My videos are old enough that I can't remember them well any more...

The 45/45 is the same as Stuart's 40/40, which he says can not be duplicated with a jig. So, platform at 45 degrees, and sweep and roll to the sides just past the mark/line which is at 40 degrees. He rolls it a bit past horizontal or level, I think anyway. I was mentoring and the student bought his gouges with him which were all jig ground, and to me, his wings were much more acute/pointy than mine. Stuart says his wing bevel is the same as the nose, which would make that true, but some thing I had not noticed.

The 'secondary' bevel is a strange concept to me because it is not a bevel that is used. I just round mine over free hand on the wheels rather than setting a separate angle, which takes too much time to me. The reason for this 'relief' is so that the cutting edge is closer to the bevel rubbing spot on the inside of a bowl or any convex surface. With a concave surface, there is no difference in the rub spot, no matter which bevel angle you use. I round over rather than second or third bevels to remove any sharp edge. Any sharp edge can and will leave marks.

Perhaps the most difficult skill I had to learn was the proper bevel rub, which is no pressure at all on it. Brute strength comes in handy on heavy scraper use for stock removal on bowls, but it is terrible for finish cuts. The lighter that bevel touch is, the smoother and cleaner your cuts are. Still working on perfecting this cut...

Next video out will be about shear scraping. The shooting is done and camera man is editing. I only use scrapers for this, and only V10 or M42HSS for my tools (Doug Thompson and Dave Schweitzer/ D Way tools). Far superior to M2HSS. I am really liking burnished burrs, which is on my sharpening video, and I talk a little about it on this one.

If by any chance you will get to Portland for the Symposium, I will have a double space with a lathe for demonstrating, and hopefully some hands on time as well.

robo hippy

John Grace wrote on Nov 7^th, 2017 at 7:43am:

Correct

John Grace wrote on Nov 7^th, 2017 at 7:43am:

This is the grind I settled on over the years as my "standard" bowl gouge grind. I had to go out to the shop and measure it since I never remember what it is. The grind is what some may call a type of  transition grind. I have noticed it is very similar to the Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to or , who knew.

John Grace wrote on Nov 7^th, 2017 at 7:43am:

For this type of cut I currently use a standard 1/2" Thompson U-flute. As you see in the photo the wings are not too long, wing length will change with flute shape. (when using the same grind) Wing length is approximately 5/8" for the U flute and 3/4" on the V flute. This works well for me since I use the wing for shear cutting. I don't have a parabolic fluted gouge yet (supposed to be good for this) but that may be my next gouge purchase.
Remember, this is just what works for me, also just about all brands of gouges have slightly different shaped flutes regardless of what they call them. not all U's are the same, etc..

robo_hippy wrote on Nov 7^th, 2017 at 1:57am:


Reed...I found this old post from you on the AAW site from several years ago...do you still concur with what you wrote?

I seldom use my swept back grind gouges any more. Maybe I should go back and try them some more. It is probably more due to my turning style rather than the 'usefulness' of the tool. I turn at the end of the lathe (sliding headstock). Most of my roughing is done with scrapers. I hold my tools level with little or no handle dropping. I prefer more open flute designs and really don't like the real V with a pointy bottom at all.

Why don't I use the swept back design? Well, the wings are the biggest difference, and work fine for a shear cut on the outside more than the inside with a dropped handle. With a level handle, you get the high shear angle with the nose, and do most of the cutting there rather than with the wings. I can do all the 'shear scrapes' with my scrapers, which just feel better to me. The wings have no advantage for my roughing cuts as the scrapers just out preform them. I can use any nose profile on my scrapers, but prefer the 'inside' scrapers, which if you look at them are swept back like 1/2 of a swept back gouge.

If you are going through convex and concave shapes on your bowls, a short bevel and a more blunt bevel angle will work better, and again, here I hold the tools level.

V flutes are used more for pull type cuts with the handle down, and the wing being the main cutting surface being used. The nose has a very small area for cutting, and for being held level, it is pretty much worthless for the cuts I use.

robo hippy

Burnish marks or bruising usually only occur if you're pushing too hard and/or the curve is too tight . This is why where see people having trouble with the transition area of bowls. The heel of the tool can make contact and in turn, make the tip rise out of the cut. The "secondary bevel" isn't really a bevel but rather a relief cut (removing the heel) allowing the ability to have good bevel contact on tighter curves and with less potential for bruising.

Arlin Eastman wrote on Nov 7^th, 2017 at 6:36pm:


Just as every piece of wood is different, so is every turner. Becoming competent or mastering a skill doesn't come from repetition.
Building skills comes from what you learn from each instance (bowl) and then how well you can apply what you've learned to the next until you are skilled enough that you no longer need "practice". It could take 50 bowls, it could take 100 bowls or it could take 10. Everyone is different.
JMO

Next question:  With the understanding that all of these terms have an inherit level of subjectivity...does anyone know if the Henry Taylor 'super-flute' gouge is their version of the parabolic flute?

Ed Weber wrote on Nov 7^th, 2017 at 9:59am:


Appreciate that we all have our own preferences but your comment has made me think of something.  When I switched from using carbides exclusively to predominantly traditional tools, I struggled with the grind angle question.  Basically...before I started experimenting with different grind angles as I see so many others do, I wanted to become reasonably competent at one commonly-used angle.  My thinking being that if I became competent at the one then I'd be able to judge the quality of my cuts and their 'safety' before beginning experimenting...minimizing the variables as it were.

Anyways, after much research, I settled on a 40 degree angle on my gouges and it's worked well.  Granted...that's on a relatively inexpensive gouge with a very deep v-groove.  Again...I being of the sort that wanted to become competent at my platform sharpening before $20 of Doug's steel ended up on the garage floor.

To all:  is there a common grind angle for executing the push cut or is it again left simply to personal preference?

WOW...thanks Ed, that is a wealth of information.  While reading it occurred to me that I have a 3/8 gouge that rarely if ever sees any action.  I think I just found my sacrificial testing tool.  If nothing else, based on the number of comments and reads it appears I did start an interesting thread.