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Beal System (Read 827 times)
 
Rick Caron
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Beal System
Apr 22nd, 2017 at 8:54am
 
Instead of applying 10 coats of  homemade  formby's finish to get a slight sheen, i'm now using the Beal Buffing system.   I only now use 2 coats.  The bowls look good after just buffing with the white diamond.  Should i use the carnuba wax also?    If i use wax,  some one  said they don't like carnuba wax, should i instead use renaissance wax?    Smiley
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Ken Vaughan
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Re: Beal System
Reply #1 - Apr 22nd, 2017 at 10:18am
 
I have been using an auto protectant or paint sealant with good success.  It is a CorrosionX product and handles exterior wear and tear on my pickup in a wet marine environment.  Holds up better than waxes including the microcrystaline waxes.  It is named Rejex.

It goes on as an emulsion and is NOT applied with the buffing wheel.  After haze develops it can be polished with a soft very very slow flannel buff or cloth.

Finish under it needs to be fully cured before application.

Does not waterspot and handles light washing/cleaning.

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« Last Edit: Apr 22nd, 2017 at 10:19am by Ken Vaughan »  
 
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Arlin Eastman
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Re: Beal System
Reply #2 - Apr 27th, 2017 at 11:55am
 
Rick

Just a few questions.

1. What is the purpose of the bowls you are making?
2. How long do you want the finish to last?

I use the Beall buffing system for things like vases, goblets, and boxes.  A few things you need to know about the triplee and white diamond.  They both have grit in them to help reduce scratches in the wood and white diamond is the finest.  Carnauba wax is what is used after the first two, but what I use after that is Renaissance Wax with the same buffer for carnauba wax but with the rpm down to 500.   It comes out nicer and more finger proof to.

Now if you want the bowls to be used then I would use wipe on poly or lacquer and make sure you tell the individuals who you sell/give them to, to have them wash the bowls in soap and water only and not a dishwasher because the heat and hot water will crack the bowl.

Last Carnauba wax it so much harder then Renaissance wax which is a paste wax.  Two different things.
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« Last Edit: Apr 27th, 2017 at 12:05pm by Arlin Eastman »  

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Rick Caron
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Re: Beal System
Reply #3 - Apr 27th, 2017 at 1:28pm
 
Haven't turned any bowls meant to have salads in them yet. Just dry food, ai nuts, candy etc.   But would like to make some bowls for general use, maybe they would sell better.   i imagine natural edge bowls wouldn't be good for salads  because the bark might fall off?   Can i put wipe on poly over my finish ( 1/3 BLO, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 Varnish)     Just takes to long to apply 8-10 coats to build a sheen.  Maybe 1 coat of my finish then wipe on poly?
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Don Stephan
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Re: Beal System
Reply #4 - Apr 27th, 2017 at 7:04pm
 
If you are already used to using shop mixed danish oil, try omitting the BLO so you have just a wiping varnish.  I use Pratt & Lambert 38 alkyd varnish this way and 5 or 6 coats usually gets to a semi gloss.  And the cured finish stands up to regular use very well.  Wash with soft sponge and drop of mild dish soap, towel dry.  My daily milk and corn flakes red oak bowl going on 17 months now with no problem.  The sheen doesn't stand up to regular washing, even a soft sponge, but it's wonderful to have a wooden cereal bowl.
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Mike Nathal
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Re: Beal System
Reply #5 - Apr 28th, 2017 at 7:08am
 
Yes you can add wipe-on poly over your oil/varnish blend (Danish Oil).  1-2 coats of the Danish Oil produces a penetrating finish rather than a film finish.  Buffing a penetrating finish produces a nice shine and the wood still feels like wood.  Adding poly on top starts to produce a thicker film on the top of the wood.  Buffing helps film finishes too.  Many turners do not like the effect of a film finish, you hear that the wood "looks like plastic"  --- but they sell well. 
BTW, I always add a wax after the white diamond wheel.  Any of several work fine, including the carnauba wheel.
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Rick Caron
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Re: Beal System
Reply #6 - Apr 28th, 2017 at 10:57am
 
Some wood seems to like the wax better than others. I like maple, but the end grain is terrible.  Always looks dull,  and the wax seems to get a haze. So maybe on that type of wood skip the wax and go for the wiping poly? The way i've applying my 3 part mixture is to keep the bowl soaked for 5-10 minutes then paper towel dry.  How would you apply wiping varnish, or wiping poly without getting streaks?  bowl on lathe spinning very slow, or off the lathe.  Seems you wouldn't be able to paper towel dry the poly or varnish without it getting gummy.    Huh
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Arlin Eastman
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Re: Beal System
Reply #7 - Apr 28th, 2017 at 5:05pm
 
