I just brought some bees wax, I believe I was told it was good for putting on a good finish.

I guess I don't know how to use it.
It came in bars, I applied with a slow speed and a fast speed. Then tried to polish off the excess.
I never got a smooth coating.

Is it me, or is the product not meant to be used for a finish.

I got my lump of bee's wax from a honey farm. Just hold the lump on the work piece to transfer some wax then use a shop towel folded up to friction melt the wax into the wood. Most times I use mineral oil to sand first then apply the bee's wax on top and melt in. It gives me a soft mat finish that is very easy to maintain. my 0.02 worth.

My experience is the same as Rons.
I did mix up some as Derek suggested in a double broiler but I used turpentine instead of mineral oil as I thought mineral oil never cured.
You have to work with it a bit to get the thickness you want (catsup?); so you have to let it cool and add a little more wax or solvent, reheat, and cool again.

Ron Sardo is right about the lack of durability of bees wax.  It's been used for centuries on bowls, however, and by many bowl turners.  For the salad bowl that is only used "for company" ( a few times a year) it is quite adequate. In my own experience, a beeswax finish has held up better than a walnut oil finish.

Mike Mills is right about turpentine for the solvent to liquefy the wax.  "Turps" is a natural solvent made from trees. Unlike mineral spirits, it's biodegradable, non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, and is the solvent of choice for fine arts.

50/50 is the ratio that I was taught, and if you are patient, the turps will dissolve the wax without warming/melting the wax.

If you are looking for "organic", "earth-friendly", "environmentally conscious", and "food safe"....the turpentine/beeswax finish could not be beat.