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Drill bits (Read 788 times)
 
Matt Perrult
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Drill bits
Apr 17th, 2017 at 8:48am
 
Do they make a good long shanked Fostners bit or a long fluted bit? I need a 1" bit about 10" long so I can drill straight through blanks. I tried  to get an extension for a shorter bit but thee is just enough movement to let the bit stray off center. I searched the internet but I would appreciate a good recommendation.
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David Moeller
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #1 - Apr 17th, 2017 at 9:25am
 
I would try using a lamp auger bit on the lathe as a pilot hole then follow with the 1".  Drill as deep as you can before using the extension. 
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Bert Delisle
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #2 - Apr 17th, 2017 at 9:30am
 
Check out Craft Supplies USA, they carry this extension bar.
Carter Strongbore Modular Boring System
Part# 1057620001
I picked one up last year and it works as advertised, great for long hole drilling with 3/8" shaft forstner bits.
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #3 - Apr 17th, 2017 at 9:45am
 
Matt, odds are strong that your forstner did not start true if it "wandered".   That is because forstner bits guide on the outside rim, and are designed to follow the cylinder created. 

Best protocol with forstner bits and long holes is to start the hole with out the extension and after establishing the cylinder, adding the extension. 

A fluted bit seeks to center on the center point, but differences in grain, knots, etc can cause the point to deflect ( but not so much with 1 inch bits). 

I like forstners for the smooth holes in boxes and peppermills.  They do need to be sharp and the rim free of dings.

One option for long bits is morse tapered bits that fit directly into lathes or drill presses.  Larger diameters are costly with a 1 inch bit about $60

I use Colt bits with the colt mt taper adapter and extension for pepermills with good success.

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« Last Edit: Apr 17th, 2017 at 9:53am by Ken Vaughan »  
 
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Bill Neff
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #4 - Apr 18th, 2017 at 9:28am
 
On a long peppermill I usually drill the hole first then mount the blank between centers to round it.  This way the hole is centered even if the bit heads off center during drilling.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #5 - Apr 18th, 2017 at 9:41am
 
Matt, you might want to read this thread.
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We covered much of the same information your looking into.
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Matt Perrult
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #6 - Apr 18th, 2017 at 11:46am
 
I was thinking about this and has anyone tried a stepped bit? I don't need a one inch hole all the way through. I have a 3/4 and could drill that through first then come back with a stepped bit to get the one inch for the mechanism to sit right in the top.
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #7 - Apr 19th, 2017 at 10:11am
 

Matt, the stepped bits I have are designed to work on thin materials like sheet metal as the steps are short.  None of those I saw browsing Amazon had a max diameter of an inch. 

I think I would treat clearing out a small amount of wood like an end grain box.  I tend towards Hunter cup cutters, but a small gouge and a smaller square scraper would do nicely (and quickly). 

Bonnie Klein and Ray Key are two great box turners who use gouge and small acrapers. 

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Arlin Eastman
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Re: Drill bits
Reply #8 - Apr 20th, 2017 at 2:00pm
 
Matt

I bought some MT 2 drill bits and also bought a MT 2 extension that will allow them to go that deep.

Here is the link to the MT adapters

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Here are the drill bits

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I have a lot of different sizes and hope to replace all my regular drill bits with these

One thing I do before going to depth is do drill as far as I can with a short bit first to keep the bit from wondering then since it is straight I go to the bigger longer bit to finish it off
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« Last Edit: Apr 20th, 2017 at 2:06pm by Arlin Eastman »  

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