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Beall polishing system (Read 840 times)
 
Bruce Kamp
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Beall polishing system
Mar 25th, 2017 at 11:10am
 
I am considering buying the system. I do mostly bowls so I am looking at getting the three separate buffs with the MT2 extender vs the 3 in 1 setup.
To date I have been buffing my finishes using pumice and rotten stone using mineral oil as the lubricant and a felt pad as the buffer. This gets a little messy but not bad.
How do you feel the two methods will compare?
Thanks
Bruce
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Ron Carrabotta
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #1 - Mar 25th, 2017 at 1:36pm
 
Bruce,

I've been using the Beall system since I got back into turning 7 years ago. I use it on almost all of my finished projects. I've also got the pads and mineral oil buffing system as well. Use the Beall 10x to1 vs the pads & oil. MUCH simpler.

Yes, for bowls get the separate buffs. You might want to consider getting both the wheels (original system) and the bowl buffs.

Just my $0.02, about 3 years ago, I stopped using the Carnauba wax that came with the system and now use Renaissance Wax, fewer fingerprints.

RC

ps. Don't use white diamond on Walnut! Cry
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« Last Edit: Mar 25th, 2017 at 2:01pm by Ron Carrabotta »  

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Steve Arnold
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #2 - Mar 25th, 2017 at 2:08pm
 
Ron Carrabotta wrote on Mar 25th, 2017 at 1:36pm:
ps. Don't use white diamond on Walnut!


OMG, is that ever the truth! Undecided
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #3 - Mar 25th, 2017 at 4:41pm
 
Good advice. I would guess that you get white in the grain, is that correct or is there another reason?
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #4 - Mar 25th, 2017 at 5:53pm
 

Bruce, I have had Jerry's stuff for a long time.

I use a variable speed motor to drive the buffing wheels and bobs.  If you use the lathe, you likely have variable speed.

I also use different compounds when I am buffing out wood and when I am buffing a film finish applied to the wood. 

If buffing a film finish be very sure it is fully cured. 

I took a few buffing lessons from a buddy that makes mirror smooth surfaces on autos including making lacquer magic. 



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Ron Carrabotta
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #5 - Mar 26th, 2017 at 10:12am
 
Bruce,

Yes, white in the grain. I don't use the white diamond on any dark colored open grained wood. Walnut, Mahogany....
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Rick Caron
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #6 - Mar 26th, 2017 at 12:23pm
 
I just stating using the beall system.  On a 6"  cherry bowl  i have a slight whitish haze on the inside.  Not near the top or the bottom, just in the middle.   I think it's  wax.   Can i run #0000 steel wool on that area, then rewax?
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Darryl Hansen
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #7 - Mar 26th, 2017 at 1:17pm
 
I always shoot a couple of coats of lacquer on my bowls then use the Beall disks. Never leave a white stain on anything dark or light. I use the buffs inside the bowls. Took the coarsest of the three disks off the three unit cause I don't finish uncoated wood.
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #8 - Mar 26th, 2017 at 3:44pm
 
I see that tripoli is the coarsest grit of the three with white diamond and then wax being the others. I have been using Behlen's rottonstone, using mineral oil as a lubricant, as a way to get a final, rather glossy finish. For a more matt finish I have used Behlen's 2 pumice after the finish has cured for a week or more.
Behlen's rottonstone is also labeled tripoli. So, I guess my question is will I get the same gloss effect with the Beall tripoli buff as I would with the Behlen"s hand rubbed?
Darryl says he doesn't use the tripoli buff at all because he doesn't buff bare wood. Right now I plan on applying some sort of finish coat to each of my projects.  If I apply a gloss poly as a finish coat and then wait for it to cure what do I start with tripoli or white diamond?
Also, if, as Ron says, no white diamond on dark, open grain wood then what should I use? I understand this problem as I have tried McQuires polish in the past on padouk and had a bad experience.
Thanks
Bruce
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #9 - Mar 26th, 2017 at 6:33pm
 
Ron Carrabotta wrote on Mar 25th, 2017 at 1:36pm:
Bruce,

I've been using the Beall system since I got back into turning 7 years ago. I use it on almost all of my finished projects. I've also got the pads and mineral oil buffing system as well. Use the Beall 10x to1 vs the pads & oil. MUCH simpler.

Yes, for bowls get the separate buffs. You might want to consider getting both the wheels (original system) and the bowl buffs.

Just my $0.02, about 3 years ago, I stopped using the Carnauba wax that came with the system and now use Renaissance Wax, fewer fingerprints.

RC

ps. Don't use white diamond on Walnut! Cry



I also do like Ron said but I do use the Carnauba wax then put the buff on about 200rpm and apply the Renaissance Wax it comes out very nicely, however, all of it does not last along time or a lot of handling.

I also never use white diamond on dark woods unless I want the affects like adding the white lime paste.

To me I have some rotten stone and it does not feel or look the same.  JMHO
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #10 - Mar 26th, 2017 at 9:08pm
 
Bruce,
To answer your question about bare wood versus finished wood.  You can use all three of them on either bare wood or wood with a finish.  Before I use the Beall buffs, I dip my turnings in oil. Once dry, I then use all three of the compounds to buff them out.  Remember when using the white diamond, you only put a very small amount on the buffing wheel while it is spinning.  I've been told the purpose of the white diamond is to remove the tripoli that gets on the wood from the first buffing.  I have also uses the tripoli and white diamond on my CA finishes.

