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Watco Danish Oil (Read 382 times)
 
Bruce Kamp
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Watco Danish Oil
Apr 3rd, 2017 at 2:02pm
 
What has been your experience in applying multiple coats of Watco Danish Oil (WDO)? I have noticed a slight difference with the second coat but after that it is difficult to notice much difference in the appearance due to the build up. WDO is a combination of oil and varnish so I guess there would be some build up.
While I was writing this I was on the phone to Rustoleum, the supplier of Watco. They told me that it does NOT build up. They said that once the wood is saturated, because of the oil, the finish will not longer completely dry. Interesting.
They also said that complete curing, off gassing, etc. takes 7-10 days. I wanted to know this because I intend to buff it out.
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Tony Rozendaal
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #1 - Apr 3rd, 2017 at 3:55pm
 
After two or three coats, depending on the wood, I get sort of a splotchy mess with areas that are glossing over with the finish and others that have not.  It works best not to let it get to that point and to buff it out with the beal sytem or something similar. If it does get to that point, some work with EEE on the buffing wheel will even it out.

Bottom line, I don't use it on a surface that I cannot buff. Because of that, I usually use wipe-on polyurethane on a lidded box.

Other may have different experiences.
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #2 - Apr 3rd, 2017 at 3:59pm
 
Thanks Tony. How long have you waited until you buff it with the Beall system? I know longer is better but I would guess that the curing rate is accelerated early on in the process and diminishes later on. Meaning that at some point it should be safe to buff.
Thanks
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Steve nix
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #3 - Apr 3rd, 2017 at 5:41pm
 
Typically after the odor is gone it has dried and  you can buff with no problems, I let cure 7-10 day before buffing.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #4 - Apr 4th, 2017 at 7:10pm
 
About two years ago I wanted to learn all I could about danish oil and wiping varnish.  I read everything I could find on the Internet (that seemed believable) and in books by Jeff Jewitt, Bob Flexner, and a third prominent finishing author.

The consensus seemed to be that wiping varnish produced in the shop is about a 50-50 blend of a varnish and a thinner.  I settled on the best grade of Sherwin Williams brand mineral spirits and Pratt & Lambert 38 gloss alkyd varnish.  It has worked well, although it skins over after a few days in a tightly sealed can, even using Bloxygen.

Again the consensus seemed to be that generic danish oil is a blend of mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil (BLO) and a varnish.  The literature generally is in terms of equal portions of each, but Jeff Jewitt suggested in one of his books 1/9 BLO, 4/9 mineral spirits and 4/9 varnish.  The rationale was that even this small portion of BLO was sufficient to warm the wood, and the more BLO in the mix the softer the cured finish.  And the consensus was that the branded Danish Oil likely had much less than 1/3 varnish, but it was impossible to determine.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #5 - Apr 4th, 2017 at 7:55pm
 
Don Stephan wrote on Apr 4th, 2017 at 7:10pm:
The rationale was that even this small portion of BLO was sufficient to warm the wood, and the more BLO in the mix the softer the cured finish.


I'm not sure what is meant by that.

Watco Danish Oil has gone through many changes over the years.

One SDS states,
"Natural drying and semi drying oils, rosin ester"
Another States
"Raw Linseed Oil, Soybean Oil, Hydrocarbon Resin"
What I'm assuming is the most current one from the Rustoleum site states
"Propietary Rosin Adduct Ester"
Unless you contact the manufacturer you'll never know what is in these finishes these days.
if you find a recipe you can reproduce over and over, I'd stick with it.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #6 - Apr 5th, 2017 at 6:46pm
 
Thanks for calling me out Ed, I was lazy and made a less useful contribution.

Boiled linseed oil (BLO) when applied to raw wood produces a look that some people refer to as warming the wood - generally darkening the wood slightly and accenting curl, blotching (not a defect in my mind), and other figure. 

BLO does not have to be applied full strength to produce the .  Experiment on some scrap wood comparing full strength BLO; and BLO and mineral spirits mixed 1:1, mixed 1:2 (1/3 - 2/3), mixed 1:4 ( 1/5 - 4/5), and 1:8 (1/9 - 8/9).  Let the samples cure overnight and then compare their appearances.

Shop mixed danish oil, combining mineral spirits, BLO, and varnish, produces the look of BLO on wood with some added protection due to the varnish component.  In one of his books, Jeff Jewitt suggests that a danish oil mix consisting of one part BLO, 4 parts mineral spirits and 4 parts varnish has enough BLO in the mix to produce the look of BLO on wood with more varnish protection than the typical equal parts mineral spirits/BLO/varnish formula for shop mixed danish oil.

Hope this clarifies.  Again, my apologies for being in a hurry to get to dinner in last night's post.
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Tim Hyatt
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #7 - Apr 6th, 2017 at 12:42pm
 
I have a blanket chest I put together years ago....over the course of a couple weeks, every other day (I was a firefighter at the time)....I would rub on a new layer, let it dry until my next day home, rub down with 0000 steel wool, then repeat...after about 7 or 8 coats, the finish started gaining some serious depth and a "glow" to it...To this day, it has a gorgeous finish on it, and i've had numerous people remark on how nice a finish it has....

unfortunately, the number of layers and time required makes it prohibitive for many turners.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Watco Danish Oil
Reply #8 - Apr 6th, 2017 at 3:21pm
 
Don Stephan wrote on Apr 5th, 2017 at 6:46pm:
Thanks for calling me out Ed, I was lazy and made a less useful contribution.


I wasn't calling you out, I just wanted to know the context. Everyone has a different definition of "warming'
My understanding of the 9 part recipe is to have,
1. just enough BLO to stain (warm) the wood (very small amount of protection)
2. Just enough thinning agent to carry the mixture for some penetration
3. just enough varnish to provide a small amount of protection, while still having enough driers to allow the BLO to fully harden.
Just like any recipe any change in the ratios can have less than desirable results.
No need for apologies
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