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Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade (Read 5,257 times)
 
Chuck Beland
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Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Apr 12th, 2014 at 7:59pm
 
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Chuck Beland
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #1 - Apr 12th, 2014 at 8:00pm
 
this looks pretty good to me what about you guys with more experience than me ???
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Bob Hamilton
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #2 - Apr 12th, 2014 at 8:45pm
 
Very good video.  I will have to try that set-up in regards to having the blade gullets at the center of the wheel rather than having the blade centered on the wheel.  What he says seems to make sense and may be where the blade drift I always have to compensate for is coming from.

Thanks for posting this one.

Bob
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #3 - Apr 13th, 2014 at 3:55am
 
Bob,
i don't know much about BS i keep getting bad drift in my rikon & setting the rollers to the blade is a pain especially in the bottom. i was going to try it myself. it maybe a pain taking the table off on mine but worth a try. especially after seeing this videos & how easy he made it seem to adjust the guides & cut a perfect straight line
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Ed Weber
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #4 - Apr 13th, 2014 at 12:08pm
 
First and foremost HE SHOULD BE WEARING SAFETY GLASSES.

Here are a few points.
His dismissal about having your wheels co-planer is ridiculous. Your wheels should start out co-planer and unless you have done something major to your saw like add a riser block they are most likely fine.
Having the gullet of the blade at the center is not really accurate, the gullet is merely the axis or pivot point of the blade.
The bottom wheel stays perfectly vertical, while the top wheel tilts forward and backwards. This is how you track the blade and compensate for drift. The wheels are crowned across the entire width so center is a meaningless designation. If I tilt the wheel either forward or back, the "center" moves.
Remember, you are trying to track the blade to run true, not align a certain part of the blade to a certain part of the wheel.

With a standard setup with the fence on the left side of the blade.
If you need to tilt the top of the wheel towards you, this positions the blade further back on the wheel which in turn will track the blade to cut to the right, or away from the fence.
If you tilt the top wheel back, or away from you , this will position the blade forward on the wheel, which in turn will track the blade to cut to the left, or towards the fence.
These are not large adjustments.
I start the process with the blade roughly centered then perform a test cut, I usually adjust the tracking knob only 1/4 turn at a time and then perform another test cut. When the process is complete and the blade is tracking where you want it, it will most likely not be centered on the top wheel, that okay.

It's also important to keep in mind that he is a salesman for carter products.

hope this helps, use common sense and try to be safe
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Larry Matchett
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #5 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 1:49pm
 
I agree safety glasses
Coplaner - don't mess with your wheels.  Riser blocks could be a problem but should not if you use the riser blocks made for the your model of saw.
I don't agree with fixing tracking by moving the blade on the saw.  I was taught that the blade should be centered on the top wheel and should be ok if it is on the bottom wheel.  Most of the time it is pretty centered on the bottom wheel also.  Makes sense about the gullet in the center.  Probably would help with drift.  Going to try that.
Actually carter band saw guides are great.  They are higher quality then MOST band saw guides.  They are a lot easier to adjust.  All guides are pretty much adjusted the same.
Blade tension is spot on.  I also use the flutter method.  They both are about the same.
I have found that if I use a sharp blade and let the saw do the work and not using much force I get no drift.  Dull blades are the only problem I have.  The reason I use Ellis blades, last a long time and are less expensive then others.  One must remember blades are like sand paper.  Disposable.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #6 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:15pm
 
I redid the setup on my BS after watching this video.  It does cut much better.  Thanks for posting Chuck.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #7 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:22pm
 
Larry Matchett wrote on Apr 14th, 2014 at 1:49pm:
I don't agree with fixing tracking by moving the blade on the saw.  I was taught that the blade should be centered on the top wheel and should be ok if it is on the bottom wheel.  Most of the time it is pretty centered on the bottom wheel also.  Makes sense about the gullet in the center.  Probably would help with drift.  Going to try that.


I'm not trying to start anything here, but how do you adjust for drift, adjust the fence?

