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HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW (Read 961 times)
 
Philip Haynes
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HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Aug 19th, 2016 at 8:06pm
 
I hope this is the right place to ask a question without getting it cut.
Does anybody have a idea to use only the sled to resaw without a fence.  No matter what I try the fence gets the wood in a bind?  Thanks  Philip
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Thanks Philip
 
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #1 - Aug 19th, 2016 at 8:19pm
 
Philip Haynes wrote on Aug 19th, 2016 at 8:06pm:
Does anybody have a idea to use only the sled to resaw


What are you trying to cut? Type of wood and size would be helpful as well as bandsaw info. I use a sled on my bandsaw often so hopefully I can help.
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Philip Haynes
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #2 - Aug 19th, 2016 at 8:49pm
 
I'm cutting popular, sweetgum and alot of cherry.  I;m using a 30 year old 14" Rockwell bandsaw.  It cut great using a sled I made but it takes to much time and a lot of for error measuring one at a time.
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #3 - Aug 19th, 2016 at 9:01pm
 
Philip Haynes wrote on Aug 19th, 2016 at 8:49pm:
but it takes to much time and a lot of for error measuring one at a time.


Can you make a temporary stop block on the sled so you don't have to measure each time.
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robo_hippy
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #4 - Aug 19th, 2016 at 11:02pm
 
Resawing can be done 2 ways, rough for turning stock, which most of us use. Then you can resaw fine veneers that are 1/16 thick and need almost no sanding, which is just short of rocket science... So, first is to make sure your saw is set up straight and square. If you are going to use a fence, then you need to make sure the fence is dead true to the blade. This can be the difficult part since most blades are not very wide and it is difficult to measure it out perfectly. One of the bandsaw set up books tells how to get this close. Another method is a high fence with a round post for the vertical part, and it is lined up with the teeth of the blade and you correct as you go. Most of the time for me, I use a pencil line and cut to that. Chalk line works well also. Of course to get boards/cuts with parallel sides, the bottom surface needs to be dead flat, and the sides parallel to the blade. I have seen some fence set ups that are commercially made, but most of the time I do not need that kind of accuracy.

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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #5 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 7:55am
 
I use a fence/block like this

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Then I cut following a line that I drew and with a little practice it isn't hard.

robo_hippy wrote on Aug 19th, 2016 at 11:02pm:
first is to make sure your saw is set up straight and square.

+1
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Ed Weber
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #6 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 9:32am
 
robo_hippy wrote on Aug 19th, 2016 at 11:02pm:
Resawing can be done 2 ways, rough for turning stock, which most of us use. Then you can resaw fine veneers that are 1/16 thick and need almost no sanding,


While I don't necessarily "disagree", these are only 2 types of re-sawing which are the extremes. Re-sawing can be done in many methods depending on what outcome your looking for. 
robo_hippy wrote on Aug 19th, 2016 at 11:02pm:
Another method is a high fence with a round post for the vertical part, and it is lined up with the teeth of the blade and you correct as you go.

If you don't have your saw aligned properly(whatever method you use) it will be almost impossible to ge a parallel cut. The method Reed described and the photo Ron showed are good ways of re-sawing without having to rely on fence and/or blade alignment.

What size are the pieces being cut? How high, how thick and how long
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Ron Sardo
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #7 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 10:52am
 
On really hard hardwood I use a table saw with an very thin kerf blade (thin circular saw blade) to cut a groove on both sides of the board. I only go into the wood about an 1/2"-1" or so. Then I go to the bandsaw, without any fence, and cut into the kerf splitting the wood in two.

The thin kerf act somewhat like bandsaw guides, and yes, you will still need to guide the wood through to stay in the kerf.

Squareness really matters, and try not to rush the cut. Pushing to hard will knock everything out of wack, so take your time.
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #8 - Aug 20th, 2016 at 11:19am
 
I haven't seen it posted previously but what kind of blade are you using and HP of your saw and the over-all width of the wood you're trying to re-saw?

You did reference in your initial post that you've done it successfully in the past but are looking for a quicker way to get through the process.  I've done some re-sawing in the past and on those occasions where it's been the most successful my saw had to be tuned quite closely and executed with care.
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #9 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 5:51am
 
The problem with resawing with a fence is that small bandsaw blades rarely track perfectly straight. A slight difference in the set of the teeth on either side or the slightest difference in sharpness will cause the blade to cut to one side and  the wood can either jam against the fence or walk away from it. The single point block as Ron showed , set right at the front edge of the teeth, will let you adjust the angle for a straight cut. If the problem is severe or you get cupping in your cut you need a new blade.
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Ron Sardo
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #10 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 8:17am
 
william trench wrote on Aug 21st, 2016 at 5:51am:
A slight difference in the set of the teeth on either side or the slightest difference in sharpness will cause the blade to cut to one side and  the wood can either jam against the fence or walk away from it.

+1
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #11 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 8:22am
 
There a free bandsaw tutorial on Crafsty you may want to look up.
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #12 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 9:51am
 
I think we've entered the two schools of thought here.

william trench wrote on Aug 21st, 2016 at 5:51am:
The problem with resawing with a fence is that small bandsaw blades rarely track perfectly straight. A slight difference in the set of the teeth on either side or the slightest difference in sharpness will cause the blade to cut to one side and  the wood can either jam against the fence or walk away from it.

This is easily corrected by the tracking adjustment.
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #13 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 7:51pm
 
The two methods - post and fence - have been presented already.  The one comment I remember about a fence is that it should not extend very far beyond the back of the blade because the thin piece being cut off might want to warp to the side due to internal stress in the chuck of wood.  Hope this makes sense.
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Re: HELP RESAW ON BANDSAW
Reply #14 - Aug 21st, 2016 at 10:22pm
 
Don Stephan wrote on Aug 21st, 2016 at 7:51pm:
The one comment I remember about a fence is that it should not extend very far beyond the back of the blade because the thin piece being cut off might want to warp to the side due to internal stress in the chuck of wood.  Hope this makes sense.

IMO
Not really much of an issue with the bandsaw, as the back of the blade is still moving in a downward direction. Where as a Table saw the rear of the blade is moving upward and can throw the wood once it's been pinched.
Take care when using any tool.
Tools don't have brains, you need to use your own.
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