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heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing.... (Read 396 times)
 
jimmy russell
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heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Oct 13th, 2017 at 8:19am
 
please tell me what Im doing wrong...It seems like everytime I try to work with pine, it starts out clean and smooth....then for some reason it begins to wobble...and I get all these tears...it is on a face plate where it was centered and rounded to begin with....the tears begin as I begin working the shape...btw I never have this problem with other types of wood...thx in advance
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Ed Weber
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #1 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 8:37am
 
There could be a couple of different reasons you're getting tear-out.
1. It's Pine, many Pine varieties are soft and don't have a very tight grain structure.
2. The tool/s you are using and how. Spindle gouge, skew and how sharp they are.
3. The lathe speed.

All these things, either by themselves or combined, can contribute to the grain pulling out as shown in your photo.

There are many things you can get away with when turning hard woods that you can not when using soft woods such as pine. The physical properties of the wood make it very unforgiving.
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Mike Mills
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #2 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 10:34am
 
Along with what Ed suggested.
The bottom of the pic (bottom cove and center) looks fairly smooth.  The upper section of the cove not very much.
Are you cutting up hill on the upper section?
No idea on the "wobble" once smooth unless you are putting too much pressure on it.
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"I became insane, with long intervals of horrible sanity." - Edgar Allan Poe
 
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John Cepko
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #3 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 11:02am
 
Sharper than sharp tools, high lathe speed, and light delicate cuts are what I use with soft, or punky, woods prone to tear out.
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Al Wasser
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #4 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 3:02pm
 
For me pine cuts very clean but some of the other softwoods like fir, spruce etc are more troublesome.  Are your sure it is pine.  Cut down hill with a sharp tool and it should cut clean if it is pine and you don't have some punky spots.
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jimmy russell
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #5 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 4:18pm
 
please recomend a video that discusses this uphill downhill stuff...i think this might be the problem, but I cant get my head around it ....thx for all the comments btw
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Ed Weber
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #6 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 4:27pm
 
This should help
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jimmy russell
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #7 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 4:31pm
 
thanx a mil
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Don Stephan
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #8 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 5:16pm
 
Uphill/downhill is somewhat like rubbing an animal's fur - with or against.

You might find helpful Youtube videos by Mark Silay on slicing wood.  Coincidentally I've been reviewing the first couple this week as I have been turning spindles.
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Mike Mills
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #9 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 5:17pm
 
jimmy russell wrote on Oct 13th, 2017 at 4:18pm:
please recomend a video that discusses this uphill downhill stuff...i think this might be the problem, but I cant get my head around it ....thx for all the comments btw


Here ya go.... Stuart Batty is one of my favorite teachers.
Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register

He has about 30 instructional videos at Vimeo including, but not limited to...
Cutting into end grain and grain direction.
Grain direction spindles.
Grain direction bowls.
Grain direction curly & burl wood.
Tapered End Grain on bowls/platters and grain direction (parts 1 & 2)
Tapered End Grain on spindles and grain direction.

Should be a good introduction  Roll Eyes
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jimmy russell
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central machinery 10 x 18
Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #10 - Oct 13th, 2017 at 6:10pm
 
thanx...
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Mike Mills
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #11 - Oct 14th, 2017 at 10:20am
 
as far as the wobble...
Two possibilities, first the work surface was not completely flat or slightly concave for the face plate to seat against.  Any amount of the work surface  being convex will induce a wobble pretty quickly.

Second, and to me most likely, is because the screws are going into endgrain.  With the soft wood any catch or undue pressure may cause the screws to smooze in the wood.  Rather than going into endgrain I would use a 3/4 -1" thick section of sidegrain to attach the faceplate to.  Turn a tenon on your work first then turn a recess in you new faceplate to glue it into. A snug fit and good glue should keep it running true and just part off the faceplate block at the end.
Keep the tailstock in place as long as you can.
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robert baccus
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #12 - Oct 14th, 2017 at 8:00pm
 
Or forget the tenon and CA thick glue the glueblock to the vase and be turning in 15 minutes.
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robo_hippy
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Re: heeeeeeelp......pine always tearing....
Reply #13 - Oct 19th, 2017 at 12:32pm
 
I looked at this a few days back, and a couple of other times. My guess is that that side of the wood is more rotten than the other side, which is why you get the difference in cutting results. I have had pieces similar with big leaf maple. I can cut a straight spindle with fair results, but cutting down through it, I get those holes. Rotten/punky....

robo hippy
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