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Redesign Dizzy Bowl (Read 555 times)
 
Steve Nicholson
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Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Jul 1st, 2017 at 11:35am
 
The picture (i hope is attached) show three of six bowl for Christmas.  I have been working on a different design, where the bottom is round and open like a salad bowl.  Has anybody out there done this.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #1 - Jul 1st, 2017 at 1:09pm
 
Steve Nicholson wrote on Jul 1st, 2017 at 11:35am:
Has anybody out there done this.


I'm not sure what exactly you're asking.
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Ralph Fahringer
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #2 - Jul 1st, 2017 at 5:10pm
 
Best as i can figure, it looks  like he turned the inside bottom with a curve rather than flat.

I'm sure semeone somewhere has done it but it still looks good!!
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #3 - Jul 1st, 2017 at 8:54pm
 
Steve may be wanting a more rounded bottom, like your normal bowl.  Those look to be more "V" shaped?  Maybe Smiley
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Ed Weber
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #4 - Jul 2nd, 2017 at 10:21am
 
The only thing I can offer to what "I think' is the question is to start with thicker stock.
The cut angle determines the slope of the bowl walls, the base is determined basically by the thickness or what's left.
You can always add an additional layer to the outside base as you do with the rim. This can provide more material in order to re-define the shape.
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Steve Nicholson
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #5 - Jul 3rd, 2017 at 11:44am
 
Thanks, I know that using a solid block and cutting rings is way to wasteful and expensive.  I am thinking a decagon is the way to go.  The issue is the bottom 2 or 3 rings have to be wide to get the curve, it's a balancing act to keep the curve inside the rings and not be too thin.  I thought maybe somebody had made something like this.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #6 - Jul 3rd, 2017 at 1:50pm
 
Steve, I'm still not sure what you're trying to say.
When making a "vortex" style bowl there are no limitations  if you start with a thicker glue-up, you'll have more material to available to work with in order to get the curvature you want.
If the pattern looks to "clunky" when using a thick a thick glue-up, re-saw, align you desired amount of rotation and re-glue the blank before cutting rings.
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Ralph Fahringer
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #7 - Jul 3rd, 2017 at 3:08pm
 
Yeah... I'm with Ed on this. Still no idea what you're talking about. How about maybe a drawing or something, like a cross-section  of what you want your finished piece to look like.

Is what you're showing in the OP what you are looking for? ...and am i right that you want the INSIDE bottom of the bowl to be curved or the OUTSIDE bottom to curve?

These things are important for anyone to  answer you question.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #8 - Jul 3rd, 2017 at 3:26pm
 
Ralph Fahringer wrote on Jul 3rd, 2017 at 3:08pm:
Is what you're showing in the OP what you are looking for? ...and am i right that you want the INSIDE bottom of the bowl to be curved or the OUTSIDE bottom to curve?

These things are important for anyone to  answer you question.


+1

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Steve Nicholson
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #9 - Jul 5th, 2017 at 12:08pm
 
Picture of green Myrtle Wood, not finished but is has the outside profile I am looking for in the dizzy bowl.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #10 - Jul 5th, 2017 at 12:53pm
 
It can be done but not from a single blank.
EXAMPLE ONLY
You basically make a glue-up long enough to make several blanks.
Let's say you are making a 12" bowl.
you can glue up 36" long strips so that you end up with a laminated (strips) board long enough to cut three "identical" blanks. So now you have three blanks that for all intents and purposes are the some, then the cutting of the rings comes into play. You will need to cut each individual blank slightly differently to achieve the profile you want. By taking individual rings form each of the three blanks you can make virtually any profile including closed or hollow forms.
This method can be as simple or as complicated as you want. The profile of the piece and the height of the individual rings (the look) is what will determine the number of blanks you need.
1. What do I want it to look like
2. How do I construct it to get there

There are, as always, other ways to go about this. In my experience, this is the most popular method.
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Grant Wilkinson
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #11 - Jul 6th, 2017 at 3:43pm
 
I don't see a big pic of the myrtlewood bowl when I click the thumbnail, but Ed's explanation may have helped me to see what you are trying to achieve.

I do something similar to Ed's method, but by resawing instead of going with long blanks. My blank starts out being quite thick, maybe 2" or so. Once it's glued up and dry, I can resaw it on the bandsaw into identical blanks that are the thickness of the final ring height that I want - say 1/4". I run them through a drum sander to flatten them.

Then, I cut rings from each of the thinner blanks.

As Ed said, the key is doing your bowl plan before doing your blank. The profile of your bowl will tell you what size rings you need. Then, it's simply a matter of gluing up a blank thick enough that you can re-saw enough blanks from which to cut your final rings.

You can better understand what I am saying by going to dennyedwards.com and watch his video on making a "dizzy bowl".

Of course, if I have completely misunderstood your question, never mind.   Smiley
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Grant Wilkinson
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #12 - Jul 8th, 2017 at 1:17pm
 
Steve

Those started with Tom Lohman and Denny Edwards and I have been sending emails and they are very nice guys including Jerry Bennett.  If you wish I can get you their email addresses.  Let me know or best send me a pm
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Steve Nicholson
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Re: Redesign Dizzy Bowl
Reply #13 - Jul 12th, 2017 at 12:13pm
 
Grant Wilkinson wrote on Jul 6th, 2017 at 3:43pm:
I don't see a big pic of the myrtlewood bowl when I click the thumbnail, but Ed's explanation may have helped me to see what you are trying to achieve.

I do something similar to Ed's method, but by resawing instead of going with long blanks. My blank starts out being quite thick, maybe 2" or so. Once it's glued up and dry, I can resaw it on the bandsaw into identical blanks that are the thickness of the final ring height that I want - say 1/4". I run them through a drum sander to flatten them.

Then, I cut rings from each of the thinner blanks.

As Ed said, the key is doing your bowl plan before doing your blank. The profile of your bowl will tell you what size rings you need. Then, it's simply a matter of gluing up a blank thick enough that you can re-saw enough blanks from which to cut your final rings.

You can better understand what I am saying by going to dennyedwards.com and watch his video on making a "dizzy bowl".

Of course, if I have completely misunderstood your question, never mind. Smiley


Picture in my avatar is Big Leaf Maple and the picture in the post is Myrtle Wood.  Sorry for the confusion.
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