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Glue Blocks (Read 968 times)
 
Ed Weber
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Glue Blocks
Nov 18th, 2015 at 11:07am
 
When using glue blocks  don't think I have ever considered using an end-grain glue block.
Does anyone really think this is a good idea?
I only ask because I received an email from AAW with this tip

Shop tip from AAW

Waste blocks
Instead of cutting waste blocks using the bandsaw or with a hole saw, I glue scrap boards together in layers to form lengths 3" thick by 20" long (8 cm by 50 cm). I turn the lamination to a cylinder of a diameter that will fit my chuck. I cut thicknesses as needed, using the bandsaw with the cylinder safely held in a V block.

I generally use a section that is 2" (50 mm) thick so that the project is kept away from the chuck, but you may wish to have the bottom of the turning blank rest on the shoulder of the chuck jaws for additional support.

Because I am gluing endgrain, I use five-minute epoxy to glue the waste block to the turning stock. It is a nice way to make use of bland or damaged wood.


- Thomas J Daluisio, Virg
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Glue Blocks
Reply #1 - Nov 18th, 2015 at 11:43am
 
I use end grain glue blocks when I'm turning lids for jars that are 2"-3" in size. The upside is they re-seat in the chuck better than side grain glue blocks.

Another time I use end grain glue blocks is when I do mirrors (similar to John Locus style) and the use double stick tape. The pieces are typically 7" or so wide and 0.75" to 0.5" thick.

I don't think I would use end grain blocks for a bowl.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Glue Blocks
Reply #2 - Nov 18th, 2015 at 11:56am
 
I've used end-grain blocks for Jam chucks but not for bowls.
To each his own, turn safely
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John Cepko
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Re: Glue Blocks
Reply #3 - Nov 18th, 2015 at 3:29pm
 
Just because you can get away with it sometimes, it is not a good practice to glue end grain.

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Tom Coghill
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Re: Glue Blocks
Reply #4 - Nov 18th, 2015 at 5:07pm
 
When I use a glue block I do NOT try to perfectly mate the two pieces.  I prefer to recess the center of the waste block and I try to get a good match around the outer most segment of the glue block.  I believe most of the strength is gained the further out from the center.  I try to focus on getting the outer 50% aligned/mated.

I would hate to have the center too high causing a poor connection. Angry

Additionally, this makes it easier to part-off the glue block later.

I usually recess the center 1/4-inch or so... Thumbs Up

Oh, and I use Tightbond glue.   Thumbs Up
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Ed Weber
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Re: Glue Blocks
Reply #5 - Nov 18th, 2015 at 6:26pm
 
Thanks guys, at least I'm not the only one.

I just thought it strange for this method to be sent in a email as a  "shop tip from AAW"
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Guy Bratt
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Re: Glue Blocks
Reply #6 - Nov 18th, 2015 at 11:13pm
 
   I've used end grain glue blocks for my laminated/segmented bells.  When I do this I turn a recess in the end of the glue block, I turn a matching tenon on my glue up. It's more of a side to side grain attachment then.  Sounds like Tom's method.
  This usually happens when I screw up and make the blank to short.   
   It would be a very light project if I were glue end to side grain.
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« Last Edit: Nov 18th, 2015 at 11:18pm by Guy Bratt »  

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Tom Coghill
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Re: Glue Blocks
Reply #7 - Nov 19th, 2015 at 7:49pm
 
Why do you use Glue Blocks?? Huh

I do because wood is hard to come by here in Alaska so I don't want to waste it if I can help it.  I attach a glue block to get more miles from the wood I can get. Thumbs Up

how about you?
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« Last Edit: Nov 19th, 2015 at 7:50pm by Tom Coghill »  
 
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