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Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade (Read 5,227 times)
 
Chuck Beland
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Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Apr 12th, 2014 at 7:59pm
 
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Chuck Beland
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #1 - Apr 12th, 2014 at 8:00pm
 
this looks pretty good to me what about you guys with more experience than me ???
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Bob Hamilton
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #2 - Apr 12th, 2014 at 8:45pm
 
Very good video.  I will have to try that set-up in regards to having the blade gullets at the center of the wheel rather than having the blade centered on the wheel.  What he says seems to make sense and may be where the blade drift I always have to compensate for is coming from.

Thanks for posting this one.

Bob
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #3 - Apr 13th, 2014 at 3:55am
 
Bob,
i don't know much about BS i keep getting bad drift in my rikon & setting the rollers to the blade is a pain especially in the bottom. i was going to try it myself. it maybe a pain taking the table off on mine but worth a try. especially after seeing this videos & how easy he made it seem to adjust the guides & cut a perfect straight line
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #4 - Apr 13th, 2014 at 12:08pm
 
First and foremost HE SHOULD BE WEARING SAFETY GLASSES.

Here are a few points.
His dismissal about having your wheels co-planer is ridiculous. Your wheels should start out co-planer and unless you have done something major to your saw like add a riser block they are most likely fine.
Having the gullet of the blade at the center is not really accurate, the gullet is merely the axis or pivot point of the blade.
The bottom wheel stays perfectly vertical, while the top wheel tilts forward and backwards. This is how you track the blade and compensate for drift. The wheels are crowned across the entire width so center is a meaningless designation. If I tilt the wheel either forward or back, the "center" moves.
Remember, you are trying to track the blade to run true, not align a certain part of the blade to a certain part of the wheel.

With a standard setup with the fence on the left side of the blade.
If you need to tilt the top of the wheel towards you, this positions the blade further back on the wheel which in turn will track the blade to cut to the right, or away from the fence.
If you tilt the top wheel back, or away from you , this will position the blade forward on the wheel, which in turn will track the blade to cut to the left, or towards the fence.
These are not large adjustments.
I start the process with the blade roughly centered then perform a test cut, I usually adjust the tracking knob only 1/4 turn at a time and then perform another test cut. When the process is complete and the blade is tracking where you want it, it will most likely not be centered on the top wheel, that okay.

It's also important to keep in mind that he is a salesman for carter products.

hope this helps, use common sense and try to be safe
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Larry Matchett
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #5 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 1:49pm
 
I agree safety glasses
Coplaner - don't mess with your wheels.  Riser blocks could be a problem but should not if you use the riser blocks made for the your model of saw.
I don't agree with fixing tracking by moving the blade on the saw.  I was taught that the blade should be centered on the top wheel and should be ok if it is on the bottom wheel.  Most of the time it is pretty centered on the bottom wheel also.  Makes sense about the gullet in the center.  Probably would help with drift.  Going to try that.
Actually carter band saw guides are great.  They are higher quality then MOST band saw guides.  They are a lot easier to adjust.  All guides are pretty much adjusted the same.
Blade tension is spot on.  I also use the flutter method.  They both are about the same.
I have found that if I use a sharp blade and let the saw do the work and not using much force I get no drift.  Dull blades are the only problem I have.  The reason I use Ellis blades, last a long time and are less expensive then others.  One must remember blades are like sand paper.  Disposable.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #6 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:15pm
 
I redid the setup on my BS after watching this video.  It does cut much better.  Thanks for posting Chuck.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #7 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:22pm
 
Larry Matchett wrote on Apr 14th, 2014 at 1:49pm:
I don't agree with fixing tracking by moving the blade on the saw.  I was taught that the blade should be centered on the top wheel and should be ok if it is on the bottom wheel.  Most of the time it is pretty centered on the bottom wheel also.  Makes sense about the gullet in the center.  Probably would help with drift.  Going to try that.


I'm not trying to start anything here, but how do you adjust for drift, adjust the fence?

I have nothing against carter products, I own many of them. The point was, that it's his job to sell products.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #8 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:48pm
 
This quote is from PS wood Machines the makers of Timber Wolf blades.

"The proper position on the wheel is when the inside of the gullets
(the notch that forms the tooth) of the blade teeth align with the center line of the wheel. The
majority of the blade will be on the backside of the wheel. Only the teeth should be forward of the
wheel centerline. With very wide blades of ¾” or greater the blade can be moved forward slightly."
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Ed Weber
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #9 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 3:32pm
 
Len Layman wrote on Apr 14th, 2014 at 2:48pm:
"The proper position on the wheel is when the inside of the gullets
(the notch that forms the tooth) of the blade teeth align with the center line of the wheel. The
majority of the blade will be on the backside of the wheel. Only the teeth should be forward of the
wheel centerline. With very wide blades of ¾” or greater the blade can be moved forward slightly."



