Woodturner's Resource
Woodturner's Resource  
  • Featured Artist    • Websites   Support Wr
Tutorials, Projects & Tips   • Event Calendar   • Tool and Book Store
  Home Page Forum HelpSearch Map TPT Resources LoginRegister
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print
Basic Help (Read 320 times)
 
JosephDaniel Smith
WR Noob
Offline


WR Rocks!

Posts: 2

Port Lavaca, Texas, Texas, USA
Port Lavaca, Texas
Texas
USA

Gender: male

currently the Harbor freight one......Looking
Basic Help
Jun 23rd, 2017 at 3:43pm
 
Greetings, Salutations, etcetera...

Once removed from the chuck a bowl will never go back the same?...this is how it has been for me,, I turn some nice stuff, (ask anybody at my church,ha)

A cone on a m2 taper that goes into the tailstock for centering a piece in the headstock,.What is the thing called and where can I get it?

And another thing, I saw a chuck somewhere on this site that looked as if it had 6 or more jaws???

One last question, where do you buy the blank turning chisels, without handle, just the bar,,DIY grind?

This site is a treasure and I am in awe to all of you.
Back to top
  
 
IP Logged
 
Louie Powell
WR Devotee
*****
Offline



Posts: 655

Saratoga Springs, New York, USA
Saratoga Springs
New York
USA

Gender: male

PSI 12" Turncrafter Commander
Re: Basic Help
Reply #1 - Jun 23rd, 2017 at 4:17pm
 
Once removed from the chuck a bowl will never go back the same?.
-  Maybe.  Wood does move over time, so it is possible that a bowl won't go back exactly the way it came off.  But if you mark the position of one of the jaws, and remount the bowl in exactly the same position, you will minimize the problem.  Obviously, having multiple chucks is a better (ie, more expensive) solution because you don't have to take the bowl off the chuck. 

A cone on a m2 taper that goes into the tailstock for centering a piece in the headstock.What is the thing called and where can I get it?
- Livecenter.  Most woodworking shops sell them.  You can purchase livecenters that have a threaded end to accept 'noses' of various shapes, including those you make yourself. 

And another thing, I saw a chuck somewhere on this site that looked as if it had 6 or more jaws???
-  Probably the PSI 6-jaw chuck.  They introduced it a couple of years ago, but my sense is that it hasn't really taken off in the market.  Frankly, I don't see the point - a four jaw chuck works just fine.

One last question, where do you buy the blank turning chisels, without handle, just the bar,,DIY grind?
-  These are specialty items.  I think Thompson sells unhandled tools in the US, also Robert Sorby in the UK.  They come with a grind but you can always regrind them if you wish.  Another option is carbide - this is a new kind of turning tool that has become very popular with beginners because there is less risk of a catch and because they don't need sharpening (they last a long time, and are disposable when they become dull).  You can purchase fully assembled tools, but it's less expensive to buy cutters and then make up everything else.  You buy the cutter from a supplier (Captain Eddy, Arizona Carbide, etc), use ordinary bar stock from Ace Hardware, and turn the handle to fit your preferences.
Back to top
  

Louie
 
IP Logged
 
robert baccus
Junior Member
*
Offline


WR Rocks!

Posts: 46

Gender: male
Re: Basic Help
Reply #2 - Jun 23rd, 2017 at 10:49pm
 
I think the tailstock taper piece you are refereing to is a oneway live center in most catalogs.  Most turners go to them in time.  Also in refernce to Powell's reply about many chucks try the ring chucks in the Craft supplies catalog--about 24$.  Been using a local made set for 25 years that were half that price and love them.  The cones are reversible for 2 way centering as well.
Back to top
  
 
IP Logged
 
Don Stephan
WR Addict
*****
Offline


WR Rocks!

Posts: 1,441

Cincinnati, Ohio, Ohio, USA
Cincinnati, Ohio
Ohio
USA

Gender: male
Re: Basic Help
Reply #3 - Jun 25th, 2017 at 10:40am
 
JosephDaniel

It can be difficult to provide the sought information in total when questions are posed naked, out of context.  Not complaining, just cautioning that you may not get full or best answers to your questions.

If you are turning dry wood with well prepared tenons or mortises and good quality chucks and jaws, and mark the location of one jaw on your work, you should get pretty good registration when re-mounting work.  If you are turning green wood, there will be some non-symmetric shrinkage as the wood dries, which can affect registration when remounting.  I try to locate the middle of the growth rings in the middle of jaw 1 for that reason.  I don't make twice turned bowls, but use the lathe and chuck as a clamp when sanding the dried bowl and am satisfied with the registration I get.  One tip, if forming a tenon to turn around once-turned bowls, bring up the tailstock so that the pointed center makes a dimple in the middle of the tenon.  This registration mark is very helpful after sanding, and there is a need to turn off the tenon.

The ring chucks are an interesting idea, but keep in mind they will pose problems if screwed to green bowl blanks.  During drying and the inevitable non-symmetric shrinkage of the blanks, some of the screws will be opposing the needed shrinkage and this conflict may pose problems.
Back to top
  
WWW  
IP Logged
 
Grant Wilkinson
WR Supporter
*****
Offline



Posts: 420

Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Ottawa
Ontario
Canada

Re: Basic Help
Reply #4 - Jun 25th, 2017 at 4:15pm
 
JosephDaniel: As Don said, more info from you may get you better replies. For example, why are you removing your bowl from the chuck, then replacing it? Are you doing something to the incomplete bowl before you re-chuck it?
Back to top
  

Grant Wilkinson
Ottawa ON
 
IP Logged
 
robert baccus
Junior Member
*
Offline


WR Rocks!

