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all or nothing white oak bowl? (Read 656 times)
 
lloyd harner
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all or nothing white oak bowl?
Aug 26th, 2016 at 10:10pm
 
so i was gifted a 100 year old green crotch of white oak. it started to try to go south from checking but i got the checking ruffed out of it and into a outer round bowl shape.  its back in a garbage bag for the next few days as im not sure when i can get back to it.  it will have the "Pith" in the bowl
im looking at doing a live edge bowl with a thin wall to let warp then true up the bottom.  what shoudl my wall thickness be on something like a 10 inch dia
i did a small scale test crotch salt pot and with the walls being as this as they were they didnt check out even with the limb centers in the middle of the form got nice egg shaped warp and didnt blow apart with 3/32 thick walls but that wass only a 3.5 inch pot.  any help welcome
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John Grace
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Re: all or nothing white oak bowl?
Reply #1 - Aug 27th, 2016 at 9:51pm
 
Prepare for an onslaught of any number of potential thicknesses.  Is this piece destined for 'art' for active usage?  My personal preferences only but I like my user pieces to have a just little more heft in them and it's something that resonates with my customers.  In the end, however, it's right when it looks right to you.  Good luck...John
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lloyd harner
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littlestown, Pennsylvania, USA
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Re: all or nothing white oak bowl?
Reply #2 - Aug 27th, 2016 at 10:55pm
 
not going for art persay but not needing it to be a useful piece
im more worried about thicknesss of the walls to be able to withstand the warp/dring ordeal
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Chris Gunsolley
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Appleton, Wisconsin, USA
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Re: all or nothing white oak bowl?
Reply #3 - Sep 3rd, 2016 at 10:07pm
 
lloyd harner wrote on Aug 27th, 2016 at 10:55pm:
not going for art persay but not needing it to be a useful piece
im more worried about thicknesss of the walls to be able to withstand the warp/dring ordeal


Lloyd,

Basically, the thinner you go on the walls, the more you'll minimize your chances of it cracking. If I were you, I'd turn it to have walls that are 4mm or less in thickness. I would not include the pith, as White Oak is particularly prone to cracking, but in any case, the fact that thinner walls will minimize the chances of it happening stands.

To further minimize the chances of cracking, after you turn it, saturate it in a penetrating oil such as mineral oil, and once the wood one application saturates, give it more. If you plan to ultimately finish it with a shell finish, such as with shellac or lacquer, I'd wait a few weeks on that while I saturate it in the penetrating oil to make sure it doesn't dry so fast that it cracks. I wouldn't be concerned about warpage, as that is usually attractive and adds to the character of the bowl.

I'm sure others will have additional advice for you, as John suggested, but that's how I'd approach it if I were you.   

Good luck!
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« Last Edit: Sep 3rd, 2016 at 10:08pm by Chris Gunsolley »  
 
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lloyd harner
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littlestown, Pennsylvania, USA
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Re: all or nothing white oak bowl?
Reply #4 - Sep 4th, 2016 at 10:32pm
 
have rounded it out and put a junk coat of poly on it.  it is mostly still whole right not but i do have 4 inch dpovetails cut in on both ends i have been keeping it bagged so i can return it as it moves a bit
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