I have nothing against carter products, I own many of them. The point was, that it's his job to sell products.
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Len Layman
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #8 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:48pm
 
This quote is from PS wood Machines the makers of Timber Wolf blades.

"The proper position on the wheel is when the inside of the gullets
(the notch that forms the tooth) of the blade teeth align with the center line of the wheel. The
majority of the blade will be on the backside of the wheel. Only the teeth should be forward of the
wheel centerline. With very wide blades of ¾” or greater the blade can be moved forward slightly."
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Ed Weber
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #9 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 3:32pm
 
Len Layman wrote on Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:48pm:
"The proper position on the wheel is when the inside of the gullets
(the notch that forms the tooth) of the blade teeth align with the center line of the wheel. The
majority of the blade will be on the backside of the wheel. Only the teeth should be forward of the
wheel centerline. With very wide blades of ¾” or greater the blade can be moved forward slightly."



Len, I don't really disagree with that statement, I think it's a good starting point.
The main difference is that I use the tracking adjustment on the top wheel to fine tune the alignment and remove drift. As a result, my blade may not be within the parameters mentioned. My blade could end up a bit further forward or back. The reason this doesn't concern me is the the wheel is crowned across the entire width. This means that as I tilt the wheel in either direction (adjusting tracking) the blade is making contact with the wheel in the same manner as if it were perfectly centered. The area where the blade contacts the wheel will be a bit further forward or back, resulting in more pressure on either the front side or back side of the blade and since BS blades are flexible, this allows use to track to adjust for blade drift.
Everyone has their own method  Smiley
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #10 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 7:05pm
 
It's only stupid if it doesn't work.  There are many ways to do things.  If it works for you keep doing it.  I have found that if I get everything adjusted properly and don't force the work so that the blade does not make heavy contact with the thrust bearing I get little to no drift and my fence which is aligned with the blade works just fine.  If the blade gets dull and I start forcing the work into it the cuts takes on the look of a snake.  The hardest thing I have to do is throw away what looks like a good blade and feels kind of sharp.  I wish blades would last longer, especially when cutting bowl blanks.  In the video you will notice he uses brand new blades.
Ed,
How do you tell which way to adjust the tracking to correct for drift.  You are the first I have ever heard of to fix drift that way.  I am always interested in learning new tricks.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #11 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 7:47pm
 
Larry, here is a link that can explain it better than I can.  Embarrassed
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I thought I was the only one to use this method until several years ago I found that article, at least I'm not alone. Roll Eyes
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #12 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 8:30pm
 
Well after reading the article they seem to both be saying the same thing.  Blade in the middle of the wheel.  Probably why I don't have any drift.  I guess if you are getting drift and have a sharp blade then you should check to see where you blade is.  Not really rocket science here I guess.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #13 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 10:00pm
 
Larry Matchett wrote on Apr 14th, 2014 at 8:30pm:
I guess if you are getting drift and have a sharp blade then you should check to see where you blade is.  Not really rocket science here I guess.


That's about it Larry.
As I said earlier, start in the center and make small adjustments. No two blades are the same and therefore will not ride in exactly the same spot on the wheel.
I have not adjusted my fence in years.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #14 - Apr 15th, 2014 at 7:17pm
 
Well I just completely reset my band saw using the video as a guide.  The only thing I did different is not taking off the table.  Mine is a Rikon 14" Deluxe and it is a real pain to remove the table, four bolts and hard to line them up by yourself.

I have no drift.  Table is level and two cut test is perfect.  I am using a 1/2" 4 tpi and the next time I order blades I will probably get 1/2" 3 tpi based on the pdf.  I do like cutting blanks with the 3/8th 4 tpi blades.  For cutting veneer I have not found anything that works as well as Highland's woodslicer, a 1/2" blade.

The 1/2" blade rides a little further to the rear then I am used to since the gullets are centered but everything seems great.

I guess the whole thing is take your time and set it up properly and everything will be ok.  Still looking for a band saw blade that lasts as long as a table saw blade.  My wish is for a carbide tipped 1/32 inch kerf band saw blade either 3/8 or 1/2 3 or 4 tpi.
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