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Chucking a log for a hollow form (Read 1,024 times)
 
Bruce L Jones
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Chucking a log for a hollow form
Aug 15th, 2017 at 9:23am
 
Okay guys new to GREEN wood turning and I need some help here, when you have a round log section, is it best to turn the whole log by putting the tenon on the bark side? And  would it be best to make the length the same as the girth? And when starting off to make the tenon a face plate w/ screws as apposed to the worm screw I have that came w/ my chuck?

Thank you for any help,

Bruce
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Ralph Fahringer
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #1 - Aug 15th, 2017 at 12:09pm
 
My answer to one of those questions is:

Faceplate over worm  screw. The faceplate has many more screws into the wood while the worm screw has a tendency to strip, especially being green wood.
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Bert Delisle
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #2 - Aug 15th, 2017 at 2:41pm
 
I use my Stronghold with #3 jaws with wood worm, AND tailstock support. Never had a drive problem and it is difficult to launch it if you have a catch or hog too heavily. Turn the outside profile to taste and put a tenon on. With green wood held this way one can take the support point down to a small size and then just knock it off with the lathe stopped. Then run the tailstock up again to mark center for future reference.
I never turn a rough log relying only on woodworm screw, I haven't used a face plate since I started doing it this way. Largest bowl to date was 23" rough log.
I had one out of balance log and a heavy cut catch that did spin the screw but no excitement as the log just stopped and the lathe keep spinning like a safe drive. Just tightened the tailstock a bit and back to taking lighter cuts,  the chuck jaws do the driving, the screw just keeps it from launching off the lathe. JMO
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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #3 - Aug 15th, 2017 at 2:57pm
 
Thank you Ralph for the help; Yes more screws is better. So I cut the logs length to 10" to match the girth, then chiseled a flat section on one of the sides. Once large enough and flat I ran 8- 1" # 10 screws; to get it to spin I had to cut more off. For this I used a saws-all - w/ a aggressive blade making angle cuts trying to balance the chunk of Oak. This is the Heaviest piece of wood I've ever put on this lathe. It still wants to wobble something fierce; I don't have my lathe bolted / lagged to the concrete floor. This may have to happen before I can turn this hunk on my HF Central Machines Lathe, and this still may be to large for this lathe. Any thoughts or suggestions on this would be helpful; Here are a few shots of what I working with.

Bruce

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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #4 - Aug 15th, 2017 at 3:07pm
 
Thanks for the response Bert you posted while I was posting what I've already done. I hope I can get this balanced better and where the 8 screws are will get cut away and still have a nice hollow form.

Bruce
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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #5 - Aug 15th, 2017 at 8:07pm
 
Well I went to YouTube and found a guy showing how to balance a log w/ the Drive center & Live center. So I gave that a whirl and was able to get a tenon created and mounted into my chuck then a little rough shaping, here's what I have so far.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #6 - Aug 15th, 2017 at 10:28pm
 
Your bowl looks very nice--also try spindle type turning on log sections.  Most are turned that way to minimize drying distortions.  Also you can turn one like yours with a 3" faceplate screwed to a round bark side.  Use 2" deck screws  on top and 3-4" screws on the side holes.  Works good for gravy bowl mounting as well.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #7 - Aug 16th, 2017 at 7:59am
 
robert baccus wrote on Aug 15th, 2017 at 10:28pm:
Your bowl looks very nice--also try spindle type turning on log sections.  Most are turned that way to minimize drying distortions.  Also you can turn one like yours with a 3" faceplate screwed to a round bark side.  Use 2" deck screws  on top and 3-4" screws on the side holes.  Works good for gravy bowl mounting as well.

Thank you Robert for all of the info, can you show the Gravy Bowl mounting I've never heard of that?

Bruce
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #8 - Aug 16th, 2017 at 7:14pm
 
Bruce

If you are interested in starting to turn green wood bowls, there are some resources here that might be helpful.  Under the title "Woodturner's Resource" at the top of the page, click "tutorials, Projects, and Tips."  On that new page, click "Shop Projects."  On that new page, click "Log to Lathe" and take a look at those resources.  They were very helpful to me when I first found this forum.
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Bruce L Jones
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #9 - Aug 16th, 2017 at 8:54pm
 
Thank you for pointing that out to me Don I never noticed those links before. Well I went out to the shop this morning and did a bit more. I'm not sure if this is the best way to do things but here's where it is so far. I just need to hollow the shape I made, I guess it will warp and split on me? I was going to put it in a plastic bag once hollow. The shine you see is Tung Oil I thought this would slow the drying of the Red Oak.

Bruce
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #10 - Aug 16th, 2017 at 10:39pm
 
I usually endseal the outside at this point and hollow the piece.  Leave the inside open and it will dry without splitting usually.You might double coat the lip area as well.  Drying the inside only actually pulls the wood together--just the opposite from drying the outside--really nice wood and work  on this piece.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #11 - Aug 17th, 2017 at 8:24am
 
I worry about cracking around the pith, what was once the center of the log.
I would at least seal the area surrounding that as soon as you are done roughing the outside.
Try to do the whole inside in one session. If you wait, the turned section will warp, and you will never get the inside the same all the way around.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #12 - Aug 17th, 2017 at 9:00am
 
Thank you Robert and John I do not have any sealer but I have applied a few coats of Tung oil to the whole outside this should keep air form getting to the green wood, it is also the finish I'll be using then wood wax for buff.

