Glad to hear you got things set up and running smooth. Now you can set your fence and forget it.
I don't know what type of cutting you or anyone else here does but a word of caution about 3tpi blades. Yes they are good for knocking off corners and roughing logs down to manageable size, but anything  1" or less and it's another story.
Rule of thumb is to have 3 teeth MINIMUM in the stock at any given time, for standard 3/4" stock that means a 4tpi blade. I would say (I'm generalizing here) that a good all around blade for "turners" would be a 4tpi blade.

well guys,
when i found this vid i actually was searching for vids on making drawers. i noticed that yes he had carter products shirt on but also noticed he did say this is bot a commercial for carter products. if you want after the demo stay & he would talk to you about carter products. this is a demo on how to tune, adjust a BS & how to change blades to correct for drift.

since i have never done really any flat work or reaLLY AM NOT A EXPERT AT ANY type of flat work machine. when i set up my rikon 10-325 following the mfg's specs on setting & adjusting it i have never been able to cut a nice straight line especially get a nice straight bowl blank from a log.

I like how easily he made it look & using a 1/4" blade too.  on my rikon it really is a bear to adjust the bottom guides crawling under the table. doing it this way maybe a bit of a PITA by taking off the table but at least it seems like a lot easier method then what rikon says to do. so I'm going to give it a shot & by what Ron just said he did his rikon & it cuts a lot better makes me think that mine will also do the same.

i didn't mean to cause strife I( just wanted input from you guys with more experience with wood machines than i have to see what you thought of doing it this way/

It's all good Chuck, I'm glad you posted this.
We already have a couple of members that have improved their setup and should make it easier to do so in the future.
I really see no reason to remove the table unless absolutely necessary. You should be able to back off and/or adjust the lower bearings (or guide blocks) to allow enough room to do what ever you need.

Ron Carrabotta wrote on Apr 18^th, 2014 at 4:07pm:

Ron, I found that also.  It makes a big difference.

Chuck, Great post.  It may have caused some "discussion"  But we have all learned from it.  Thanks.

Ron,
good to know i really didn't want to take the table off my 10-325. so i'll try doing it without taking it off. even myself being a newbie using a BS i really don't think the rikon guides are very good or that just maybe me not adjusting them correctly ??

After ordering my new band saw, I watched this video three times.

When the saw arrived, I set it up as directed in the video, despite the fact that the manual did state that the blade should be centered in the wheel.

The thing cut true and cleanly, and when I change blades, as he said in the video, the alignment stays the same. No readjustment is needed. The gullet is the gullet, regardless of the blade width.

Oh, and +1 for Ellis blades. The only issue is that you must have a minimum order of $50. Get about 5 or 6 blades for that price. Last and cut as well as any Timberwolf blade that costs three times what Ellis charges per blade.