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Wood Identification (Read 178 times)
 
David Gilliland
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Wood Identification
Sep 12th, 2017 at 12:02pm
 
Anyone know what this wood is? I found it by the side of the road and the grain seems really nice! I think it is red oak since it smells like vinegar when cut, but wood identification is definitely not my forte!

Got a few good bowl blanks out of this piece, and have one more waiting in the wings!
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Chris Neilan
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #1 - Sep 12th, 2017 at 6:00pm
 
Free wood!  The best species!
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David Gilliland
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #2 - Sep 12th, 2017 at 6:09pm
 
Chris Neilan wrote on Sep 12th, 2017 at 6:00pm:
Free wood!  The best species! 


Haha, yes indeed! Doesn't look half bad turned either (be gentle, this is the 2nd bowl I've ever turned).

We'll see what happens as it dries though. I imagine I may have a cracked bowl on my hands a year or so down the line, but that might look cool as well  Thumbs Up.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #3 - Sep 12th, 2017 at 7:52pm
 
Not a critique, just sharing experience - a thick wall on a green bowl was more likely to crack than one 5/16" thick or less.  I dry my once turned green bowls in paper bags on a concrete floor on grade, and still have an occasional bowl crack.  Some woods are more ornery as they dry (higher ratio of tangential to radial rate of shrinkage) and are more likely to crack than others.

Hope you can identify the wood, it looks very colorful in your pictures.
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David Gilliland
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #4 - Sep 13th, 2017 at 12:50am
 
Don Stephan wrote on Sep 12th, 2017 at 7:52pm:
Not a critique, just sharing experience - a thick wall on a green bowl was more likely to crack than one 5/16" thick or less.  I dry my once turned green bowls in paper bags on a concrete floor on grade, and still have an occasional bowl crack.  Some woods are more ornery as they dry (higher ratio of tangential to radial rate of shrinkage) and are more likely to crack than others.

Hope you can identify the wood, it looks very colorful in your pictures.


Thanks for the insight Don! This is my 1st green bowl so I appreciate your help. My training is limited to watching youtube videos and in most of those videos, people rough turned the green wood fairly thick since they have to turn it again when it dries. Are you saying that you would rough turn to 5/16" and then do a final turning after it dries as well, to clean it up? I can easily chuck the bowl back up, and there's just one coat of mineral oil on there, so if you think thinning it out more is the best approach, then I'll go for it!
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David Hill
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #5 - Sep 13th, 2017 at 3:17pm
 
Nice firsts. 
The tree gurus will want to see the end grain close up.
Mineral oil not my choice for bowls, will NEVER dry/cure.  I only use it for rolling pins.
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Everyday liberating nice things from ordinary chunks of wood---and I like gnarly wood, the outcome is nearly always better than the start.
 
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Don Stephan
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #6 - Sep 13th, 2017 at 7:22pm
 
David

That was a great question, I apologize for not making clear.

Once turned bowls are turned once, so it is important to leave the surface as close to perfect as reasonable (removing tool marks, compression marks, tear out, et cetera) including final wall thickness, any embellishments like beads or bands, et cetera.  As the green wood dries, that differential shrinkage usually causes some change to the shape, which I find a natural embellishment.  After it is dry, it is sanded.  However, because the bowl often becomes somewhat out of round, often the bowl cannot be power sanded on the lathe while the lathe is running.

A twice turned bowl is what you were describing.  As quickly as possible the bowl is roughed out to an approximate final shape with the wall thickness about 10% of the overall diameter, and then set aside to dry slowly.  These bowls often also warp enough that  the tenon has to be trued, then the outside is taken to final shape and any embellishments, then the inside turned to final shape and final wall thickness.  The now finished twice turned bowl is dry, so it can be sanded immediately, and since it is true (round, rim flat) it can be power sanded while turning on the lathe.
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David Gilliland
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #7 - Sep 14th, 2017 at 5:58pm
 
David Hill wrote on Sep 13th, 2017 at 3:17pm:
Nice firsts. 
The tree gurus will want to see the end grain close up.
Mineral oil not my choice for bowls, will NEVER dry/cure.  I only use it for rolling pins.


Thanks! Good to know. Mineral oil is all I had on hand and I was too desperate to see how the grain would look to wait =). Per Don's comments I think I'll probably throw it back on the lathe and take it down more, so Ill make sure to finish it properly this time!
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David Gilliland
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #8 - Sep 14th, 2017 at 6:00pm
 
Thanks for all the info Don!

Don Stephan wrote on Sep 13th, 2017 at 7:22pm:
David

That was a great question, I apologize for not making clear.

Once turned bowls are turned once, so it is important to leave the surface as close to perfect as reasonable (removing tool marks, compression marks, tear out, et cetera) including final wall thickness, any embellishments like beads or bands, et cetera.  As the green wood dries, that differential shrinkage usually causes some change to the shape, which I find a natural embellishment.  After it is dry, it is sanded.  However, because the bowl often becomes somewhat out of round, often the bowl cannot be power sanded on the lathe while the lathe is running.

A twice turned bowl is what you were describing.  As quickly as possible the bowl is roughed out to an approximate final shape with the wall thickness about 10% of the overall diameter, and then set aside to dry slowly.  These bowls often also warp enough that  the tenon has to be trued, then the outside is taken to final shape and any embellishments, then the inside turned to final shape and final wall thickness.  The now finished twice turned bowl is dry, so it can be sanded immediately, and since it is true (round, rim flat) it can be power sanded while turning on the lathe.

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Don Stephan
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #9 - Sep 14th, 2017 at 7:21pm
 
Can't quantify how very much I have learned from the members of this forum, who are always willing to take the time to answer my questions.  So it's only fair that I share what I have learned here and from my favorite book/video combinations by Richard Raffan.  Fortunately, the moderators proof read my contributions so my unintended misstatements get caught in a timely fashion.
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Al Wasser
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Re: Wood Identification
Reply #10 - Sep 15th, 2017 at 9:19am
 
go back to where you got the FOG wood.  Probably some leaves laying there.  Leaf size/shape gives you another clue to identify the tree.  If you don't have a book to ID trees take the leaf to a good nursery and look/ask.
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