Len, I don't really disagree with that statement, I think it's a good starting point.
The main difference is that I use the tracking adjustment on the top wheel to fine tune the alignment and remove drift. As a result, my blade may not be within the parameters mentioned. My blade could end up a bit further forward or back. The reason this doesn't concern me is the the wheel is crowned across the entire width. This means that as I tilt the wheel in either direction (adjusting tracking) the blade is making contact with the wheel in the same manner as if it were perfectly centered. The area where the blade contacts the wheel will be a bit further forward or back, resulting in more pressure on either the front side or back side of the blade and since BS blades are flexible, this allows use to track to adjust for blade drift.
Everyone has their own method  Smiley
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #10 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 7:05pm
 
It's only stupid if it doesn't work.  There are many ways to do things.  If it works for you keep doing it.  I have found that if I get everything adjusted properly and don't force the work so that the blade does not make heavy contact with the thrust bearing I get little to no drift and my fence which is aligned with the blade works just fine.  If the blade gets dull and I start forcing the work into it the cuts takes on the look of a snake.  The hardest thing I have to do is throw away what looks like a good blade and feels kind of sharp.  I wish blades would last longer, especially when cutting bowl blanks.  In the video you will notice he uses brand new blades.
Ed,
How do you tell which way to adjust the tracking to correct for drift.  You are the first I have ever heard of to fix drift that way.  I am always interested in learning new tricks.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #11 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 7:47pm
 
Larry, here is a link that can explain it better than I can.  Embarrassed
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I thought I was the only one to use this method until several years ago I found that article, at least I'm not alone. Roll Eyes
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #12 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 8:30pm
 
Well after reading the article they seem to both be saying the same thing.  Blade in the middle of the wheel.  Probably why I don't have any drift.  I guess if you are getting drift and have a sharp blade then you should check to see where you blade is.  Not really rocket science here I guess.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #13 - Apr 14th, 2014 at 10:00pm
 
Larry Matchett wrote on Apr 14th, 2014 at 8:30pm:
I guess if you are getting drift and have a sharp blade then you should check to see where you blade is.  Not really rocket science here I guess.


That's about it Larry.
As I said earlier, start in the center and make small adjustments. No two blades are the same and therefore will not ride in exactly the same spot on the wheel.
I have not adjusted my fence in years.
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Larry Matchett
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #14 - Apr 15th, 2014 at 7:17pm
 
Well I just completely reset my band saw using the video as a guide.  The only thing I did different is not taking off the table.  Mine is a Rikon 14" Deluxe and it is a real pain to remove the table, four bolts and hard to line them up by yourself.

I have no drift.  Table is level and two cut test is perfect.  I am using a 1/2" 4 tpi and the next time I order blades I will probably get 1/2" 3 tpi based on the pdf.  I do like cutting blanks with the 3/8th 4 tpi blades.  For cutting veneer I have not found anything that works as well as Highland's woodslicer, a 1/2" blade.

The 1/2" blade rides a little further to the rear then I am used to since the gullets are centered but everything seems great.

I guess the whole thing is take your time and set it up properly and everything will be ok.  Still looking for a band saw blade that lasts as long as a table saw blade.  My wish is for a carbide tipped 1/32 inch kerf band saw blade either 3/8 or 1/2 3 or 4 tpi.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #15 - Apr 15th, 2014 at 9:34pm
 
Glad to hear you got things set up and running smooth. Now you can set your fence and forget it.
I don't know what type of cutting you or anyone else here does but a word of caution about 3tpi blades. Yes they are good for knocking off corners and roughing logs down to manageable size, but anything  1" or less and it's another story.
Rule of thumb is to have 3 teeth MINIMUM in the stock at any given time, for standard 3/4" stock that means a 4tpi blade. I would say (I'm generalizing here) that a good all around blade for "turners" would be a 4tpi blade.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #16 - Apr 18th, 2014 at 12:57pm
 
I watched the video several times and downloaded the PDF in the link that Ed provided.

Went out to the shop armed with all of the new knowledge and proceeded to "tune up" the old Rikon 10-325.

