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Veneer in segmenting (Read 471 times)
 
Bruce Kamp
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Veneer in segmenting
Mar 22nd, 2017 at 4:56pm
 
What do most of you do when using veneer in a segmented bowl? More specifically, I want to design what amounts to thin rings into designs. I am thinking less than 1/8" thick, sometimes thinner than that.
I have already tried a couple of methods. One is gluing a veneer strip to a thicker (higher) board before I cut the segments. I don't get to offset the layers then but with a "ring" so small I don't think it is noticeable.
The other method I have used is build a thicker ring, glue it to the bowl and then turn it to the thickness I want. This seems to work fine but it wastes a lot of wood.
What other methods are you using?
Thank you
Bruce
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Ed Weber
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Re: Veneer in segmenting
Reply #1 - Mar 22nd, 2017 at 8:48pm
 
I'll get my pet peeve out of the way first.
It's only veneer if it's on the outside, otherwise is just a very short segment.
Okay, I'm better.
I don't know what equipment you have.

I typically build a manageable size ring, something like 1/4" or 3/8" and then slice it into thinner segments on the bandsaw. Then I make the necessary passes through the drum sander.
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Grant Wilkinson
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Re: Veneer in segmenting
Reply #2 - Mar 23rd, 2017 at 12:17pm
 
I've done Ed's method with some success. My bandsawing was not great on the first one, so I started with just under 1/2" to get 2 rings at about 1/8" thick.

Before trying Ed's method, I glued up a ring of 1/8" thick segments. Clamping it was touchy, but it worked out OK. Open segment is quite easy.
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Grant Wilkinson
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Veneer in segmenting
Reply #3 - Mar 23rd, 2017 at 12:31pm
 
I realize that method is really a version of re-sawing. I have yet to get good at that. However, I realize what a great benefit it would be if I could get it to work for me. Ed, what size blade do you use on your bandsaw for this? The resaw blade I have been using is 3/8" with 3TPI. I have followed the Alex Snodgrass method of tuning the bandsaw and have seen significant improvement in my results but not good enough yet to resaw a thin ring. My rings have been in the 8" to 10" diameter range.
Thanks
Bruce
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Ed Weber
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Re: Veneer in segmenting
Reply #4 - Mar 23rd, 2017 at 2:30pm
 
I'll get back to you with some more detail and/or pictures.
I don't agree with A.S method of "tuning", I will not watch that video again.
A 3 TPI blade is too aggressive for this type of application, 6 TPI would be better.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Veneer in segmenting
Reply #5 - Mar 23rd, 2017 at 5:09pm
 
This should help you to make straight cuts with your bandsaw
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Grant Wilkinson
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Re: Veneer in segmenting
Reply #6 - Mar 24th, 2017 at 9:59am
 
I'll respectfully disagree with Ed on this one (unusual). I use a 3/8" 3tpi blade mainly because I'm too lazy to switch it out after my bowl blank sawing. When I've followed Ed's method, I hot glue the ring to a piece of MDF or plywood so that I have a flat service against the table, put the face of the MDF against a tall fence and saw slowly. As I said originally, my results are less than perfect, but all in all, it works OK.
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Grant Wilkinson
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Ed Weber
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Re: Veneer in segmenting
Reply #7 - Mar 24th, 2017 at 10:58am
 
Grant Wilkinson wrote on Mar 24th, 2017 at 9:59am:
'll respectfully disagree with Ed on this one (unusual)


Let's not make this a habit  Roll Eyes Grin

I don't rough out many thick blanks, so I don't keep a 3 or 4 TPI blade mounted.
Just like a tablesaw, finding a "general purpose" blade that handles the majority of your cutting tasks is difficult.
For me, (a lot more use than just woodturning tasks) a 6TPI is a good all around blade.
I prefer a smoother finished cut, to me it's worth the extra few moments it takes due to a slower feed rate.
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