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Prototype Inlay Box (Read 2,005 times)
 
Roger_Smith
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Prototype Inlay Box
Jan 19th, 2013 at 11:06pm
 
I am trying to do some inlays filling a dovetail cut.  I mounted a 7 degree dovetail bit in my router and cut the top of a bow I am making.  I then set my bandsaw up and cut some 7 degree dovetails.  Put some glue on the pieces and slipped them in the cuts.  Finished turning the top and bottom, before scrapping the unit with a catch cutting the tenon off the bottom

I think the inlay may have a more visual effect by leaving a smaller radius on the corner.  I think I will also do one by cutting the center out and placing an inlay there.

Any other thoughts, suggestions, etc.?
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« Last Edit: Jan 19th, 2013 at 11:07pm by Roger_Smith »  
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #1 - Jan 19th, 2013 at 11:13pm
 
I have a box much like that, with a gap in the bottom.  I use it to hold my rubber bands in the office.
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #2 - Jan 19th, 2013 at 11:22pm
 
I think the dove tail shape got lost in the first pic but still I like the concept.  Whats happening in pic 2 ?   Pic 3.  Is that a design opportunity?  If you have a glue up on top maybe you can recover the bottom with another glue up segment.      As for top inlays We've done some at our club.  Maybe try Maple for the box and a walnut top inlay.  Then we drilled and inserted solder or brass rod and accents.     I have some dyed and stabilized burl slabs I got from a fella on Ebay.  He sells Knife scales and I  ordered a couple of colors to inlay in a box or two.  Now I got to hurry and finish one before you scoop me.
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #3 - Jan 19th, 2013 at 11:38pm
 

Pic 2 is showing the inside of the lid.  I cut through into the inlays at the corners.  I need to try to avoid that on the next one. 

It is maple with walnut inlays.
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #4 - Jan 20th, 2013 at 8:09am
 
I like the concept.

I couldn't tell they were dovetails either, maybe its the photo or the corner radius. If it is the radius I agree with you, a smaller one would help. Maybe even sharper angles too.

Jam chuck the bottom and cut in a inlay, or hand cut a dutchman to cover the hole.

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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #5 - Jan 20th, 2013 at 11:46am
 
Good concept, but you must keep an eye on the radii. The bottom of the dovetail (the skinny part) should barely be touched when turning. There is not much material to fool around with. You could also try a higher degree dovetail, 9 or 14.
I tried a similar idea on an ornament and the dovetail can get lost easily.
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Second attempt
Reply #6 - Jan 21st, 2013 at 7:38pm
 
Another try.  Box (2.5 by 2.5) is hard maple with walnut inlays.  Inlays are 14 degrees.  Finish is friction polish and wax.

Edited;
I noticed some sanding marking in the picture.  I need to go badk and sand again.
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« Last Edit: Jan 21st, 2013 at 7:41pm by Roger_Smith »  
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #7 - Jan 21st, 2013 at 9:07pm
 
I like your dovetails much better in this one.  Well done.  BTW, you'll be real glad you went back and worked on this sanding lines.  They can be so pesky sometimes.
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #8 - Jan 21st, 2013 at 9:29pm
 
The 14 degree cut makes a big difference.
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New design
Reply #9 - Jan 24th, 2013 at 6:14pm
 
Lid features a spur shape inlay or wagonwheel with a rim.  Inlay is from walnut, cherry and maple.
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #10 - Jan 25th, 2013 at 10:22am
 
Roger, I think you're coming up with some nice designs, keep tweaking them until you're satisfied.
Only thing negative I can say is, watch you grain alignment.
Your second box with the 14 degree walnut top, you could experience some wood movement or even cracking depending on how thick the wood is. I know it's a small box, but you have grain running in all directions.
In this last one I think the center section (spur) should be aligned with the outer rim.
JMHO, keep up the good work.
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #11 - Jan 25th, 2013 at 11:16am
 
Looks like a good start to some wild work. You could maybe shorten the learning curve by doing research on other people's work. Very little is novel anymore.

As for the box with the funnel base, you could save it by turning a pedestal base that fits the funnel hole.
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Roger_Smith
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #12 - Jan 25th, 2013 at 6:58pm
 
Ed Weber wrote on Jan 25th, 2013 at 10:22am:
Roger, I think you're coming up with some nice designs, keep tweaking them until you're satisfied.
Only thing negative I can say is, watch you grain alignment.
Your second box with the 14 degree walnut top, you could experience some wood movement or even cracking depending on how thick the wood is. I know it's a small box, but you have grain running in all directions.
In this last one I think the center section (spur) should be aligned with the outer rim.
JMHO, keep up the good work.


Thanks for the tip.  I will try to cut some inlays so that the grain runs in the same direction.
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Re: Prototype Inlay Box
Reply #13 - Jan 25th, 2013 at 7:02pm
 
Robert Harper wrote on Jan 25th, 2013 at 11:16am:
Looks like a good start to some wild work. You could maybe shorten the learning curve by doing research on other people's work. Very little is novel anymore.

As for the box with the funnel base, you could save it by turning a pedestal base that fits the funnel hole.


Thanks,  maybe I should have titled it something new for me.  I spend time most nights looking at the work of other people. 

As for the base with the hole, it is not worth repairing.  The inlays do not fit tight enough and the radius is too large.  if the top was OK, I would have made another base out of walnut.

Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions.
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« Last Edit: Jan 25th, 2013 at 7:04pm by Roger_Smith »  

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Another new box with inlays
Reply #14 - Jan 30th, 2013 at 5:18pm
 
Oyster shell shape turned from white oak with BLM, redheart and copper inlay.
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« Last Edit: Jan 30th, 2013 at 5:26pm by Roger_Smith »  
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