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Bandsaws and bowl blank prep (Read 1,521 times)
 
robo_hippy
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Bandsaws and bowl blank prep
Oct 15th, 2014 at 10:17am
 
The next clip....

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« Last Edit: Oct 15th, 2014 at 11:10am by Bob Hamilton »  
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John Grace
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Bel Air, Maryland, USA
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Re: Bandsaws and bowl blank prep
Reply #1 - Nov 26th, 2014 at 10:03am
 
Reed...Just watched your video and found it both interesting and informative.  I especially liked the idea of having the pre-cut templates for laying out pieces...so simple and yet I never thought of it before.

Question...I have just a single, modest size 14" Grizzly bandsaw and I use it for both small re-sawing as well as cutting out blanks.  With the one saw...what would you recommend relative to type of blade and TPI?  Admittedly, I'm not the best at saw set-up so I like the 'one and done' approach.

THANKS...John
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robo_hippy
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Re: Bandsaws and bowl blank prep
Reply #2 - Nov 26th, 2014 at 12:42pm
 
For bowl blanks, there are specialty resaw blades. Most will use a 1/2 inch blade with 3 teeth per inch. They come in different thicknesses as well. I prefer the more heavy duty blades, which I think is 0.035 thickness, but am not sure. I prefer the Lennox bimetal Diemaster blades. They cost a bit more, but way out perform any other blade I have heard of. The bimetal means a hard metal for the teeth, bonded to a softer metal for the blade, so it cuts longer. If you have a near by saw shop, they may have this in stock, or know of some one who does. The bimetal, when you run into metal, will be dulled, but not ruined. I get mine resharpened regularly, and the price is good. Many on this forum use Ellis Bandsaw blades, but I have no experience with them. I have had a couple of friends switch from the Timberwolf blades to the Lennox after trying them. If you talk to a seller, tell them what you are cutting and they can help set you up.

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John Grace
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Re: Bandsaws and bowl blank prep
Reply #3 - Nov 26th, 2014 at 5:18pm
 
Do you prefer the vari-tooth, std, or hook design?  Again, thanks...
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robo_hippy
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Re: Bandsaws and bowl blank prep
Reply #4 - Nov 27th, 2014 at 12:57am
 
Um, I don't really know. I do know the Diemaster is made for resawing. There is some hook in the teeth, and a good set (sideways bending outward) to them. The teeth for wood are a lot different than the ones used for metal. Again, if you have a bandsaw blade maker in the area, they know more than I do. A friend sent me to the guy who makes them locally, and I found out much later how good the blades really were.

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John Grace
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Re: Bandsaws and bowl blank prep
Reply #5 - Nov 27th, 2014 at 10:09am
 
Thank you and Thanksgiving...
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Don Stephan
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Re: Bandsaws and bowl blank prep
Reply #6 - Nov 27th, 2014 at 10:10am
 
John:

One of the reasons I started getting bandsaw blades from Timberwolf/Suffolk was the education they offered on bandsaw blade design - blade width, tooth style and spacing.  They have different designs for cutting plywood and other sheet goods, kiln dried wood, green wood, and I think one or two other categories.

If you have experience with hand saws, you can crosscut with a rip saw and rip with a crosscut saw, but after a couple times you wouldn't want to.  Harder sawing and poorer results.  Table saw blades also have different designs for the best results when ripping and crosscutting, and for specialty materials like melamine board.  A general purpose table saw blade will cut most everything okay, but not as well as rip, crosscut, and melamine blades.

The same is true with bandsaw blades.  Green wood creates lots of sawdust that doesn't clear easily, so larger gullets are needed.  Sheet goods dull teeth more quickly, hence a design specifically for them, and so on.

I expect Ellis and the other equally well known bandsaw blade suppliers also have different designs for different materials.
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