One other thing I do after putting Danish oil on first and letting it dry for a few days is apply a coat of Shellac and let it dry.  Anything almost can go over Shellac and that is why I like it so much.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Beal System
Reply #8 - Apr 28th, 2017 at 7:27pm
 
I rub a coat of my wiping varnish mix on with a piece of soft rag, outside and inside.  If the first or 2nd coat, I repeat.  Then I immediately scrub all surfaces as dry as possible with a clean paper towel.  If the paper towel is dragging, waited too long - rub on a thin coat and immediately wipe dry.  No smudges, drips, et cetera.  First coat dries overnight; second day one coat in morning and one late afternoon; after that three coats a day until desired sheen.

Experiment on scrap.
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Mike Nathal
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Re: Beal System
Reply #9 - Apr 29th, 2017 at 7:24am
 
Rick Caron wrote on Apr 28th, 2017 at 10:57am:
Some wood seems to like the wax better than others. I like maple, but the end grain is terrible.  Always looks dull,  and the wax seems to get a haze. So maybe on that type of wood skip the wax and go for the wiping poly? The way i've applying my 3 part mixture is to keep the bowl soaked for 5-10 minutes then paper towel dry.  How would you apply wiping varnish, or wiping poly without getting streaks?  bowl on lathe spinning very slow, or off the lathe.  Seems you wouldn't be able to paper towel dry the poly or varnish without it getting gummy.   



I have not had trouble with maple;  if the end gain is dull, add more DO or poly.  In my experience 3-4 coats of DO is sufficient for maple.  The surface is a matte sheen before buffing and gloss/semigloss after buffing.  Let it fully cure before buffing. You seem to be asking "wax or poly".  It really should be "poly + wax".  The poly goes on either by itself or on top of DO, and then buffing, with the wax as the final step.    I also apply poly and DO with small cloth squares.  I do not usually scrub the finish like Don does, but I do need to sand between coats on occasion.
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Rick Caron
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Re: Beal System
Reply #10 - Apr 30th, 2017 at 9:16am
 
Think i'll try 1/3 BLO, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 varnish,  for first soaking coat. Then just varnish, mineral spirits, then
the BEAL system.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Beal System
Reply #11 - Apr 30th, 2017 at 12:43pm
 
Rick Caron wrote on Apr 30th, 2017 at 9:16am:
Think i'll try 1/3 BLO, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 varnish,  for first soaking coat. Then just varnish, mineral spirits, then
the BEAL system.


BLO = polymerized oil
Mineral spirits = thinner, carrier
Varnish = hardening top coat
you've just made your own danish oil
"Then just varnish, mineral spirits" = wipe-on poly
"then the BEAL system" = cut back the thin coat of home made wipe on poly and coat with wax.

As has been mentioned above,
What do you want the piece to look like?
How will the piece be used?
You really need to answer both of these questions before you start any finish application.
The Bealle system is not a substitute for traditional finish. it's merely a process of polishing and applying a layer of wax.

This is just my opinion



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Rick Caron
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So many logs, so little
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Re: Beal System
Reply #12 - Apr 30th, 2017 at 2:12pm
 
What if i want to turn some bowls for use and some just for show. So far they've all been for show.  Use my 3 part and Beal for show,  and what for use.  I have a mixture of mineral oil/ beeswax.  Is that good enough for usable bowls?
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Ed Weber
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Re: Beal System
Reply #13 - Apr 30th, 2017 at 5:44pm
 
It's up to you but...
All finishes deteriorate over time to a certain degree. A wax coating on a finish will wear off quickly with daily use and the piece wil no longer have the "look' that it did when it was new.
people what buy or are given a wooden bowl usually don't want to have to adhere to a maintenance schedule to keep up the look of their bowl.
So again, it depends on thelook you want, matte, satin, semi-gloss or gloss
For a utilitarian finish, you are most likely going to want something that penetrates to provide protection below the surface without flaking or chipping off. Tung oils, walnut oils and off the shelf salad bowl finishes come to mind. These types finish can be buffed if you want but usually look good straight from the container with no extra effort.

That's my opinion,I'm sure others will offer their input
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Rick Caron
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Re: Beal System
Reply #14 - May 2nd, 2017 at 8:18pm
 
I read that a natural finish like   beeswax/ mineral oil is good for salad bowls   because the  salad dressing   will over time  produce a patena. True?    Cheesy
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