Zapalac
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Re: Friction Polish
Reply #11 - Dec 9th, 2012 at 10:58pm
 
I have been using the 3 part mix listed here.  I really like it.  I have found that if you mix alot at a time, the alcohol will evaporate off.  Then you have to guess as to how much to add back.  So, I did a little experiment with a few different containers, putting some in there, marking it, then checking the line in a few days.  I found that if you put your mix in an empty plastic rubbing alcohol, the mix never gets lower than the line that was marked.  I don't know what is different. Maybe the type of plastic but it works.
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