Tony Rozendaal wrote on Nov 29
th, 2016 at 8:09am:
I am constantly being reminded that if I don't roll the gouge over far enough, set the bevel at the angle I want to enter the wood and start my cut at the center line, it will skate on me.
That goes for most any spindle gouge.
If the cutting edge is not supported, it will be pushed back and you get the "skating' effect.
This is
basically how I cut these. To be honest, it's more of a "feel" than anything, Having to dissect your movements into step be step directions is not easy, I may forget (overlook) something.
Every cut is a downhill cutFor beads you should start with the flute at 12:00 straight up. Ride the bevel on the spindle and raise the handle until the tip starts to cut. Once the tool is engaged into the wood, you can begin to roll the tool in the direction you want to cut (left or right) to make one side of a bead.
When rolling the handle you will need the (simultaneously) raise it as well, this will keep the tip engaged in the cut as you move from the top of the bead to the bottom. Repeat the process, always starting the same way at the top (don't try to pick up the cut by starting in the middle) until the bead is shaped the way you want.
For coves you need to start with the flute vertical, facing 3:00 or 9:00 depending on which side of the cove you're cutting. Align the bevel on the gouge with the direction you want to cut. Next you need to establish the start of the cut by engaging the tip. This gives the tool support behind the cutting edge to avoid the "skate".
(for practice you can make a small start cut with a thin parting tool)
Once the tip is engaged in the wood, you can start to (simultaneously) rotate the handle as you push or "sweep" the cutting edge through the arch of the cut, When you get to the bottom of the cove the flute should straight up at 12:00. Repeat the process, always starting the same way at the top (don't try to pick up the cut by starting in the middle) until the cove is shaped the way you want.
Once you get more comfortable you may be able to pick up a cut mid-way through, just remember to
make sure the cutting edge is supported (rub the bevel)
before you start your cut.I will mention that some people have difficulty making both sides of their coves and beads even or uniform. One side is usually more difficult or at least uncomfortable to make, since most people are predominantly left or right handed. I usually switch hands for rolling the left or right because it's more comfortable to me. It also keeps me out of the line of fire and I don't have a need to use short handled tools to keep from hitting my body.
Hope this helps