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Crack filling (Read 2,063 times)
 
Bruce Kamp
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #15 - Dec 10th, 2017 at 11:31am
 
Had some success. Here is a pic of a rough piece of the white oak I am working with. I used brown sand and epoxy to fill a crack. This shows two different mixes. One on left is just brown sand the other is a mix of light brown and brown sand and epoxy.
I also applied a coat of natural colored Danish oil.
Of course, not an eaxact match because of the grain, etc. Hoever, I do think it does a decent job of blending.
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #16 - Dec 10th, 2017 at 11:32am
 
This is what I used.
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Daniel Hayes
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #17 - Dec 10th, 2017 at 1:09pm
 
Wouldn't sawdust be easier on your tools?  I'm very new at this whole woodworking thing but this seems odd.
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« Last Edit: Dec 10th, 2017 at 1:11pm by Daniel Hayes »  
 
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Glenn Roberts
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #18 - Dec 10th, 2017 at 7:16pm
 
Sand?
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #19 - Dec 10th, 2017 at 8:38pm
 
It is synthetic sand. Not as hard on the tools.
Sawdust does not give the same effect. Al least the times I have tried it.
For the initial smoothing I will sand it, not turn it. I will rough turn, fill void, sand then fine turn.
I have also been trying some of the colors for special effects. I will show some pics when get a more finished piece.
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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #20 - Dec 24th, 2017 at 2:25pm
 
I made these segmented maple bowls for my grandsons. One is a baseball player the other a swimmer. I first Dremeled out the image and then filled it with black synthetic sand. Added thin CA. Then sanded it smooth. Finish is poly. It looks like magic marker but it is actually inlay. I have tested other colors with both CA and epoxy and they seem to hold their color.
I have also used the sand on other projects where I have had to turn the sand. I am not sure what it is made of but it actually turns something like resin. I will try to post a picture of the sample board I created.
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David Hill
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #21 - Dec 25th, 2017 at 7:59pm
 
Oooooh—— be careful with that!! Shocked
If it’s silica sand, throw it out or use it in a terrarium.  Silica (quartz) is REALLY hard, getting close to some metals.  At that it’ll at dull or destroy the edge on your tools.  Your first clue wiil be sparks—- then it’s too late.  Sad
I’lll say that came from the “been there, done that” file.
Sometimes you can find other sands — say calcium based & those are ok—> softer. Another that comes to mind is dyed Howlite.
Hope I saved your tools!  Undecided
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Don Stephan
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #22 - Dec 25th, 2017 at 8:09pm
 
Is silica dust harmful to the lungs?
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Jurriaan Kalkman
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #23 - Dec 27th, 2017 at 5:58am
 
The safe answer is YES, you should consider any dust harmful. Silica dust certainly is.

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Bruce Kamp
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #24 - Dec 31st, 2017 at 3:45pm
 
I really do not think it is silica sand. I do not see sparks. Plus, when I do grind it it sort of peels off like resin.
So far this has worked. I usually do not apply it until I am close to a finished profile. I use 40 grit sanding disks to level it off and then either finish with a fine cut or continue sanding through the grits. When I do have to do any cutting I try to use and old scraper. I do have to sharpen it more often than normal of course.
I just thought that this gives me another form of enhancement.
Thanks for all the advice and comments.
Bruce
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Rick Caron
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #25 - Jan 16th, 2018 at 12:00pm
 
Which glue sands easier,  CA or  epoxy?       CA seems to take awhile to sand down.  Haven't tried  epoxy.    I also stopped by  a locksmith shop and got a good sized bag of key shavings.  Anyone tried those?
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David Hill
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #26 - Jan 25th, 2018 at 6:18pm
 
Rick Caron wrote on Jan 16th, 2018 at 12:00pm:
Which glue sands easier,  CA or  epoxy?       CA seems to take awhile to sand down.  Haven't tried  epoxy.    I also stopped by  a locksmith shop and got a good sized bag of key shavings.  Anyone tried those?


I use a lot of both.  The epoxy sands easier in my opinion.  As for which I use--when? depends on the size of the defect I'm filling.  Small cracks/defects usually CA with the inlay material.
Haven't tried key shavings, but I suspect that the hardness of the metal may make sanding more difficult.
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Everyday liberating nice things from ordinary chunks of wood---and I like gnarly wood, the outcome is nearly always better than the start.
 
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StefanoBastianelli
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #27 - Jan 29th, 2018 at 10:33am
 
Bruce Kamp wrote on Dec 7th, 2017 at 10:01pm:
Jmmy sells his sand for about $10/oz. I went to Hobby Lobby and bought 1.5 pounds of color synthetic sand for $2.50. It is very fine. I have tested it and it seems to have color all the way through. Going to experiment some more and will report back.
Not sure I will get what I am after as far as a match goes but may get some interesting effects.


Did the same and it worked well. Also if you need a finer sand, more like a powder, you can put it in a coffee grinder.
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Dirk Hoogendoorn
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Re: Crack filling
Reply #28 - Feb 7th, 2018 at 8:52pm
 
personally I have small test tube containers filled with different wood sawdust or sanding dust that I collect, the lighter wood up here is Ash, I have, Cherry, Maple, Black Walnut as well, try to get a lighter colour than the bowl wood is because it always darkens up then mix it in with the epoxy and if necessary add in some lighter wood dye.
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