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Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax (Read 683 times)
 
Steve Doerr
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Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Apr 7th, 2017 at 10:26pm
 
I have been reading about the Renaissance wax and am thinking of switching from carnuba wax to it.  What is the application process for the Resaissance wax and how much do you use?  Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
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Tony Rozendaal
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #1 - Apr 8th, 2017 at 7:50am
 
It's wipe on/wipe off.  You really don't need to wait for it to dry. However, if the amount you "wiped on" is excessive, it takes a lot longer to "wipe off."

The container says that power buffing is not required or recommend, but some people do. I've done it both ways, but can't tell that power buffing makes a lot of difference.

I have only used it on pens and smaller items.
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Al Wasser
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #2 - Apr 8th, 2017 at 9:24am
 
One of the guys in my club did some testing.  Most people seem to drop the carnuba  and  go to the ren wax.  He found that you get a better shine if you put the Ren wax over the carnuba.  Do your own testing
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Ed Weber
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #3 - Apr 8th, 2017 at 10:45am
 
IMO
Ren wax is by far the best, great for metal, great for wood and just about anything else.
It leaves a much harder and more durable protective coating than carnuba.
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Dwight Rutherford
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #4 - Apr 8th, 2017 at 11:20am
 
I switched from carnuba to Ren wax a couple of years ago. Carnuba water spotted while Ren wax doesn't appear to. While Ren wax seems expensive, I don't have to use a lot of it , it goes a loooong  way! A small bonus is it's easier to apply.
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #5 - Apr 8th, 2017 at 3:13pm
 
Have been the carnuba wax route including using Trade Secret for Cars used for antique show cars.  Worked with several microcrystaline waxes including lee valley and ren wax. 

Evolved to two choices.  Johnson Paste Wax for ways on the lathe and utility pieces, or an protectorant use on autos called Rejex.

The protectant is an emulsion.  It has great shine and ignores fingerprints and wipes clean.  No waterspots.  It does make sanding/finishing misses very visible.   The Rejex does not require a buff, and is used very soft and very very slow.  Flannel cloth does well.

Heresy perhaps, but works well for the last few year.

Hard to beat Johnson's paste wax for marketing utility pieces.
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Len Layman
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #6 - Apr 8th, 2017 at 8:44pm
 
I use "Ren" wax on all almost all my stuff.  After the finished is cured.  I will put a light coat of Ren Wax n then buff it lightly.

If I have a show coming up I will use it to "freshen" the pieces I am displaying.

Just a note... It is not finish!  It used to protect and enhance the finish.
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Mike Turner
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #7 - Apr 9th, 2017 at 1:14pm
 
What do you have to do when you have the sanding misses Ken spoke of? Remove the ren wax with a solvent or ?  Ive never used it and finishing isnt my best right now on  bowls.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #8 - Apr 9th, 2017 at 3:04pm
 
Mike Turner wrote on Apr 9th, 2017 at 1:14pm:
What do you have to do when you have the sanding misses Ken spoke of?


Personally I would resolve the issue, regardless of difficulty.
If the wax reveals a defect, the defect needs to be repaired.
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #9 - Apr 9th, 2017 at 5:22pm
 
Russ Fairfield advocated sanding with wax (Johnson paste wax as I remember) and advised that a rinse or two with mineral spirits would clean off residue if one was concerned.

I have never worried about the wax if I found a need to recycle the prep.  Never hurts to wipe down with mineral spirits before starting the finish cycle again.

Silicones a different story as I have refinished silicone contaminated pieces for others.  Ugly!!!

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« Last Edit: Apr 9th, 2017 at 5:23pm by Ken Vaughan »  
 
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Mike Turner
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #10 - Apr 9th, 2017 at 5:33pm
 
Ed Weber wrote on Apr 9th, 2017 at 3:04pm:
Personally I would resolve the issue, regardless of difficulty.
If the wax reveals a defect, the defect needs to be repaired



I would too.I just didnt know if all the ren wax had to be removed or just a wipe down like Ken mentioned was sufficient
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Ed Weber
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #11 - Apr 9th, 2017 at 6:00pm
 

My point was, if I had to repair a "bad" section, the last thing I would be worried about would be the wax. One way or the other it'll get removed
As for getting off the wax itself, I use mineral spirits with a clean rag. You do need to keep a clean face of the rag (rotate often) or you just end up smearing the softened wax around.
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #12 - Apr 10th, 2017 at 12:15pm
 
All I use for wax is Ren. Bought can when started and still have 1/2 can or more. Use it on all my turnings.

Glenn J.
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #13 - May 21st, 2017 at 10:31am
 
I just started using Hampshire Sheen Gloss. I did a number of side by side comparisons on some pepper mills using Ren Wax and Hampshire Sheen and found there to a noticeable difference. The HS gave a far glossier finish then the Ren wax.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax
Reply #14 - May 21st, 2017 at 11:03am
 
Resulting sheen would be one area of interest.  Equally important might be resistance to smudging/fingerprints and waterspots.  Guess it depends on the relative importance of appearance during the sale and appearance in the customer's home after a couple uses.
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