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Chucking with Cole Jaws (Read 551 times)
 
Ed Weber
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Chucking with Cole Jaws
Aug 17th, 2017 at 11:20am
 
I'll start off by saying, Cole Jaws are no different than using any other type of jaw.
You need to have a proper fit to secure your piece. That being said, there are many ways to go about this.
Here a a couple of photos that show the use of tapered buttons to secure your piece, this is (again) no different than a normal dovetailed jaw. The tapered profile gives a mechanical advantage by pulling the piece into the jaw at the same time (expansion or contraction) pressure is applied. This is good for just about anything with a slightly tapered rim or lip on it.
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #1 - Aug 17th, 2017 at 12:20pm
 
Thanks for the post Ed. I'm in the process of finishing a piece and had forgot I had a set large cole jaws for my oneway chuck. Timely post.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #2 - Aug 17th, 2017 at 1:45pm
 
Other things you can do
Larger plywood jaws to extend the capacity.
Custom jaws to hole items other than round.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #3 - Aug 19th, 2017 at 10:42am
 
Expansion more works well for semi-closed forms.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #4 - Aug 19th, 2017 at 4:15pm
 
It would be great if others that use cole jaws could post pictures of some of their setups or holding methods.
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #5 - Aug 19th, 2017 at 8:28pm
 
I don't use them, but have been told if you are doing any turning, slow speeds, and keep the tailstock engaged till the last smallest bit that you can't get without removing the tailstock. The mount is not as powerful/secure as standard chuck jaws. One friend uses blue painter's tape to make sure the piece does not dismount...

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Ed Weber
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #6 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 9:30am
 
Good points for people to remember Reed.

The Teknatool (NOVA) jaws are not to be used over 600 RPM, it is imprinted into the jaw face for those that don't read the manual  Undecided Roll Eyes

The notion that the connection is "not as secure" comes from the usage of the hard rubber, straight sided buttons (OEM) These give no mechanical advantage and rely on the chucks clamping pressure only. If you have any type of resistance your piece can become unmounted.
The connection is as secure as you want it to be. You can use any number of fasteners buttons or clamping devices. These can be the off the shelf or specific purpose made to hold even more irregular shaped items.

As far as using the tail stock goes, that's an individual preference, I'm not going to tell you how to turn.

I typically don't use the tail stock but I use cole jaws often and have not had any of the issues and/or horror stories that some people associate with them. That's the entire purpose of this thread.


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Bert Delisle
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #7 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 11:15am
 
Cole jaws. IMO are one of the specialty holding devices that can be a great benefit to the woodturner. Caution is required of course as the holding power is depending on the rubber  buttons. I use the Oneway jumbo jaws and have discovered that I can remove the rubbers and use only the tapered steel inserts to provide a veritable large diameter dovetail chuck like hold on large platters. It works very well on recess or outside hold. I generally burn a line on the perimeter of a piece to register the tips of the cones so the piece runs as true as possible. If near perfect circle size there is no chuck mark on the piece, and it is very secure, less flex due to no rubber. I am not sure what the Nova Cole jaws use to holder the rubbers, I have only used the Oneway system.
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #8 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 11:50am
 
Ed Weber wrote on Aug 17th, 2017 at 11:20am:
Here a a couple of photos that show the use of tapered buttons to secure your piece, this is (again) no different than a normal dovetailed jaw



Ed did you make or purchase the black rubber tapered buttons?
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #9 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 12:07pm
 
The buffers are from Teknatool/NOVA
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I wrote this in  Feb 2012 when I first bought them
"The first thing I noticed is that these buttons came with allen head screws.  Smiley The cole jaws I bought years ago come with slotted head screws, which are still in the package. So that saved me a couple of bucks.
The multi sided buttons have two different radii molded into them. One side is marked with a 6" and the other a 10", I suppose this is to insure the best possible fit without squishing the heck out of the buttons or your project.
The posts are about 3/4" tall and are great for holding  anything with a 90 degree edge.
They seem to have been well made and look as if they will last quite awhile. "

After 5 1/2 years, they're still working fine.
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George Stratton
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #10 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 5:31pm
 
Ed, I notice the blue masking tape in your pictures? Is that just to true up the face? Looks like it has nothing to do with holding the part.
Geo.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #11 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 8:22pm
 
Bert Delisle wrote on Aug 20th, 2017 at 11:15am:
Caution is required of course as the holding power is depending on the rubber  buttons.

There is rubber and there is rubber.
The Nova buttons are rubber but quite hard and not easy to compress, This was part of the problem with the original buttons. They were too hard, straight sided, and that translated to not holding very well. You had to "over-tighten" the chuck to get a reasonable hold. This is no good for the chuck or the piece. This is why I use the tapered bumpers, originally my own and then when nova offered their set about 5 years ago. The Nova buffers are hard, the other ones in my photos are soft so that they do conform to the piece. Different buttons/buffers for different applications. I have useed wood, plastic and metal to make my own. Using tapered buttons, hard or soft is much safer than straight sided in most applications. There is also no need to over-tighten with the added mechanical advantage.

George Stratton wrote on Aug 20th, 2017 at 5:31pm:
Ed, I notice the blue masking tape in your pictures? Is that just to true up the face? Looks like it has nothing to do with holding the part.
Geo.


I typically finish the majority of the piece (inside and out) before I remount.
The masking tape is really only there to protect the finish from touching the cast aluminum jaws and getting marred. It can however be used as you mentioned as the larger the jaws get, (more back and forth movement) the more the need to true up the piece.
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #12 - Aug 20th, 2017 at 9:32pm
 
Actually, on most of my bowls, I can't use them because they are warped so bad..... Some times the bottoms are warped enough that I couldn't turn off the recess if I wanted... Maybe I should get a vacuum chuck some day...

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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #13 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 6:41pm
 
For a long time I had great difficulty trying to turn off the tenon on once turned bowls and have a non-warped bottom.  Using a suggestion from another Cincinnati turner, I made a number of jam chucks by gluing with Titebond pieces of 2" high density foam onto 3/4" plywood disks that had a tenon on one side.  The foam does tear a bit but now I have a number of different diameter foam jam chucks with slightly rounded circumference.  Using one about the same diameter as the tenon to be removed, and putting the point of the live center back in the marked center of the tenon,  and taking light cuts, I've been able to turn off the tenon and have the bottom flat enough to make a shallow ring or two.
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #14 - Aug 21st, 2017 at 10:19pm
 
Ed, thank for this post. Those tapered buttons look great. Never knew about them.
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #15 - Aug 22nd, 2017 at 8:46am
 
Chris Neilan wrote on Aug 21st, 2017 at 10:19pm:
Those tapered buttons look great. Never knew about them.

you are not alone

IMO, Teknatool/NOVA isn't the best at marketing, PERIOD.
Poorly maintained website/s, product announcements without product and so on.
The only way I found out about them is to "search them out"
They have been around for about 5 years or so. IMO this is what should come as standard. I think it would help if not eliminate the negative status cole jaws have among turners. Not to mention they are far safer (in most situations) than the standard straight sided buffers.
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Re: Chucking with Cole Jaws
Reply #16 - Aug 22nd, 2017 at 11:16am
 
Here is what I made / use:

The buttons are turned wood core with a soft clear hose over the outside,  All held in place with carriage bolts.  This is ~22" in diameter.  Holes drilled in the plywood face allow for off-center turning too!

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« Last Edit: Aug 22nd, 2017 at 11:18am by Tom Coghill »  
 
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