Mike Mills wrote on May 17^th, 2017 at 2:22pm:

You can call it whatever you want and hold it however you want, it wasn't the language that confused me.
From your description, I don't understand why or how (I can only guess in conjunction with the tailstock) you would use a drive center for "small platter, saucer, or other thin item"
I don't understand this approach to work holding.

Mike Mills wrote on May 22^nd, 2017 at 7:55am:

That part is true, but the other half of the equation is that in the event of a catch, they are "designed" to work as a slip-clutch mechanism. This means providing an outlet for the turning force so that, primarily the operator and secondarily the piece, suffer little or no damage.

In  the event of a catch with a traditional 4-prong drive center, you will usually have one of two things happen.
1. The tool will dig in further before it eventually kicks the tool out and creates a larger damaged area, since the drive continues to turn the spindle.
2. The tool stops the spindle entirely, leaving only one place for the turning force to be released, splitting the spindle.
A steb center eliminates both of those potential safety hazards.

If you look at Lyle Jamieson videos on youtube, you will see that he starts all of his bowls between centers using a Steb in the headstock. This way, he can change the centers around until the blank is balanced, and then move the centers marginally while turning it to get the best grain and feature orientation.

Ed: that's one of the videos that I was thinking of. In that one, Lyle is using a prong center, but the same idea holds using a steb.

As an aside, like you, I generally start with a blank a bit more refined. I tend to cut them round on my bandsaw first. I still get heavy spots, though, and Lyle's process works well. I've also learned from Lyle's method that I can get better grain symmetry than I did when I stuck a face plate on the blank from the start.

Grant Wilkinson wrote on May 23^rd, 2017 at 11:44am:


You didn't post a link so I provided an example. (took a shot)
I'm well aware of what he is doing in his process with regards to grain alignment but I confess, I didn't get that from Mike's description. (if he's referring to the same thing).

As always, everyone has their own way of doing things. I am only trying to clarify for myself and others that either don't know of a different process or don't understand the explanation of a certain process.

I finally realized what was missing.  When I said "and small dry face work under about 7"."  I should have said "to start small dry face work....". 
In a Jimmy Clewes workshop one of the items we turned was a small platter (saucer) of QS sycamore 3/4 thick.  Starting between centers the top was slightly dished out and a tenon formed; then reversed holding the tenon with a chuck and then bottom was formed with a recess; then reversed again to finish the top.  Starting with the steb meant it did not have to be "set" into the wood as the teeth are sharp enough.
I did not make the connection that folks may think the entire project was turned with just a steb.  Sorry 'bout that.

Whether it is purchased for grip or for safety (slippage) is up to the buyer.
Mine are the cheapo PSI but they work fine for me (<$30 on Amazon).
I did check Sorby and PSI but my eyesight leaves much to be desired.  I could only find references to the superior hold/grip in their descriptions.
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I did look at your facebook and that is some mighty fine scroll work.

Alan Stratton posted this video a two days ago where he turned a scroll sawn item.  I know it is not up to what you do but it may give you some ideas.  He also shows a different approach (friction chuck) for starting the item.
Gave me an idea for next Christmas for some in-laws that fish a lot... a coin/key bowl 3/4" thick (1/2" deep) in the shape of a fish.
You can skip the first 2 minutes in this video.
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