I found this today and think it is very good.

Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or

Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or

robo hippy

Since I am a platform sharpener, and don't use jigs, I can't really comment. I have heard a lot of people say that they prefer the VG 1, and not the 2.

robo hippy

I imagine the geometry of the VG2 gets confusing. The VG1 is simpler.

I never have fallen off the edge of my 1 1/2 inch wide wheels. Did it way too often with my older 1 inch wide wheels.

robo hippy

robo_hippy wrote on Feb 27^th, 2014 at 7:15pm:

BTDT
Just part of the reason I went to the CBN,

Very good presentation but it drives me up the wall when someone uses that comparison between the grinder burr on a scraper and the burnished hook on a cabinetmaker's card scraper.  The two things are completely different.  If you grind your scraper to shape, hone it to a very sharp edge (completely removing the grinder burr) and then burnish that sharp edge so it faces up, then you can make the comparison.  Otherwise there is no similarity whatsoever.

Take care
Bob

There are burrs, and there are burrs. I guess several types.

One is more of a 'wire' burr. These are raised from grinding more with the standard wheels. Very weak, and tend to break off with even minimal use. They are weaker of you sharpen upside down.

Another is the CBN wheel burr. I have no idea why, but this burr is very strong, and I use it on my scrapers for roughing out bowls. It is not as refined as a burnished burr, so the cut is a little bit more coarse than one that is burnished, but is fine for about 95% of what I do. I always hone off the old burr before grinding a new one on it.

There is a honed burr. These are done after grinding. You hone the top of the scraper, then the face, and some times go back and forth a time or two to remove the grinder burr. Then, you hone the face of the bevel. This raises a very slight burr in the scraper. Better for finish shear cut/scrapes, but not so good for heavy roughing. A coarser hone (220) will raise a more sturdy burr, a fine hone will raise a more delicate burr. Personally, I consider it very similar to a CBN wheel burr, but not as strong. It is almost a burnished burr, but your burnishing tool in this case is coarse compared to the rod/burnishing tools.

Then there is the burnished burr. You grind and hone like above. I use a triangle burnishing tool for card scrapers. It takes very little effort to raise a burr even on the V 10 tools like Doug makes. For some reason the round burnishers don't do as good of a job. If your bevel angle is 70 degrees, then you want the burnisher at 75 degrees. I think this is pretty close to what the Veritas burnishing tool that you screw down to your bench top does. The problem with that (I don't have one, and haven't used one) is that turners seem to really bear down on it to turn a really heavy burr on it. You can over burnish it to the point where the burr resembles a wave that has broken and the burr is turned too far over to be good at cutting. The burnished burr is a finer edge than the grinder or honed burrs. Thing to me is that they generally are not worth the extra effort to make, and I only use them for an exceptionally difficult piece of wood. They do work better on hard dense woods, not on soft stringy woods.

robo hippy

On the subject of burrs on a card scraper my experience was the learning curve of pressing too hard to obtain a burr.  I finally discovered I was not returning my scraper to a perfect flat edge 90 degrees to the sides.  A lighter touch with the burnisher gave me a nice 'wire' edge.