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CA and spalted wood (Read 724 times)
 
Jenny Trice
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CA and spalted wood
Jan 5th, 2018 at 8:42am
 
I am working on a bowl made from spalted birch.  I rough turned it, did a DNA soak and had it in a bag for a few weeks.  Now it is out of the bag and daily weights indicate it is pretty dry so I am ready to finish turn it.  Typical of spalted wood, it seems to need a little stabilization/fill.

My question here is the use of CA glue.  I am not a big fan of CA because I have some sensitivity to it.  However, it seems like the right thing for this purpose.  I have read about people taking the thin CA and coating a surface to stabilize it. 

Can someone give me more detail about the procedure of using CA for this application.  I'm assuming this is applied on the lathe?  How deep does it penetrate?  One or multiple coats?  When is the best time to apply it, when almost finished or before final turning?  How long should it be left to dry?  Does it totally fill the small 'holes'?  Any other thoughts or suggestions?  Alternatives to CA for this purpose?

Thanks in advance for your shared wisdom  Smiley
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Al Wasser
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #1 - Jan 5th, 2018 at 10:51am
 
If you go to CA you will probably have finish it with CA due to the staining that happens if you only spot treat it.  Before going to CA try some cheep rattle can lacquer.  Spray it heavily and let it dry.  Then use a sharp gouge and pretty high speed to get it to the point that sanding will do the job.  You may need to treat it more than once.
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robo_hippy
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #2 - Jan 5th, 2018 at 11:22am
 
A lot can depend on the particular piece of wood. If the cuts from when you roughed it out are fairly clean, then I wouldn't worry about stabilizing it. Spalting, which is part of the process of turning good wood into compost, stops when the wood is dry. If tear out is pretty minimal, some times just doing several coats of 'Danish' type penetrating oils can help enough. There is a product called Cactus Juice which is a stabilizer, but I don't know anything about it. There is MinWax wood hardener which is a penetrating type product which also helps, and you need several coats until it stops sucking it up. Most of these will darken the color of the wood.

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robert baccus
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #3 - Jan 5th, 2018 at 9:49pm
 
Those commercial stabilizers really (edited out) in my opinion.  Mix some poly resin (think fiberglass work) with hardener and thin with acetone to almost watery. Place in a Vinyl bag with your roughed out piece and play shake and bake several times in a day.  It will harden overnite and will not change the color and cut like new wood.  The mix will penetrate the soft wood thouroughly and cut, sand and finish like new wood.  Done dozens this way.
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Jeff Jackson
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #4 - Jan 6th, 2018 at 9:21am
 
I usually thin some epoxy with either acetone or Denatured alcohol water thin then slather it on then let dry overnight.
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Jeff Vanden Boogart
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #5 - Jan 6th, 2018 at 9:46am
 
I've used (West System) epoxy.  In their latest news letter they debunked the claims of "penetrating epoxies".  Those are mostly solvents.  The solvents soak in the epoxy does not.  Pretty much the same for thinning their own epoxy.  Almost nothing gained by thinning.
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Jennifer Hasan
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #6 - Jan 6th, 2018 at 1:00pm
 
I turn almost exclusively spalted maple. West System epoxy/resin is the best I've found. No need to thin. Apply generously and wait several days to fully cure.
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Jenny Trice
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #7 - Jan 7th, 2018 at 8:02am
 
Thanks for the comments.  For you epoxy users, when do you apply it?  After finish turning, before sanding?  On the lathe or off?
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Ed Weber
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #8 - Jan 7th, 2018 at 11:00am
 
Jeff Vanden Boogart wrote on Jan 6th, 2018 at 9:46am:
I've used (West System) epoxy.  In their latest news letter they debunked the claims of "penetrating epoxies".  Those are mostly solvents.  The solvents soak in the epoxy does not.  Pretty much the same for thinning their own epoxy.  Almost nothing gained by thinning.


Do you have a link to this?
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Arlin Eastman
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #9 - Jan 7th, 2018 at 3:34pm
 
Jenny

If you go the way of CA and I use it as well then use this company which has the thinnest CA over all of them.
All CA goes by "CP" or centipoise or the Viscosity and theirs is CM02

If you get it by the 16oz it only cost $45 which is a great savings and it also comes with 4 two OZ bottles and the thin applicators.  I also get the spray can of activator since it does evaporate and I hate when the suction feed one goes out.

Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register

Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register


Hope this helps you some.
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Jennifer Hasan
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #10 - Jan 7th, 2018 at 7:41pm
 
I get the best possible finish with tools. Next I sand with 100 grit. (If you sand with 40-60-80, it will hurt more than help.) I then apply the epoxy resin with a paintbrush. I set it aside for a few days. When it is fully cured, I start sanding as usual.
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Don Stephan
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #11 - Jan 8th, 2018 at 8:27pm
 
Jenny

To help me understand, after the epoxy cures, are you sanding off all of the epoxy, to the full depth of pores and areas of tearout, just sanding until smooth and top coating (using the epoxy as a pore and tearout filler, and first coat of finish) or some other process?
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Jeff Vanden Boogart
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #12 - Jan 8th, 2018 at 8:47pm
 
Ed Weber wrote on Jan 7th, 2018 at 11:00am:
Jeff Vanden Boogart wrote on Jan 6th, 2018 at 9:46am:
I've used (West System) epoxy. In their latest news letter they debunked the claims of "penetrating epoxies". Those are mostly solvents. The solvents soak in the epoxy does not. Pretty much the same for thinning their own epoxy. Almost nothing gained by thinning.


Do you have a link to this?



Here you go, Ed.  Multimedia File Viewing and Clickable Links are available for Registered Members only!!  You need to Login or Register

The magazine is free by request, and has some good info about all kinds of projects, from boat building to skateboard repair.  Plus technical stuff.  They've got a youtube channel too.
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Ed Weber
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #13 - Jan 8th, 2018 at 10:31pm
 
Thanks Jeff, I appreciate it.
I was at the right site but couldn't locate the right article  Embarrassed

I was going to mention one thing about using Epoxy, there are many formulas designed for different situations.
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Jennifer Hasan
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Re: CA and spalted wood
Reply #14 - Jan 8th, 2018 at 10:50pm
 
Hi Don,

I use the epoxy to fill tear out, cracks and pores. I put espresso grinds in the epoxy to darken it.

I don't want anyone to "see" the epoxy but rather mistake the epoxy for dark zone lines. This requires a fair amount of sanding but I never sand off all the epoxy.

Jenn
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