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Plate legs (Read 821 times)
william trench
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Plate legs
Dec 27th, 2015 at 8:41am
 
Here is something I payed with a couple of years ago. The bases are segmented cones to orient the grain for the legs and the profile of the cone, turned,  provides the shape and thickness of the leg, the way molding is "returned". If I recall, these both measured about 11".
Bill
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Bert Delisle
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Re: Plate legs
Reply #1 - Dec 27th, 2015 at 9:47am
 
Great idea, nice prentation of the feature bowl. I had thought of doing something like that, now I know I have to, thanks for the inspiration.
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Col Smith
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Re: Plate legs
Reply #2 - Dec 27th, 2015 at 10:57pm
 
Nice job there.
Could you please get a photo of  the underside ?

Cheers
Col
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Steve Doerr
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Re: Plate legs
Reply #3 - Dec 27th, 2015 at 11:43pm
 
Very nice.  I really like this idea.  Are the feet a separate piece or is it attached?  Like Col, pictures of the underside with be great if you have any.
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Breck Whitworth
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Re: Plate legs
Reply #4 - Dec 28th, 2015 at 11:56am
 
William I absolutely love the one on the right with the turned look on the legs. Please take a pic. of the under side because I will have to also try this. Great job! I am also inspired by this type work Thumbs Up
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« Last Edit: Dec 28th, 2015 at 11:57am by Breck Whitworth »  

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william trench
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Re: Plate legs
Reply #5 - Dec 28th, 2015 at 1:30pm
 
These are some of the first things I tried coming from a cabinet and furniture  experience. I like the way the classic architectural molding profiles translate to turning. Any 19th century molding profile book will show all the right proportions and relationships of coves, beads, OG's , etc. :  a great place for ideas. I wanted the grain in the legs to run properly , hence the glued up cone. I made a bunch of vessels that hang down through the base, this is one of the first efforts. The bases are glued to the plate/vessel but would not be necessary if the top ring is large enough . I cut a flat( a circular rabbet if you will)  in the vessel to allow glue surface for the base.
The cone ( hollow) must have a diameter high up that is proportional to the vessel and have the right number of segments so the legs don't fall on a joint. Once the outside profile's done ( determined  by the base ring and the leg profile - this is a quickly drawn example) , the inside gets thinned out and it helps towards the end to drill out a space between the legs so you can gauge the thickness. I then use a standing jig saw with a modified foot instead of a table, followed by a Dremel and files.
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Re: Plate legs
Reply #6 - Dec 28th, 2015 at 1:36pm
 
Great idea Bill
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