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Chuck This? (Read 1,355 times)
 
Don Stephan
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Chuck This?
Oct 21st, 2017 at 2:04pm
 
Might be fun to see how creative we can be. 

Nothing came of it, but I was asked if I could turn a mandrel or roller 14" long, 5" in diameter, the ends slightly tapered, with a 1/2" diameter centered hole the length of the piece.  As drill bits have been known to wander, my thought was to make a 3/8" x 3/8" dado centered on one face of a 15" x 5 1/2" x 3" board, glue a board to it covering the dado, then carefully rip to make a 15" x 5 1/2" x 5 1/2" glue up with the dado centered.  Most often I've read of matching g halF dadoes in two boards, but then there is always the need to keep the two half dadoes perfectly centered as clamps are tightened.

The question then is how to hold this in the lathe and turn round.

After quite a bit of head scratching I came up with one method, and I'm wondering what other approaches the collective can offer.

My idea was to grab one end in a large set of chuck jaws, with the 4 corners between opened jaws, and support the other end with a large cone center in the tailstock.  I was hoping the far end would have little wobble so that I could turn a dovetail tenon that would be well centered on the 3/8" square dado.  With smaller jaws I was going to reverse the blank, still using the large cone center in the tailstock, and complete the turning.  Then I was going to drill the center to 1/2" diameter with a long bit off the lathe.

Can anyone dream up another approach?
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Mike Mills
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #1 - Oct 21st, 2017 at 5:10pm
 
I would use a 1/2" cove bit in a router and do as you stated.
Make over length and glue in a 1/2" dowel when you glue up.
An inch deep should be fine and leave at least an inch outside to chuck up.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #2 - Oct 21st, 2017 at 7:16pm
 
It really depends on how many pieces you want to glue up.
2 pieces, use a 1/2 core box router bit.
4 pieces use a 1/4" cove bit.
I would make a staved cylinder (stave count isn't important) leaving approximately 1/4"-3/8" center (pilot) hole. once glued and cured, the drill bit will want to follow the pilot hole.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #3 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 10:20am
 
I know a router can make a round 1/2" hole for glueup but it's always been my experience that wood slips at a glue joint during glueup, and it is extremely difficult to PERFECTLY align pieces of wood while clamping.  Hence my thought to eliminate slippage as a problem and use the square hole to guide a drill bit for what should then be a perfectly straight round hole.

My interest remains in how to chuck the glued assembly, whether it has a square or round hole.  A protruding 1/2" dowel could be centered in a reverse live center cone on the tailstock, but I'm now sure how to chuck and drive a protruding 1/2" dowel - I'm not aware of any jaw set for my Vicmarc 120 that will grip a 1/2" dowel.
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David Moeller
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #4 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 11:05am
 
Turn a dowel to fit your chuck and step one end to a snug fit in the workpiece.
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Mike Mills
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #5 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 11:11am
 
I was only assuming that the thickness of your stock would negate the wood being squeezed out of shape.  My assumption was that a dowell in each end (maybe 1.5" long) would align the hole over the length.

My chucks (Nova and Hurricane) hold down to 1/4" or less depending on the chuck and jaws.  If you do not have jaws available I would suggest maybe..???
Turn a waste block for your chuck jaws about 1.5" thick.  Once mounted with a tenon in the chuck drill a 1/2" hole about an inch deep.  Your "dowel" can now be glued into the block held by your chuck.  Just a possibility.
Or you could do the same with a face plate rather than your chuck.
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« Last Edit: Oct 22nd, 2017 at 11:13am by Mike Mills »  

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David Moeller
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #6 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 11:13am
 
Turn a dowel to fit your chuck and step one end to a snug fit in the workpiece.
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David Moeller
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #7 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 11:16am
 
Dang! I'm still Befuddled by these newfangled confusers. I'll prolly double send this too! Shocked
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #8 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 12:29pm
 
Don Stephan wrote on Oct 22nd, 2017 at 10:20am:
I know a router can make a round 1/2" hole for glueup but it's always been my experience that wood slips at a glue joint during glueup, and it is extremely difficult to PERFECTLY align pieces of wood while clamping.


If going the router bit route, I dill holes and insert alignment dowels at the corners to eliminate movement during glue up. They get turned away when forming the cylinder.

Don Stephan wrote on Oct 22nd, 2017 at 10:20am:
My interest remains in how to chuck the glued assembly, whether it has a square or round hole.  A protruding 1/2" dowel could be centered in a reverse live center cone on the tailstock, but I'm now sure how to chuck and drive a protruding 1/2" dowel - I'm not aware of any jaw set for my Vicmarc 120 that will grip a 1/2" dowel.


I would use a collet chute to drive the 1/2" dowel.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #9 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 6:03pm
 
Gained a couple insights today, thanks.  I'll have to see if someone at the Cincinnati turning group can show me collet jaws in person.  I should have thought about turning a short piece with a dovetail at one end, then turn a 1/2" stub tenon at the other end.  Duhhh Don!  (I can say that to myself when it's appropriate here can't I?)
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #10 - Oct 22nd, 2017 at 6:35pm
 
Don Stephan wrote on Oct 22nd, 2017 at 6:03pm:
I'll have to see if someone at the Cincinnati turning group can show me collet jaws in person.


Not collet jaws, Collet Chuck, many, many uses.
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I have the PSI chuck, (I have an adapter for my spindle thread) I use it in both the headstock and tailstock. Personally, I wouldn't be without one.
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George Stratton
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #11 - Oct 23rd, 2017 at 10:59am
 
Being an ex metal worker, I probably would have cut the grooves in the two halves with a router and cove bit and then glued the two halves together over a 1/2 inch steel rod(ace hardware) coated with a rubbing of Vaseline, turned the part and pulled the rod out afterwards?? Leave it short on one end for the live center and protruding on the other to fit the lathe chuck??
Just a dumb thought?
Geo.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #12 - Oct 23rd, 2017 at 1:35pm
 
To add to Georges method (which is a good one) you can buy 1/2" Diameter UHMW Round Rod for about $2 a foot. Glue doesn't stick to it, making it great for glue-ups such as this.
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Glenn Roberts
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Re: Chuck This?
Reply #13 - Oct 23rd, 2017 at 9:20pm
 
What would be wrong with drilling the hole first, in an oversize width piece, as long as there is at least 2.5" radius where the drill pokes through the other end? Wouldn't matter if the drill wanders (?) Then run 1/2" rod thru, using drill chucks to hold each end. if there isn't enough friction on the rod to hold the piece for turning, make a face plate with a set screw to clamp on the rod. What am I missing?
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George Stratton
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Old Delta 12" 46-701 in great condition. Had it about 20+ years and turned 1 part.
Re: Chuck This?
Reply #14 - Oct 25th, 2017 at 11:58am
 
Chances are that the hole is not just skewed off center but actuall curved when the drill bends!!. Makes for a bad bearing hole?
Geo.
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