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Chucking a log for a hollow form (Read 1,023 times)
 
robert baccus
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #15 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 12:30am
 
Really pretty bowl--love the "water marks" around the pith.  Forgot about the pith--run some thin CA into the wood around the pith--2 coats--to hold the wood together and waterproof the area.  Do spend your last dollar if necessary to acquire some endseal--it is essential to turning green wood.  Avoid like the pox anchorseal #2.  To avoid confusion I switched to Artisan Woodsealer years ago--really good wax sealer. It's in woodturnerscatalog--same price.  Calif. liberals forced many changes to finish makers--gotta save the 4 toed newts you know.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #16 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 7:07am
 
It would be nice to keep political opinions out of a woodturning forum.

I've only used Anchorseal 2 and am quite satisfied with the results.

CA stains some woods, and extensive sanding can be needed to remove the stains.  Just FYI.
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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #17 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 7:37am
 
Thank you for the info Don and Robert; I added some thin ca to the pith but will have to use the sealer on the next project and hope the Tung oil and Tree wax will seal the wood good enough on this one. Is there a retail store selling Artisan Woodsealer ? Found this on Amazon
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« Last Edit: Aug 18th, 2017 at 7:46am by Bruce L Jones »  

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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #18 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 8:48am
 
Has any of you tried this product for sealing green wood?
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robert baccus
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #19 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 10:22pm
 
My one trial of Pentacryl was a joke--no more. That fact about Calif. was not politics --just fact. Their one state envior. rules put thousands of products and several companies out of business. Anchorseal #1 was a fine product as were all the endseals then available to the lumber market. After the new rules they had to change their formula and it was useless after that. How many gallons of endseal other than #2 have you tried?? I had to change my lacquer brand and several other finishing products to continue my professional turning business. The newt thing was an attempt at humor.
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robert baccus
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #20 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 10:34pm
 
Sorry --forgot the other thread.  I would avoid the stone sealer for sure.  Made for stone--not recommended for wood--it would be your finish forever.  Very high cost as well.  The paraffin wax end sealers have a proven record for slowing and equalizing water loss in wood going back many decades.  They are also very economical as well.  Good luck              Old Forester
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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #21 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 4:55pm
 
So I never have used Anchorseal 1 or 2 is one better than the other I can get both on Amazon here in Maryland.

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Don Stephan
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #22 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 6:27pm
 
Is MacDonalds better than Burger King?  Is Powermatic better than Oneida?  Is Vicmarc better than Nova?  I know of no head to head objective testing of Anchorseal I and II - I is derived from petroleum and II from plant is my understanding.  I've only used II as that is what the local Woodcraft carries.  If it is even nearly as good as I then I would choose the plant based but to each his/her own.
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robert baccus
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #23 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 11:04pm
 
Is uninformed opinion better than extensive experience?
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Don Stephan
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #24 - Aug 23rd, 2017 at 8:20pm
 
Ouch!
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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #25 - Aug 23rd, 2017 at 10:58pm
 
Well I guess I get some Anchorseal 1 and see for my self; I've always liked the petroleum base products best. When I was back in the Cabinet shop every day for over 30 years they use to bring us all the water born products for us to try, they never were as good as Petroleum products.

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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #26 - Sep 26th, 2017 at 3:00pm
 
This was a very green log; How long do you leave your green projects in a paper bag to dry?  It's been over a month so far there is one crack and there's a place where the wood has lifted a bit, still looks Okay so far but it's not dry yet, 6 months or better?

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Don Stephan
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #27 - Sep 26th, 2017 at 7:41pm
 
My floor is concrete on grade, so I expect the highest humidity levels are on the floor.  As soon as  once turned bowl is completed I immediately weigh and record the weight on the tenon, then place in a paper bag on the floor.  Every friday I weigh and record the weight of each bowl.  When the weekly weight loss of a bowl is less than 2% I keep the bowl in the bag but move onto a table off the floor and continue weekly weighing.  When the weekly weight loss again is less than 2% I remove the bowl from the bag and continue weekly weighing.  When the weekly weight loss is less than 2% for a third time I consider the bowl air dried, and stack on a shelf until I am ready to sand and apply finish.  It is a very arbitrary system, but works for me.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #28 - Sep 26th, 2017 at 8:15pm
 
You can still purchase original Anchorseal.
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