Bruce Kamp wrote on Jul 23
rd, 2017 at 9:45am:
I think if you follow Ed's basic idea you get to this.
Don't be offended but this is NOT anywhere close to my description, design or basic idea.
For a ripping cut, it is better to raise the blade as high as possible to reduce the cutting resistance of the blade. The clamp bridging the blade does not allow this and IMO is just not something that should be done unless absolutely necessary. Also when making a bevel cut is is not good practice to cage a piece between the blade and table (or sled in this case), this can cause binding burning and kickback. With a bevel cut, 99.9% of the time, you want the underside piece to be able to fall free of the blade.
A quick description followed by photos.
It is essential to properly mill your stock prior to this procedure.
1. Set you saw bevel angle
2. Basic sled placed on proper side of the blade, depending on your saw.
3. Keep all metal hardware clear of the path of the blade.
4. Cut stop block to desire miter angle
5. Clamp stave and rip
One side complete
6. Reverse the miter angle of the stop block
7. Attack the drop piece to stop block to provide a more uniform support (I used CA glue in this setup)
8. Position and secure the cut stave against the compound stop block and rip
Hopefully these photos will make it clear but if you have questions, please ask.