All. Just wondering if there is anything else that is gritty like Yorkshire Grit that is used.
I'm not having good results with Walnut Log. Ordered early Nov. but no product and can't get a response from him. Email and phone call.
Maybe will order from the UK. I like the grit with resin.
Thanks,
Lee         

Rottenstone should also work as the grit in your rub.

Lee,
I am having the same problem that you are with the Walnut Log.Placed on order online 11/11 and still have not received it, three emails and one phone call to him with no response!! 

[quote author=436C6F6F564E607D7D667A090 link=1543341185/5#5 date=1543391499]I am not sure if there is a supplier available over your side of the world, however you will find that this product is very similar to the Yorkshire Grit
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In addition to Yorkshire Grit and Triple-EEE Ultrashine, there is a US-made product called Dr. Kirk's Triple EEE that is sold by Craft Supplies.

Thanks all on this. I will look into all of them.
I wrote Yorkshire Grit with my complaint and anyone else having problems should also. This might push them into having other dealers.
Thanks, Lee

Here is a link to a video by Daniel Vilarino back in '17; he also had one back in 2015.
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You can buy pumice and rottenstone from a lot of woodworking stores or from Amazon.
I still have quite a bit left over from back in the 80's when I was more energetic.

I've been doing some research into these products and this is what I've come up with.
These is MY conclusions.
For years, people have been experimenting with better ways to sand wood. Starting with basic dry sandpaper, then serated paper, then wet sanding (various liquids) then wax sanding and every combination possible of all of these methods.
Today we have readily available products which consist of,
Mineral oil (lubricant)
Abrasive (sanding particles)
Wax (suspends sanding particles)
When these products are used, the wax suspends the abrasive particles evenly throughout the compound. The oil reduces friction and viscosity, making it easier to sand with less heat build up. The abrasives sand the surface smooth.

While working these products on the wood, the sanding dust that usually filled the air now creates a sort of slurry that gets embedded into all the small surface pores giving a smooth to the touch surface.

When you're done and the surface is wiped clean what's left is a mineral oil treatment (not a finish) with a extremely fine wax film (almost non existent)

The molecules of the mineral oil penetrate the wood and soak in, the wax and abrasive particles do not and are typically wiped off the surface. Most of the product used is now on the application and/or buffing rag.

Don Stephan wrote on Nov 29^th, 2018 at 12:51pm:

100% agree

Since most all topcoats have some type of solvent in them, any minute amount of wax remaining is usually softened and either wiped away during top coat application, eliminating the problem. Or remains trapped in the top coat weakening the bond, this can lead to failure in the future.

For me, the "benefits" that some perceive from these types of products are not worth the potential consequences of a failed finish.

Just my two cents

I have been using Yorshire Grit a bit now and like it. BUT, i don’t like it as much on bare wood. It works better when used after a sanding sealer. That helps reduce the amount of mineral oil that soasks into the wood. Next point is that this product (and I only assume other sanding waxes) make a great base for friction polishes (which are waxed based).  If applying other finishes such as Waterlox or tung oil or lacquer, I would definately wipe the surface with a solvent like acetone...
I have a test piece which I shared earlier with a lacquer finish which so far is holding up just fine.