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Face plate screws. (Read 231 times)
 
Rick Caron
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Face plate screws.
Dec 7th, 2018 at 10:54am
 
I have 2 face plates. One is thicker than the other.  How deep should the screws go into the blank?  And what # screw should i use?
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Ed Weber
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #1 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 11:13am
 
Loaded question.
Depth depends on what wood you're working with. Deeper for soft woods than hardwoods.
What size screw depends on the type of hole in the face plate.
If it's a straight hole (no countersink) then the largest screw that will fit through the hole.
If it's a counter sunk hole you can go a size smaller, provided you have enough screws to secure the piece.
I suggest using all the holes in the face plate. If there are 6 holes use 6 screws, if there are 8 holes, use 8 screws.
If you want to provide some details on size & weight of the piece and diameter of the face plate you're using it would help.

I forgot to mention, use the proper screw for the hole. Don't use pan head screws in countersunk holes
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« Last Edit: Dec 7th, 2018 at 11:15am by Ed Weber »  
 
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Louie Powell
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #2 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 11:40am
 
Adding two points to Ed's very good summary:

1.  Don't use sheet rock screws.  They are brittle and can break.

2.  Drill a proper size pilot hole before inserting the screw.  If there is no pilot hole, the screw can bind, and either you will break the screw or bugger up the head so that you can't back it out.  In either case, getting the screw out without destroying the turning can be tricky.
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« Last Edit: Dec 7th, 2018 at 11:40am by Louie Powell »  

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robo_hippy
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #3 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 1:09pm
 
I have used galvanized decking screws for years, but gave up face plates a long time ago. I drill a recess in the top side of the blank with a big forstner bit and expand my chuck into that (2 5/8 bit for my Vic 150 I think it is....). Plenty of holding power. Depending on the size of the blank, I would want 4 screws minimum, for personal size bowls, and 8 or more for family size salad bowls. I would want at least 3/4 inch of screw into the wood. I almost never used pilot holes for the screws because I turned green wood and most of the time they sank in easily. Now, with a hard and dry piece of Osage, yes, you will need pilot holes. I have a video up here, or on You Tube about mounting things on the lathe.

robo hippy
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Glenn Jacobs
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #4 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 1:24pm
 
I use Lag Screws to secure my face plate. Pilot hole first as my wood is mostly dry. Also, screws go in easier.

Glenn J.
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Ralph Fahringer
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #5 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 1:31pm
 
Tried to put a face plate on a piece of Bubinga and snapped 3 screws before they got 3/4 of the way into the wood!!

Ended up having to drill holes around the broken shafts and then pry them out with a screw driver.

That was fun!! Roll Eyes

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Paul Grenier
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #6 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 2:40pm
 
Gave up using faceplates and  I turn everything between centers so that I can orient the piece to present the best visual balance before I turn either a tenon or a recess.
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Ed Weber
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #7 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 4:01pm
 
I usually dill pilot holes in harder species and wax the screws, much easier to remove them.
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Don Stephan
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #8 - Dec 7th, 2018 at 5:51pm
 
As I am turning green wood I often don't find a need for pilot screws.  But if I worry about snapping a screw I will drill pilot holes.  I am only using hex head sheet metal screws, #10.  They penetrate the wood easily, hold well, the thread extends the full length of the shaft, and the hex head lasts a long time.  The holes in the Oneway chuck are countersunk, so I use a washer with each screw.
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« Last Edit: Dec 7th, 2018 at 5:52pm by Don Stephan »  
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Bill Moschler
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #9 - Dec 8th, 2018 at 9:09am
 
I love turning on a faceplate.  But I do it mainly on dry wood and always with a mounting piece glued on to the blank.  And then I use screws that fit the faceplate holes and do not go through the mounting piece..
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Robert Fischer
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #10 - Dec 8th, 2018 at 9:35am
 
Bill Moschler wrote on Dec 8th, 2018 at 9:09am:
I love turning on a faceplate.  But I do it mainly on dry wood and always with a mounting piece glued on to the blank.  And then I use screws that fit the faceplate holes and do not go through the mounting piece..   

Interesting!   Good tip!
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Mike Mills
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #11 - Dec 8th, 2018 at 11:04am
 
I do about like Don and use Hex head sheet metal screws.  I use #12 but I'm sure
#10's will work fine.  Have not stripped a head or had to replace them in about 10 years.
If you have a touch of CDO, a foam strip to hold the individual lengths comes in handy.
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robo_hippy
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #12 - Dec 8th, 2018 at 12:19pm
 
Note on waste blocks, never use plywood, it will shear off if you have a catch.... I did leave some of the galvanized deck screws in for a day or two.... Big mistake, just like galvanized nails, a major pain to remove as the coarse surface tends to grab and not let go....

I had considered the turning between centers, but through experience, I can get the grain to line up the way I want if I cut the blanks out properly. Also, the way I rough bowls out, that is not a secure enough mount.

robo hippy
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Ed Weber
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #13 - Dec 8th, 2018 at 12:27pm
 
Bill Moschler wrote on Dec 8th, 2018 at 9:09am:
love turning on a faceplate.  But I do it mainly on dry wood and always with a mounting piece glued on to the blank.  And then I use screws that fit the faceplate holes and do not go through the mounting piece..


I do this often also,  Thumbs Up

Depending on your piece and turning style (how you part-off a piece) you can get many turnings from one interface blank or waste block. As Reed said, NO plywood, NO MDF, use common sense instead.
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Len Layman
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Re: Face plate screws.
Reply #14 - Dec 8th, 2018 at 3:37pm
 
Ralph Fahringer wrote on Dec 7th, 2018 at 1:31pm:
That was fun!!

You forgot the n't after the s Grin.  Been there done that.  Regretfully more than once. (slow learner)  Now I pre-drill the holes. Easier in and out.
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Len

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