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Continuing the Rim Thickness Inside Bowls (Read 251 times)
 
Don Stephan
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Continuing the Rim Thickness Inside Bowls
May 28th, 2017 at 10:49am
 
As I turn more bowls, my enjoyment for sanding seems to continue decreasing. Grin

I'm one of the odd ducks that likes once turned bowls, so I'm always turning green wood.  A few months ago I finally realized the value of taking the first inch or so inside the bowl to final wall thickness, then the next inch, and so on.  Especially if the wall thickness is less than 3/8", the wood is already moving (warping) in response to drying out.

My frustration is trying to pick up and continue the wall thickness where I stopped, and even more so trying to take off a whisker or so where the wall thickness is slightly thicker.  Too often where I start the cut I get a narrow groove from starting with the bevel angled too deep.

Perhaps the problem is starting the gouge at that particular spot and moving the handle to the right until the tool starts to cut?  Is it better to start higher on the wall and swing the handle to the right (to pick up the cut) as the tool tip is moving down the wall?  If so, for those able to do this do you do this in discrete increments or continually swing the handle to the right while moving down the wall, until the shaving begins?  (My vision of discrete increments would be to start above the desired starting point, move the handle a fraction to the right and move down the wall; if the tip doesn't pick up a shaving at the desired point move the tip back up the wall, swing the handle another fraction to the right and move down the wall, and so on).
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Ed Weber
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Re: Continuing the Rim Thickness Inside Bowls
Reply #1 - May 28th, 2017 at 11:46am
 
Don Stephan wrote on May 28th, 2017 at 10:49am:
(My vision of discrete increments would be to start above the desired starting point, move the handle a fraction to the right and move down the wall; if the tip doesn't pick up a shaving at the desired point move the tip back up the wall, swing the handle another fraction to the right and move down the wall, and so on).


From your description, IMO this is the best approach. If you allow yourself (leaving enough materiel) to overlap the beginning of the new cut with the end of the previous cut, you typically get a better transition. Trying to pick up a previous cut at the exact spot can be tricky and is exaggerated on a warped (not perfectly round) bowl. The slight overlapping area also makes blending the two different stage cuts easier when sanding.
I don't turn green wood if I can avoid it (I've done it and don't like it) others who do may have more/better input.
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robo_hippy
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Re: Continuing the Rim Thickness Inside Bowls
Reply #2 - May 28th, 2017 at 12:09pm
 
This is where shear scraping and in some cases the negative rake scraper (NRS) come in handy, to blend in that dang spot.... I prefer a scraper with a ) nose profile, or a round nose one, and a fresh burr, or burnished burr. Keep the handle low (so you can not contact the wood on the high side of the tool and get a massive catch), and do very gentle pull cuts. It usually takes several passes. The NRS works better on harder woods and not as well on softer woods. They also work far better for sweeping across the bottom and into the transition, but not as well on the walls of a bowl as any scraping cut will tend to pull/tear side grain.

Another part is "the bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it". We all understand this, but it is difficult to put into practice. On the inside of the bowl, you push into the cut, but not into the wall of the bowl. Even the slightest push towards the wall of the bowl will make it flex.

I need to do videos on both. I had thought I had the rub the bevel part down till I watched Ashley Harwood turn her delicate 6 inch plus long ebony finials. She was not using her other finger as a steady rest on the spindle.... Ashley, I have to go home and practice my dainty skills....

Oh, part of the bowl going oval as you turn, the way I figure it any way, is because the bowl is elastic/stretchable, you have different grain patterns, and it will move more one direction than the other, and this is even more so at higher speeds...

robo hippy

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Ed Weber
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Re: Continuing the Rim Thickness Inside Bowls
Reply #3 - May 28th, 2017 at 7:23pm
 
robo_hippy wrote on May 28th, 2017 at 12:09pm:
Ashley, I have to go home and practice my dainty skills....


As Harry Callahan would say, "A man's GOT to know his limitations"  Smiley
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Don Stephan
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Re: Continuing the Rim Thickness Inside Bowls
Reply #4 - May 28th, 2017 at 7:51pm
 
Smiley Wink Cheesy Grin Thumbs Up
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robert baccus
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Re: Continuing the Rim Thickness Inside Bowls
Reply #5 - Jun 18th, 2017 at 10:00pm
 
Hence the reason for twice turning resulting in a round bowl or vase.  Way easier to sand and finish--not to mention embelish.
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