Bruce
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #13 - Aug 17th, 2017 at 1:08pm
 
Well I got the hollowing completed added several more coats of Tung oil to the out side but left the piece on the chuck to dry slowly inside the house and so I can wax/ buff the final finish once dry. I had to open up the top a bit to get my tools all the way to the bottom of the piece, she finished at 7" x 7" here's how it looks now.

Bruce
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #14 - Aug 17th, 2017 at 6:46pm
 
If you are running the air conditioner, which dries the air, your piece may dry rather quickly.  After I finish once turned bowls I place them in paper grocery bags on a concrete floor on grade - I expect close to floor is the highest humidity level in my studio.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #15 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 12:30am
 
Really pretty bowl--love the "water marks" around the pith.  Forgot about the pith--run some thin CA into the wood around the pith--2 coats--to hold the wood together and waterproof the area.  Do spend your last dollar if necessary to acquire some endseal--it is essential to turning green wood.  Avoid like the pox anchorseal #2.  To avoid confusion I switched to Artisan Woodsealer years ago--really good wax sealer. It's in woodturnerscatalog--same price.  Calif. liberals forced many changes to finish makers--gotta save the 4 toed newts you know.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #16 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 7:07am
 
It would be nice to keep political opinions out of a woodturning forum.

I've only used Anchorseal 2 and am quite satisfied with the results.

CA stains some woods, and extensive sanding can be needed to remove the stains.  Just FYI.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #17 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 7:37am
 
Thank you for the info Don and Robert; I added some thin ca to the pith but will have to use the sealer on the next project and hope the Tung oil and Tree wax will seal the wood good enough on this one. Is there a retail store selling Artisan Woodsealer ? Found this on Amazon
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #18 - Aug 18th, 2017 at 8:48am
 
Has any of you tried this product for sealing green wood?
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #19 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 10:22pm
 
My one trial of Pentacryl was a joke--no more.  That fact about Calif. was not politics --just fact.  Their one state envior. rules put thousands of products and several companies out of business.  Anchorseal #1 was a fine product as were all the endseals then available to the lumber market.  After the new rules they had to change their formula and it was useless after that.  How many gallons of endseal other than #2 have you tried??  I had to change my lacquer brand and several other finishing products to continue my professional turning business. The newt thing was an attempt at humor.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #20 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 10:34pm
 
Sorry --forgot the other thread.  I would avoid the stone sealer for sure.  Made for stone--not recommended for wood--it would be your finish forever.  Very high cost as well.  The paraffin wax end sealers have a proven record for slowing and equalizing water loss in wood going back many decades.  They are also very economical as well.  Good luck              Old Forester
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #21 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 4:55pm
 
So I never have used Anchorseal 1 or 2 is one better than the other I can get both on Amazon here in Maryland.

Bruce
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #22 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 6:27pm
 
Is MacDonalds better than Burger King?  Is Powermatic better than Oneida?  Is Vicmarc better than Nova?  I know of no head to head objective testing of Anchorseal I and II - I is derived from petroleum and II from plant is my understanding.  I've only used II as that is what the local Woodcraft carries.  If it is even nearly as good as I then I would choose the plant based but to each his/her own.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #23 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 11:04pm
 
Is uninformed opinion better than extensive experience?
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #24 - Aug 23rd, 2017 at 8:20pm
 
Ouch!
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #25 - Aug 23rd, 2017 at 10:58pm
 
Well I guess I get some Anchorseal 1 and see for my self; I've always liked the petroleum base products best. When I was back in the Cabinet shop every day for over 30 years they use to bring us all the water born products for us to try, they never were as good as Petroleum products.

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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #26 - Sep 26th, 2017 at 3:00pm
 
This was a very green log; How long do you leave your green projects in a paper bag to dry?  It's been over a month so far there is one crack and there's a place where the wood has lifted a bit, still looks Okay so far but it's not dry yet, 6 months or better?

Bruce
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #27 - Sep 26th, 2017 at 7:41pm
 
My floor is concrete on grade, so I expect the highest humidity levels are on the floor.  As soon as  once turned bowl is completed I immediately weigh and record the weight on the tenon, then place in a paper bag on the floor.  Every friday I weigh and record the weight of each bowl.  When the weekly weight loss of a bowl is less than 2% I keep the bowl in the bag but move onto a table off the floor and continue weekly weighing.  When the weekly weight loss again is less than 2% I remove the bowl from the bag and continue weekly weighing.  When the weekly weight loss is less than 2% for a third time I consider the bowl air dried, and stack on a shelf until I am ready to sand and apply finish.  It is a very arbitrary system, but works for me.
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Re: Chucking a log for a hollow form
Reply #28 - Sep 26th, 2017 at 8:15pm
 
You can still purchase original Anchorseal.
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