robo_hippy wrote on Jun 14
th, 2019 at 10:13am:
Stuart did comment that with inside bowl gouges, or any gouge where you are going through a concave surface, you need to grind off all but about 1/8 inch of the bevel.
I think this mas much to do with you personal method/mechanics of turning.
How you present the cutting edge (by extension, the heel) of your tool determines what part and how much of the bevel will rub.
If you move through the transition with the flute closed (pointing at 3 o'clock) you may get more rubbing than if you have the flute opened up more (1-2 o'clock). This also depends on whether you cut at, above or below the center line.
When I'm moving through a concave area such as a transition from wall to bottom, I start with the flute pointing toward 3 (closed) and end up at the center with the flute aiming at 1 or even 12, almost totally open. I rotate the tool as I move through the cut, which means the heel moves as well.
Can I still get heel marks, sometimes I do but not often. That's what works for me.
I grind a single secondary bevel, I do not use a BOB gouge.
Just a different method of doing the same task.
Rick Caron wrote on Jun 13
th, 2019 at 12:47pm:
Would that stiffen the fibers?
You need some type of finish that dries hard. Many people use a thin coat of shellac or sanding sealer, which would not work under an oil finish.
You may have to reconsider your final finish, many times adding an oil-based finish to an affected area like tear-out will darken it dramatically.
All I can say is that if the area is already getting thin, you can't keep chasing it by different methods of shearing, cutting, or scraping. If the fibers are weak, the fibers are weak. Without writing it off totally, I would say you're at the point of one of three choices. Blend it in, hide it totally or embellish the area.
Good luck, keep us posted.