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Bowl Transituation (Read 680 times)
 
Tom Coghill
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Turning, when I am done
with my chores.

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Anchorage, Alaska, USA
Anchorage
Alaska
USA

Gender: male

Oneway 2436, 3 HP 220V
Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #15 - Aug 25th, 2017 at 10:09am
 
Ed is spot on  Cool - What works great for one person and they will never do it any other way, will not work at all for another.  I think all methods are acceptable (if they are safe) it just depends on how much practice you put in to each as to what you find favorable to you.

When the bowl is done and on the shelf, what method one used to get there is of no concern. Thumbs Up
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Rick Caron
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Greer, South Carolina, USA
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Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #16 - Aug 26th, 2017 at 6:49pm
 
Just turned a  scrub  pine bowl.   Would normally go  from a gouge  to   negative rack   to sandpaper.    This bowl    had to be sanded  out     because  negative rack would  not take out the   gouge  marks.    And  added   some tear out.   Some wood is too soft.    But after sanding   it's going to be a good looking bowl....
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robo_hippy
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Eugene, OR, USA
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Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #17 - Aug 27th, 2017 at 1:17pm
 
Rick, this is a situation where I would use a shear scrape. It will cut cleaner than the NRS in side grain. Scraper, 70 degree or so bevel, and hand burnished burr.

robo hippy
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Rick Caron
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So many logs, so little
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Greer, South Carolina, USA
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Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #18 - Aug 27th, 2017 at 6:50pm
 
Robo that is a skill i haven't mastered yet.  Guess you need a pretty high speed  to make that work?
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« Last Edit: Aug 27th, 2017 at 8:48pm by Rick Caron »  
 
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Rick Caron
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So many logs, so little
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Greer, South Carolina, USA
Greer
South Carolina
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Gender: male
Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #19 - Aug 27th, 2017 at 8:53pm
 
Meant to say    NRS added some tear out at end grain  so i had to use  80 grit sandpaper.   Haven't mastered the  shear scrape,  guess you need a pretty high lathe speed for that?
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Tom Coghill
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Turning, when I am done
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Anchorage, Alaska, USA
Anchorage
Alaska
USA

Gender: male

Oneway 2436, 3 HP 220V
Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #20 - Aug 28th, 2017 at 9:22am
 
Rick - you can minimize the tear out by making the wood stronger.  Try applying some sanding sealer or a water based cell sealer, allow it to dry, then make your final cut. On your final cuts, take fine light cuts. Thumbs Up
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robo_hippy
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Eugene, OR, USA
Eugene, OR
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Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #21 - Aug 28th, 2017 at 10:14am
 
I do my shear scraping at the same speed I turn. I do turn a bit faster than most though. Mostly it is a light touch, and a good burr. Most of the time the burr from a 180 grit CBN wheel is fine. Some times a honed burr or 600-1000 grit CBN wheel works better. Now, I hand burnish a burr on my scrapers for this. Some prefer the gouge, but you can't manage to fit one on the inside of the bowl because the bowl, tool rest, and lathe bed get in the way.

robo hippy
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Rick Caron
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So many logs, so little
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Greer, South Carolina, USA
Greer
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Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #22 - Aug 31st, 2017 at 5:14pm
 
Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register
And i ordered    25 more discs    of each grit          the green    vinyl backed dics    Will last  me   years............
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Don Stephan
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Re: Bowl Transituation
Reply #23 - Aug 31st, 2017 at 6:12pm
 
Don't know how much sanding you do each month, but these small discs do not last long.  Remember reading one person said he replaces disks after 3 minutes of use, and I have been replacing almost that frequently.  I try to remember how much sawdust a new disc makes at each grit, and replace when the quantity of sawdust produced drops off noticeably, not when the disc no longer makes sawdust.

Compared to random orbit sanders, the surface area is extremely small so each square inch has to do so much more work than on 5" and 6" ROS discs.

Second, if the same amount of pressure is applied through the disc onto the wood (as with ROS) the small surface area builds up heat almost immediately, and heat can cause checks in the wood and dramatically shortens the life of the interface pad - the glue softens and the velcro comes off the foam.  Sanding at high rotational speeds also builds up hat almost immediately, shortening the life of the interface pad and even the mandrel.  For several months I refused to sand "daintily" but finally realized that approach was costing me money for more sanding supplies and not giving the results I wanted as efficiently as possible.

I've also noticed that removing a disc from an interface pad puts a lot of pressure on that glue, so that interface pads were not lasting  for me as long as they should.  For a year now I have been using a separate interface pad for each grit - for example a yellow radius pad just for 80 grit, a yellow tapered pad just for 80 grit, and so on, and with a Sharpie I write the grit on the back side velcro of the pad,  So when I change grits, or between tapered and radius pads, I simply remove the pad and disc together from the mandrel.

I've also found much better results using discs whose diameters match those of the pads, so I have  2 3/8" 80 grit discs for the yellow tapered pad and 2" 80 grit discs for the yellow radius pad, and so on.

I HATE having so much sanding supplies inventory, but I think this approach gives me better results more quickly.

Explore the contents of the assortment with an eye to seeing what is most efficient for you.  But you may find that the assortment is not all you need.
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