WOW!!! What a difference, I didn't know how bad the original setup was until I re-tuned it. Was able to cut some 3/32" veneer slabs from a piece of Mahogany about 4" wide. Consistent thickness all across the width of the veneer. Very little if any drift, now have the rip fence parallel to the guide slots on the table.  Thumbs Up  Thumbs Up
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #17 - Apr 18th, 2014 at 3:56pm
 
well guys,
when i found this vid i actually was searching for vids on making drawers. i noticed that yes he had carter products shirt on but also noticed he did say this is bot a commercial for carter products. if you want after the demo stay & he would talk to you about carter products. this is a demo on how to tune, adjust a BS & how to change blades to correct for drift.

since i have never done really any flat work or reaLLY AM NOT A EXPERT AT ANY type of flat work machine. when i set up my rikon 10-325 following the mfg's specs on setting & adjusting it i have never been able to cut a nice straight line especially get a nice straight bowl blank from a log.

I like how easily he made it look & using a 1/4" blade too.  on my rikon it really is a bear to adjust the bottom guides crawling under the table. doing it this way maybe a bit of a PITA by taking off the table but at least it seems like a lot easier method then what rikon says to do. so I'm going to give it a shot & by what Ron just said he did his rikon & it cuts a lot better makes me think that mine will also do the same.

i didn't mean to cause strife I( just wanted input from you guys with more experience with wood machines than i have to see what you thought of doing it this way/
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Ron Carrabotta
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #18 - Apr 18th, 2014 at 4:07pm
 
Chuck,
As info, I did NOT remove the table, was able to accomplish what I needed to do by just removing the plate in the center of the table. As you know, the 10-325 guides are not quite as user friendly as the ones in the video.

One other thing that I found out, my tension was waaaaaayyyyyy too tight, I use a 3 tpi, 1/2" Ellis blade for everything.

Good luck!  Thumbs Up
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #19 - Apr 18th, 2014 at 4:15pm
 
It's all good Chuck, I'm glad you posted this.
We already have a couple of members that have improved their setup and should make it easier to do so in the future.
I really see no reason to remove the table unless absolutely necessary. You should be able to back off and/or adjust the lower bearings (or guide blocks) to allow enough room to do what ever you need.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #20 - Apr 18th, 2014 at 7:09pm
 
Ron & Chuck,
I upgraded my Rikon with carter guides.  A huge difference in performance.  The micro adjustable tool less design is terrific.  The Rikon 10-325 is a great saw but the guides are terrible.  The downside is the Carter guides are pretty pricey.  Oh well, turning has a shop vac on my wallet anyway.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #21 - Apr 18th, 2014 at 9:53pm
 
Ron Carrabotta wrote on Apr 18th, 2014 at 4:07pm:
my tension was waaaaaayyyyyy too tight

Ron, I found that also.  It makes a big difference.

Chuck, Great post.  It may have caused some "discussion"  But we have all learned from it.  Thanks.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #22 - Apr 19th, 2014 at 9:46am
 
Len Layman wrote on Apr 18th, 2014 at 9:53pm:
It may have caused some "discussion"  But we have all learned from it.


That  the whole thing in a nut shell. As long as the "discussions" remain friendly, it's all good.  Smiley

Now that some of you have your tools tracking and/or running better, I think you will find that it's much easier to use sleds and jigs.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #23 - Apr 20th, 2014 at 5:33am
 
Ron,
good to know i really didn't want to take the table off my 10-325. so i'll try doing it without taking it off. even myself being a newbie using a BS i really don't think the rikon guides are very good or that just maybe me not adjusting them correctly ??
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #24 - Jun 29th, 2014 at 6:02pm
 
Thank you for posting that.  I just got my first band saw last week.  It's used and already set up, but I really didn't have the experience base to know what was set up right or wrong.  That video went a long way towards showing me some things I'll need to know.
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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #25 - Jun 30th, 2014 at 2:26pm
 
After ordering my new band saw, I watched this video three times.

When the saw arrived, I set it up as directed in the video, despite the fact that the manual did state that the blade should be centered in the wheel.

The thing cut true and cleanly, and when I change blades, as he said in the video, the alignment stays the same. No readjustment is needed. The gullet is the gullet, regardless of the blade width.

Oh, and +1 for Ellis blades. The only issue is that you must have a minimum order of $50. Get about 5 or 6 blades for that price. Last and cut as well as any Timberwolf blade that costs three times what Ellis charges per blade.
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« Last Edit: Jun 30th, 2014 at 2:27pm by Jeff Gilfor »  

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Re: Interesting vid on setting up & changing Bandsaw blade
Reply #26 - Aug 21st, 2014 at 11:06am
 
I saw this video earlier this year and my band saw began to cut straight lines for the first time. Great advice
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