I have found that the bowl buffs (the balls) don't do as good a job as the wheels.  I would suggest getting both sizes of buffing wheels.
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robert baccus
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #11 - Mar 26th, 2017 at 9:45pm
 
The rotten stone--pumice thing is very primitive.  Use what car specialist's use--auto store liquid polishing compounds in various grits followed by liquid carnuba waxes.  Much easier and eliminates "burning".
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #12 - Mar 27th, 2017 at 9:48am
 
Thank you everyone for the input. Your responses have taught me a lot. I have ordered the system, three separate buffs plus the bowl buffs.
I am excited to try it on a project that I had used Behlen's on that I was disappointed in.
I will post the results.
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Mike Nathal
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #13 - Mar 27th, 2017 at 5:18pm
 
If you use a penetrating oil like Tung or walnut, or an oil/varnish blend like Danish, you will probably need to be more aggressive with the Tripoli wheel.  (Higher speeds, larger diameter wheel).  If you are buffing a film finish like lacquer or water- or oil- base poly, you need to be more gentle (slower rpms, smaller wheels, less pressure).  I believe the white diamond wheel significantly refines the polish, it does more than just remove the tripoli residue. 
I love my Beall buffs but would like to experiment more with the auto store liquid polishing compounds, which only make sense on film finishes.  And will do so when my tripoli and white diamond bars are worn away, approximately 2019.   Smiley
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Gary D Baker
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #14 - Mar 29th, 2017 at 7:06pm
 
I use 99.9% lacquer.  I have the beall system, but don't use it.  I apply three coats of lacquer, sanding at 400 between each coat to get a flat surface.  On the third coat I finish it off by buffing with 0000steel wool and renaissance wax ... then buff with a paper towel ... or towel ... whatever will buff it ... at 1,000 rpm ... and don't get it hot enough to melt the lacquer.

You will get a nice, rich shine that does not look like plastic and will be so welcoming to the touch that people won't put it down.
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #15 - Mar 30th, 2017 at 10:47am
 
Regarding the use of auto polishes, are they used in place of the tripoli and white diamond on the Beall buffs or do you just use other buffs?
Also, if these auto polishes are liquid how do you charge the buffs, just pour it on?
I realize the rotonstone an pumice are "old time" but I have been able to get the results i wanted, which is a not too much gloss and not a plastic look.
Thanks
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Ed Weber
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #16 - Mar 30th, 2017 at 11:02am
 
Bruce Kamp wrote on Mar 30th, 2017 at 10:47am:
Regarding the use of auto polishes,

There are so many products for the automotive paint industry it's unbelievable.
Some need to be buffed in, some need to be left to haze over, some are strictly polishing compounds (little or no abrasives) some are buffing compounds (abrasives in them) .
With literally hundreds of compounds all with different formulas and levels and/or sizes and shapes of abrasive particles, it's difficult to tell someone where to start.
Not to be a jerk, but you really need to figure out what you want your end result to be and then follow the directions on whatever product "says" it will give you that result.
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #17 - Mar 30th, 2017 at 4:16pm
 
Ed, thank. I think I understand that. I was just wondering how others use the auto polishers, liquid, paste, etc in conjunction with the buffing wheels.
I would think that is generally not a good idea to mix types of polish on a buff wheel, even if they are supposed to be the same grit. However, I may be wrong. That's why I asked.
What i am shooting for is a nice shine that is short of full gloss and leaves the piece feeling very smooth.
My Beall system is arriving early next week. I will just wait and play with that to see what I get and if it is close to what I want. Then go from there.
Thanks.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #18 - Mar 30th, 2017 at 4:55pm
 
Bruce, I think you'll be doing a bit of experimenting with different finishes until you're satisfied. I think you'll like it.

As a general rule,
IMO unless you've exhausted all the woodworking polishes and compounds, which s  highly unlikely, turning to the automotive products can just complicate things further.
These auto products are designed to work with automotive paints and clear coats. These auto finished are not the same as woodworking finishes so use an appropriate amount of caution (common sense) when using them.
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Breck Whitworth
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #19 - Mar 31st, 2017 at 7:57am
 
Bruce,
I will add my two cents even though you have been given good advice already. I still use my Beall buffing system on every utility bowl and most art pieces I make. The only change is I never use the carnauba wax anymore on anything that will be handled because of showing finger prints heaven forbid a drop of water hit a piece with C wax on it because it shows bad water spots. Since I have customers constantly handling my work it just makes since. I use Renaissance wax instead then buff it. (Problem solved) Every piece of wood IMHO looks better after buffing with the tripoli and white diamond.(except dark open grain wood with white diamond) 8" wheels are the best but I have the smaller ones also for smaller bowls. I agree the balls don't work as good as the wheels.
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« Last Edit: Mar 31st, 2017 at 7:59am by Breck Whitworth »  

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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #20 - Mar 31st, 2017 at 10:02am
 
Thank you for reminding me Breck. I just ordered some R wax too.
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Beall polishing system
Reply #21 - Apr 5th, 2017 at 10:49am
 
Early report on my Beall system. It is clearly better than the rotten stone /pumice routine. Easier, cleaner , and more consistent. You all said that but I had to learn for myself.   Smiley
Tried on both poly finished work and Danish oil finished work. On the poly it may give a little too much shine if I go through white diamond. May stop at Tripoli in the future. For cured oil it is great. Very smooth with a soft luster.
I have been following Dick Sing's method of a sanded in lacquer base with oil finish and that seems to polish the best so far.
Overall, very easy to work with and I love the results so far. Thanks for everyone's input. It certainly helped.
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