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Natural Edge Vase Problem (Read 253 times)
 
Richard Wilabee
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Natural Edge Vase Problem
Sep 9th, 2017 at 1:20pm
 
I was making a natural edge vase from a log so I had end grain on each side. I almost had it done and was just finishing the inside with my scraper. I don't know if I got a catch or if it was under stress but it split at the top with about a 3/8 gap and tapers to just a small crack down to the pith which is half way down the vase and then a couple of more cracks running from the pith. I decided to oil it with linseed oil just to see what it would have looked like. Then I thought I should have mixed some turquoise and epoxy and filled it in which would have looked really cool. Is it too late to do that since I put one coat of oil inside and outside.

I still have the tenon on the bottom.

The wood is Shoestring Acacia
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« Last Edit: Sep 9th, 2017 at 1:25pm by Richard Wilabee »  
 
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chris lawrence
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #1 - Sep 9th, 2017 at 2:48pm
 
I dont know if i would want to put that back on the lathe even with epoxy filling the cracks.  May be fill the cracks and hand sand it smooth after the oil cures.
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Ralph Fahringer
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #2 - Sep 9th, 2017 at 3:40pm
 
After you fill the cracks, wrap it tightly in saran wrap  to keep it from continuing to move apart till the filler cures.

Then, I agree with Chris to hand sand it.


Seeing as how the look you were going for didn't include a piece missing from the rim, Shocked you might consider carving the edge all the way around. Maybe an undulating shape, or something.

Consider the mistake as an opportunity for something different.

Of course, then show us how it  came out!! Smiley
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Mike Nathal
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #3 - Sep 10th, 2017 at 7:14am
 
It is not too late.  I would let the oil cure for a while before adding the epoxy.
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Ron Sardo
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #4 - Sep 10th, 2017 at 8:04am
 
Richard Wilabee wrote on Sep 9th, 2017 at 1:20pm:
I don't know if I got a catch or if it was under stress


It cracked because of the pith. When I do natural edge bowls I make don't include the pith.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #5 - Sep 10th, 2017 at 9:19am
 
Ron Sardo wrote on Sep 10th, 2017 at 8:04am:
It cracked because of the pith.


This was going to happen no matter what.
When removing the mass of wood from the inside of the bowl, it relieves some internal stresses in the wood allowing it to move and it also allows it to dry much more quickly, resulting in a crack.
In very basic terms, when wood dries it shrinks but it does not shrink uniformly.

Your piece may continue to crack or widen for few days before it stabilizes.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #6 - Sep 10th, 2017 at 10:00am
 
If I remember correctly the shrinkage ratio table from Bruce Hoadley's book great reference book Understanding Wood, on average wood shrinks 50% more along the growth rings than across them (some woods have a higher or lower ratio if tangential to radial shrinkage).  And short shrinkage cracks at the pith are not uncommon in freshly cut green wood.  For these reasons, it is generally recommended that bowl blanks should not include a two inch diameter centered on the pith.

The growth ring patterns and live edge give your vase an interesting look, but a crack on each side down to the pith is likely the norm for your blank.  If you had successfully stopped with adhesive the crack when it still was short and tight, another might have formed nearby due to the degree of shrinkage stress, at least in woods with higher shrinkage ratios.
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Sam Force
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #7 - Sep 10th, 2017 at 10:18pm
 
Why fill it? Either put leather laces or some copper wire laces.
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Richard Wilabee
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #8 - Sep 11th, 2017 at 10:11am
 
I like the idea of the leather or copper wire laces. Would you do that just in the larger top part of the crack and leave the smaller cracks alone?  Would you use like door bell sold wire and strip the insulation or use something with a larger gauge?
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« Last Edit: Sep 11th, 2017 at 11:10am by Richard Wilabee »  
 
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #9 - Sep 11th, 2017 at 10:52am
 
If you want to play with this a bit on other pieces, you may try boiling the wood. 

I have heard (I have not done this) that one can take the rough-turned (pre-cracked) turning and boil it in water for a few hours.  Some say this allows the wood to move and reduce the stresses in the wood (which comes from drying and removal of some of the wood).  Then turn it thinner, and boil it again (for longer than you think - like 2 hours if it is 3/8 inch think).

After this and as it dries, it MAY not crack...  If you decide to "make wood soup", let us know how it works for you.  As always, different woods will yield different results.  Keep good notes!
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Sam Force
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #10 - Sep 11th, 2017 at 10:30pm
 
I would use larger than door bell wiring, maybe 16 to 18 gauge or leather. Drill holes like for a shoe, Google should be able to find examples
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Don Stephan
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Re: Natural Edge Vase Problem
Reply #11 - Sep 12th, 2017 at 2:26pm
 
Sketch the size of the crack and layout on 1/4" plywood or even box cardboard if necessary, drill holes and test drive the lacing to see how you like it.  Or try some different patterns.
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