Posts: 46

Gender: male
Re: Basic Help
Reply #5 - Jun 25th, 2017 at 10:51pm
 
Sorry--forgot to mention I normally use a glueblock screwed to the ring chuck and everything stays straight while drying.  I have plenty of rings which helps.  These are very quick to change pieces while sanding/finishing  several at one time.
Back to top
  
 
IP Logged
 
JosephDaniel Smith
WR Noob
Offline


WR Rocks!

Posts: 2

Port Lavaca, Texas, Texas, USA
Port Lavaca, Texas
Texas
USA

Gender: male

currently the Harbor freight one......Looking
Re: Basic Help
Reply #6 - Jun 30th, 2017 at 2:59pm
 
Thanks to all. A lot of help in those posts. I found  that I could turn a large cone that would fit over my live center.

This solves my problem of returning bowl to the chuck, by
using the cone to center the work piece.

At 72 years old I am learning a lot of delightful interesting things. Life is good.. polyurethane and sanding between coats for that deep finish. I have found that the finish will magnify mistakes (sanding streaks) I do segments usually over a hundred pieces of different patterns/woods. Limited only by my imagination. And of course,, what I see others doing on this and other forums. I have good support equipment, band saws, table saw, chop saw and sanders, the bad link is this harbor freight lathe.

I cant find the address of the old man that u tubed the turning of the piece to fit over the larger (1 and 1/4?1/2?) live center... this was an eye-opener for me. None of us should be so arrogant to think we do not need others... That... is the treasure found here. I read all the posts. My internet connection is spotty at times,,, the Texas coast is very windy. 
Detail in a turned piece is everything, and deserves the very best of finishing. I have tried them all with very mixed results. I am setteled now on 3-4 coats of polythurne, sanding w/15000 between coats. Unfortunatly this uses up valuable chuck time.

The Shop Smith Band Saw is the Timex of woodworking. I bought mine in ,85. My first turning tool ,,,alas. Not good for a lathe. OTOH the sheer punishment this headstock will take is awesome. It should come equipped with a saddle, then you could ride it around a large shop  while turning an out of balance piece with a death grip on the big gouge.

Titebond III mixes/works with black and red ink if I should wish a glue line. The sheer possibilities of our chosen hobby/work are endless. I am only limited by what I have not yet seen, or imagined.

I only have one chuck and the Harbor Freight lathe. This lathe will be replaced with a better one,, soon. I turn every day.

This lathe is not true. From this to a 3520 should be a big change.

What I mean by 'not true' is that I can turn a thin wall vessel and it will (minutely) be thinner on one side... this is
not that easily noticed, but is there non the less. If you can chuck up a six inch piece and turn it down to the size of a toothpick on the end,,, then you have a good lathe.. the Harbor Freight lathe will not do this for me.

I Do hope that my jumping around on subjects does not confuse everyone. I have taken so much from the community here that I feel I should at least TRY to repay by posting my lathe experience (nearly 3 years, still a beginner and it is O.K.)...I found that using stripped multistrand wire (#12 or #14) between the chuck and spindle shoulder keeps the chuck from becoming over tite.
And then I found there was no reason to remove the chuck since the dead center will fit quite well in the chuck jaws.

I have also found that my SS Bandsaw tire is easily replaced by black electricians tape. My Laguna 1412 (first edition) is a disappointment,,, blade speed suffers,, I should have waited and bought a better saw. My new Delta tablesaw is ok.

Currently I am plumbing my overhead rafters with 4 inch thinwall pvc for dedicated vacuum outlets. This will run to a squirrel cage (central air type) blower on the outside of my shop/garage. Going to try to go with all overhead electrical power tool connections also. Saw dust is a killer. So is tripping over extension cords.
I rarely go to bed at night without two or three glueups
waiting on the morning. I have 18 clamps, 6 each pipe, bar and C...Plus 3 really old homemade clamps.
South Texas coast is far different than central Texas. Wood works better down here.
I don't post often because I usually don't know when to shut up. On and on and on.
I turn a lot and what I don't like I put aside, I recently finished a 10 inch plate/platter that I had started 20 years ago. The small Church I go to has seen my progress improve over the years. I give everything away. My first Shop Smith in 1985 started this.. all Tools were placed in storage in 87 in order for me to make my first million.. (didn't happen).. dug um out a couple years ago. Nonstop since.
Apologies for loooong story.
Yep I am totally addicted to spinning wood. Oh well. All you guys are doing is enabling my addiction.
Carry on.
Back to top
  
 
IP Logged
 
Don Stephan
WR Addict
*****
Offline


WR Rocks!

Posts: 1,441

Cincinnati, Ohio, Ohio, USA
Cincinnati, Ohio
Ohio
USA

Gender: male
Re: Basic Help
Reply #7 - Jun 30th, 2017 at 7:12pm
 
There was some discussion a couple months ago about aligning headstock and tailstock.  Basically, put a spur center in the headstock and a live center with a center point in the tailstock.  Gently bring them together to confirm that the two points meet.  If you, and you have a small lathe, may need to lift one or two feet to bring the points into alignment.
Back to top
  
WWW  
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: 1
Send Topic Print